RichR

I'm sure you can tap into the 12V supply to the rear view mirror and stick a 5V voltage regulator in the roof lining. This is how I powered a mirror with an LCD screen in it (for reversing camera) on one of my Subarus. My version didn't have an autodimming mirror, but it was an option so the wiring was there (Subaru unlike VW Group tended to fit all the looms but just tape them up if not used). Thinking about it, that unit behind the mirror on the Enyaq has a camera, humidity sensor, rain sensor, sunlight sensor and probably other things like microphones in it - so there's probably a reasonable 12V supply up there. Just a matter of taking things off and finding it, then tapping into it. Or the supply to the makeup lights in the sunshades is another possibility. Or yeah, just run a cable up the A-pillar from the fusebox like many people do.

I've now got access to the VW training material on the heat pump - and sadly some of what I said before on this thread is incorrect. There is only one compressor - but it does have a variety of valves, heat exchangers and condensers to allow it to both heat and cool at the same time. I wrote a long summary on enyaqforums.co.uk - I'll maybe repost it here. Otherwise have a read of VW SSP document 881213. TL;DR: if you do mainly do journeys where a petrol/diesel engine struggles to get the cabin up to the temperature you want, a heat pump probably isn't worth it on an Enyaq. It's also most effective at temperatures around freezing, so if you don't drive much in winter then it also might not be worth it for you. For everyone else, it can reduce energy consumption to heat the car (particularly at higher speeds). The main source of heat is the motor and battery, but there's a 6kW PTC heater as well, same as non-heat pump cars. The PTC is only used when a sudden increase in temperature is demanded, or the motor and battery are stone cold. It has a variety of modes where it is able to make best use moving heat about - for example, in normal winter usage you'd maybe be drying the air and heating it. So it uses the expansion valve in the cabin to first cool intake air (to dehumidify it), then that same heat that's absorbed by doing that is used to heat the air again afterward to increase the temperature of the cabin air. Once the motor and battery are hot and the climate control settings aren't changed all heating and cooling is done by the single 5kW compressor in the heat pump system. In non-heat pump cars you've got a 5kW compressor to cool/dry and a 6kW PTC heater to provide heat. So to both heat and dry, you could be using a lot more power. There is a separate 6kW battery heating PTC - but as far as we know it's only used if you set a scheduled departure and are not connected to a charger. Apparently v3.0 software will enable pre-heating the battery whilst connected to a charger.

I guess early on they hoped to have both sides charging, but for some reason (cost? heat?) they didn't by the time the final parts were confirmed. However, you really should base your understanding of what is fitted to a car you're buying by a bit more than a single marketing photo. For example, I usually download and skim the manual of any car I'm thinking of buying so I can confirm it does do what I expect it to and make a note of things I want to find out more about. Also spend a bit of time reading owner's forums like this one to see what people don't like, or isn't what they expected. I have rejected several models of car because they do something in a way I don't think I could live with. Similarly these are things you should be checking when you take a car for a test drive - my wife and I had a list of things to check when we got to see an Enyaq for real (which included measuring the boot with a tape measure- don't want to spend £47000 and find we can't fit the dog crates in the boot for example!) Of course, I appreciate some people are probably more impulsive and buy without doing any research. But that's their choice - the information is freely available, you just have to take the time to read it.

Yep - and some people have done that on cars without the charging pack, and also to add pads that work better with oversize cases.

It shows two phones in the storage area, but doesn't actually state in the text that it'll charge two phones, just that phones can be charged. Nice and ambiguous - probably because that's a pre-production marketing slide, and no doubt the functionality hadn't been finalised.

To be fair, the Stellantis cars have a single bi-directional heat pump, which is cheaper but has disadvantages (not able to heat cabin and cool battery at the same time for example). The Enyaq has a PTC to heat the battery, a PTC to heat the cabin, a heat pump to cool the cabin (ie aircon) and optionally a heat pump to heat the cabin. From the horrendously complicated diagram I found in the workshop manual, it's possible both heat pumps are capable of cooling or heating the battery coolant system too due to heat exchangers in the system. But it's not that clear whether this is the case or not, so I wouldn't like to say for certain. It's be nice if there was some proper VAG documentation about how the heating/cooling system works in the MEB platform in the public domain, but sadly nothing I can find. I've got bits of the workshop manual that I downloaded from ErWin after a friend let me use their account for a 15 minutes before their 1 hour time slot was up, but not as much as I would have liked to have downloaded. Might have to pay myself and get some more bits

I do find it amusing that people would happily spend £1000 on red metallic paint, yet debate whether spending the same on something that probably will result in more efficiency (though to what extend depends on usage) is worth it. But this is why it's an option - on some makes you pay for a heat pump whether you like it or not (most Stellantis, Tesla etc), but Skoda/VW/Audi give you the option to omit it if you don't think it would be useful to you. Similarly I don't think red paint is useful to me so I chose not to have it.

You should remove the ISOFIX plastic bits first too as they hold the rear of the bench down. Also the plastic clips that hold the front edge down as TigerTony says are only designed to be used once. When you remove the seat from them, you're effectively breaking the plastic - so it needs a fair bit of force. Basically a sharp pull upwards to rip the plastic. If you're lucky the metal bits on the seat will pull out with only minor damage and they'll still hold it down just fine. If not, you'll need to buy new plastic clip bits as Skoda expect you to.

This has come up a few times on other Enyaq forums. I don't know where people got the idea from though, as no Skoda videos or literature I can find says anything about both sides being chargers. The best I could find is some salespeople and reviewers assumed both sides charge - despite only one having the Qi logo in it.

I looked into the cost of retrofitting the electric boot door to a VW Caravelle. Suffice to say that by the time I'd added up the cost of the parts (there's various sensors, switches, looms, different lock mechanism etc.), it was well over £1500, and that's before taking into account the time to dismantle a lot of the back of the vehicle to fit things there, plus the fusebox wiring and control module. So I didn't bother in the end. There are aftermarket boot openers which are used when converting cars to take wheelchairs that whilst looking a bit ugly do the job far more cheaply. But in the end I settled for just opening it manually...

Yes - on the Infotainment screen. Pin the 3x2 or 2x2 Driving Data panel. If you don't know how to edit the Infotainment screen, you can find details on the Skoda video manual website: https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/enyaq-videos

Realised I forgot to upload my car details despite having it for a couple of weeks now. Ordered Aug 15th, collected Nov 29th. Enyaq iV 80 Sportline Energy Blue, 125kW charging, Assisted Drive Plus, Transport Pack, Heat Pump, Infotainment Plus, Convenience Plus, Comfort Seat Plus. Really impressed with Energy Blue - suits the Sportline even more than I thought it would. Given we'd never seen a Sportline or Energy Blue Skoda before ordering! Not done any massive miles yet (about 250 miles since delivery), but am seriously impressed with the quietness, comfort and Travel Assist's ability. OK, it can't self steer reliably on twisty country roads or where there are ambiguous white lines, but on larger roads it really reduces the workload, and crawling in start/stop traffic is effortless. No issues with anything so far.

Heat pump models have R744 refrigerant shown on the label under the bonnet, non-heat pump models use R1234yf.

Many modern cars don't come with a spare wheel for various reasons. According to the AA, over 80% of drivers do not know how, or do not want to change a wheel themselves - so car manufacturers have removed them and included sealant, and provided drivers with breakdown cover on new cars instead. Gives more boot space and reduces weight which improves the economy figures. If there's no spare wheel, there's no need for a jack or wheelbrace to be supplied with the car. And in theory self seal tyres mean no need for compressor and sealant, but in practice it's not always up to the job. So most people opt to buy their own compressor and sealant for about £15.

Pre-heating means running the heater/aircon whilst plugged into the mains electricity supply. You can do this from the app, or from the Infotainment screen, and you can set schedules to heat/cool the car to a set temperature for a set time - ie if you leave the house every day at 8am to drive to work, you can have it pre-heat the car to 20C so that you can just unplug and set off. Very handy in the depths of winter as it'll melt all the snow and ice from the windows too. Most EVs have this functionality, you don't need a heat pump for it. You don't have to be plugged into the mains either, but obviously it'll use a bit of battery power -though not a lot. It's sometimes worth doing so you can get into a nice warm (or cool) car. It runs for longer when on mains power than when on battery, (30mins vs 10mins I think)