Name

Thank you for this. Most helpful.

Hello again folks. Never did sort out the dimmest of dim dipped headlights but now driving in Europe and having switched over to the right side dipping setting it's much better than the left side dipping as per the UK. Any thoughts there? But to the point of this post, I noticed a wet rear shock so need to change the pair. 'Autodoc' keeps appearing as the the No.1 supplier here though I'm sure I can find others but my question is this:- Listed are the following, RIDEX, DACO, STATIM, STARK, JP GROUP, DENCKERMANN, KAMOKA & VAICO. Which make should I opt for or any other brand? Following up this does my general loading/driving play a part in my choice, e.g. because the roads in the UK are, frankly, ****, I only use the supplied low profiles in Europe and I tow a trailer to and from France but when in either the UK or France I am rarely loaded and there are just two of us (bought the car because it's big enough for a good nights sleep)? Thanking all you fine Skoda lovers in advance for your informed, useful input. Shaun. Having just posted this I see the following listed on a UK site: KYB 335808 SACHS 311 346 KYB 325700 BILSTEIN 22-151070 MONROE G1057 BILSTEIN 24-172936 BILSTEIN 24-178006 MONROE G16497 SACHS 317 575 TRW JGT448T DACO Germany 454722 TRW JGM1032T BILSTEIN 19-151069 BILSTEIN 22-151056 MEYLE 126 623 0055

Noted. Thank you.

While it was opened up thought this may be useful:- https://youtu.be/ZN3x96wDr8Q

Looking forward to a response such as this. Thanks Soakd.

Members, Good day. Only the diesel filter left to change (attended to auto box, oil & filter + pollen filter). How much truth is there in having to fudge around with fancy gizmos after a diesel filter change or can I get away with ensuring that the container is full before reconnecting hoses? Best, Shaun.

Let this be a lesson to all fiddlers. This morning I left the intense reversing light LED's in place as I did the fog. Yes, these Canbus OK lights raise the instrument alarm but I'm OK living with that as I am the obviously not OK Canbus OK front Fog light LED's (bloody joke). I changed the brake LED's (yes, Canbus OK ..... ha) bulbs back to the standard 16w and, Presto, the entire setup functions as it should with black and brown powering sidelights and the red, dedicated brake. I have learned a lesson and while I hope other LED fiddlers learn about this before they fit towing harnesses I would like to thank all contributors to my plight. God Speed.

I will when I get to France and all my gear. Just want to get there 1st.

OK, so tomorrow, on account of I live with a permanent light warning despite all my new LED's being LED error Canbus Free (ha) I'll replace them with standard bulbs and see if the problem persists. If it does it's the relay? So sorry to be a pain and thanks again for all the help.

Right, done it and thanks again Derbyshire bod along with others. 'Done it' meaning that I pulled the back of the car to bits snapping off various plastic lugs in the process. I can only assume that the bloke that took his apart and made the video had done it so many times that all his plastic detente bits and clips were broken off and missing anyway. So to report upon my findings the relay box was tucked away and having removed it I have found that everything from the drawings and pictures supplied comply. The BLACK BROWN and GREY are not used and capped while the RED, YELLOW, GREEN, and BLUE are all connected correctly into the harness having followed Derbyshire bods rear light cluster picture and comparing it with my own, and wiring. The green, as was suggested, has been connected to an individual line leading to the driver side. I was disappointed that mine is also connected to the auxiliary 12 V socket in the back minus a fuse so I think when I put it all back together I will install the relay inside that that covered storage space along with a fuse holder so that in the event it all ****s the bed again I can change it without dismantling the car. So the verdict is that the relay is malfunctioning? Correct? I don't see how it works anyway with this sidelight and brake feed being common. EDITING: If it's a question of the relay recognising resistance have I unnecessarily taken the car apart because the cause is my fitting LEDs in these rear clusters? FYI harness black & blue goes to Blue (reversing light), grey & white to Green (fog) brown to 2 x Black (common), purple/grey (my eyes) & black to Brown (lights), black & red to Red (brake & lights) black & white to Yellow (indicator)

Gentlemen all and, now, Derbyshire bod, thank you. This is most detailed and informative. I feel better I feel better this morning and was going to attack the rear in the full knowledge what it requires having watched a video and made notes. However the weather is awful so I suspect this will have to be delayed. Once open I'll take photographs make my observations refer to these excellent notes and see where we go from there. To learn of a common brake and side light feed makes me feel better about the probability of the wiring from the source (front) being correct at least.

Chimaera I am happy to answer these questions with photographs when I get the back end open. As it is the weather is rubbish and I'm still suffering from Covid and feel quite knackered.

JR, Thanks. I understand this and might even be able to check this myself. I do live in fear that we might be looking at missing cables from the front to rear so will do this in stages checking the inputs and outputs from the box gubbins at the back. I have done a deal over the telephone with a local outfit such that I do the dismantling of the interior and they'll do the rest if I can't find the source of the problem.

Chimaera, Thank you. Regrettably I don't have VCDS and rather fear that if I did I would hit the wrong tit and bugger everything up. However, armed with this information I can visit a local trailer mob with it and let them know to do this testing first. Thanks again. Good weekend to you.

Done the service using using ECT 5 - 30. As is it I never stress engines until they are warm anyway and after changing the gearbox thermostat my oil is up to 65 before the junction a short distance down the road now and soon I'll be back in Spain.

Delboy, thanks and yes. This is what alerted me to my problem so I have now pullled the wires from the socket and did my tests so I know that 5 & 7 (sidelights) are dead while 6 (brake) is fed by brake & side! The rest are fine & correct. Now I have to dismantle the back left interior to see what's in there. But then I'm at a loss because I wouldn't know if the box (assuming there is one) is incorrectly powered or if correctly powered (wired up) the output side is incorrectly wired or if the box is buggered. I have never been down this route, 123 series Mercs being so simple (primitive).

I have tested the multicore cables supplying the tow socket. The bar and electrics were fitted by a Witter agency. EARTH, INDICATORS, REAR FOG & BRAKE all supplied from the correct cable to correct pins. HOWEVER, Black & Brown (7 & 5) are dead while Brake (red 6) is also supplying lights (side, full, etc). I can hear the audible indicator sound from the left hand side of the trunk and so assume that an approved box is fitted in the there. My question is would any of you know if the wiring cockup is likely to be from that box to the towing socket or between the box and its supply? Thanking you in advance.

Doc. Thank you for this. I'll get around to the tailgate lights and heed your advice. Yes useful as when we get back to civilisation (Europe) making sandwiches, etc. sitting at the back in the warm it helps seeing what ones doing and reading a book. As for the middle bulb, as you say, it's cold. I'll take a look tomorrow but I'm pretty sure that it doesn't or hasn't come on yet in my ownership! NB I'm concentrating on what lube oil at the moment. Just posted/posed the question on the forum. NB2 changing my gearbox thermostat has changed the car. Amazing.

Members, Not interested in anything other than Shell and only 5W-30 (not 0W-30). The only light shed on the matter of choice has been reducing the build up of deposits in turbochargers and intake valves through a difference in viscosity index improver polymer. The question is then - because I can't find an answer or sufficient information to enable making a choice - Shell Helix Ultra AV-L or Shell Helix ECT C2/C3 and why one is the better option for a 2012 Superb Tdi 170hp with 103,000 miles? Thanking you in advance for your experienced, knowledgable input.

Watched the video. Point taken and thank you for the lever info. Physical inspection reqd. Return to France soon so I'll do it then. Halogens out this weekend to test for buggered Xenons.

Dr, Did you receive notice that you had a levelling sensor fail or was it found by inspection/process of elimination? Your Osrams .......... you wouldn't have considered LED replacements?