Fcoayuso

Thanks so much for your detailed answers and for taking the time to explain it all. I need to get this fixed as soon as possible (MOT) and I think I will go for the J&R this time. I don't drive more than 4000 miles a year so i expect then to last a few years even though quality is not as good as the original. Also, I can get the parts in a day, so will help massively. The only thing I noticed is that the sell the pair of driveshaft for my car (Skoda Octavia 2010, Diesel Hatch 1.6 TDIF, WD II 1Z3 1598cc 77KW 105HP CAYC) for £82 which seems cheap to me compared to the £160 you mentioned.....hope I am getting the right ones....I will get new bolts as well and make sure I put threadlocker on them. Silly question, the driveshaft seems to have different lengths (website), I didn't notice it while looking under the car. Are the length of the shafts standard? I don't want to end up having to return anything or rushing getting other parts. thanks for your help, regards

My car failed MOT due to the driverside inner boot split....not sure whether the car still have the original driveshafts (second hand) so I am wondering whether I should replace the inner boot or just fit a new set of driveshafts. Would you recommend buying both driverside and passenger side and fit them both or just the faulty one? I was thinking on buying the J&R Driveshafts but based on your comments quality is not great. Cheers

Thanks for the quick response. Was hoping code will disappear after fixing the cables.... cheers

Hi, I had the same issue today, I put the broken wires back together and still the issue persists. Did it work for you before resetting the fault? Cheers

Hi, I had the same problem, and discovered that the brown and yellow wire were broken. I have connected then back together but the issue still persists. Do I need to clear the code? I was expecting to the airbag light to disappear after the connection was put back together. Cheers

Sorry, totally forgot the model, it is a 1z3 1.6TDI. Cheers! Thanks!

Hi there, My car is missing all the undertrays. I am wondering if someone could let me know how many there are. I am aware there is one for the engine, but not sure about others. Today I had a look at the vehicle and realised that some of the rust could have been prevented with the right undertrays fitted. Thanks for your help!

Thank you very much! Really appreciated

Thanks...this confirms my theory, no Halfords anymore... I live in Newcastle, but really no idea how I can figure out which business has a hunter rig.... hopefully someone can points me to one near by. Cheers!

Hi all, I changed the 4 set of tyres last year and when I took the car to do the 4 wheels alignment they only did it for the front tyres. I was told that my car Skoda Octavia MK2 can only be aligned for the front tyres not the rear one. This year, the car has failed MOT due to rusty rear suspension arm and when I took my car to the garage, they guys told me that the car would need a rear alignment. This got me thinking whether I need to get this sorted or not. Previous rear tyres were worn unevenly that's why I requested a 4 wheels alignment when new tyres were fitted. Any suggestions? Where should I take the car for the alignment? Previous one was done at Halfords. Thanks for your help.

Thanks, they are quite expensive, same price as some of the brake discs....but you are right, bikes dont have them and they work fine. Cheers!

Thanks! looking at the disc dust shield, they seem a bit corroded....could anyone say if it is necessary the replacement or its not necessary? Cheers

Hi all, I am set to change the front / rear brake discs and pads for my Skoda octavia but I am struggling to understand what kind of Disc brake and pad I need to buy. Checked eurocar parts entering the number plate, but there are serveral options with different fitment part numbers. How do i know which is the part number I have to buy. Could anyone provide some clarification? Thanks for your help.

I did not fill it with 4.3l, only 4 litres and the level after was over the dipstick mark...really weird. I would monitor the levels in the next few weeks and see if it is dropping or increasing. I do not have any diagnosis equipment....used to have an ob2 but it was useful. Thanks for your help!

The battle with the DPF is still on going. Took the car to the garage to resolve the limp mode and clear the dpf issue, but after that every 150-200mi the DPF light comes on again and makes me drive the car in the motorway until it clears.....but again, back to the routine (short trips) and the cycle continues....the only difference is that once the light comes on, I drive straight to the motorway I know this car does not suit my needs as I only use it for short trips, but I dont want to spend a fortune in a new dpf or buy a new car. The book history of the car looks good, it has been serviced every 10k miles. It is true that due to my low mileage use of the car, previous service was done prior COVID. Thanks for your help!

That's what it appears in the v5c... probably it is a CAYC but clearly it shows CA in the v5c... Just read few threads but not sure about if the year model cars are same as mine. It is true that my car's DPF is being a pain for the last few years, I mostly do small journeys in the city and only from time to time drive in motorways..... Anything you guys advise me to do? Cheers

The engine number is CAY 659686

Thanks for the response. I did use a extraction pump. To be honest I was going to drain it with the normal method, but when I saw that I extracted 5 litres thought that was more than enough.... rookie mistake....the dipstick mark was all cover, even over the mark as well which is something I don't understand because after refilling with 4 new litres I can see that the dipstick has oil over the mark as well. Will try again tomorrow after the school run.

How can I get the engine code? I have the VIN, but not sure how to get the engine code...

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone can help with a diesel oil engine for this car. Yesterday, I did the service myself for first time. Before that, I made sure that I had everything I needed and checked that this car has a 4.3l oil capacity including oil filter. My surprise is that after the extraction of the oil, I filled a 5 litre bottle and a bit more that needed to to to a milk bottle. How is this possible?? When filling the new oil, I put in 4 litres and after checking the dipstick, the mark was ok. I am kind of worry.....any suggestions? Was it overfilled? Do I need to put at least 4.3l? Thanks for your help, Regards

Can I actually force the full dfp to regenerate with this device?

Can you elaborate a bit more please? Model? Thank you

Hi all, First of all, than you very much for all the useful information posted in this forum. It is really helpful. Could anyone suggest any device that I can buy to do my own full regeneration of the dpf please? My style of driving involves lots start stop and short trips. I am sick of this problem and the bills to do a full regeneration at local garages. Thanks you for your help