RWI

Hello, Do you have in mind method with holding accelerator for 20s? I saw this method on youtube too but I am sceptical if it does anything at all. Do you have any issues with gearbox? In case of car equipped with kessy you have to press engine start button without holding brake pedal, this is equivalent of turning key once and it will turn ignition on. BR, RWI

I managed to resolve this issue by replacing steering column with another used unit, after driving for about a month everything is fine so far.

Hello, Few months ago I noticed sudden rpm rise (not much, around 100rpm), during gear change from 4 to 5. After several months of my DSG behaviur observation I have come to the following conclusions: This behaviour is quite rare, It happens only during gear change from 4 to 5 in D mode, Engine and gearbox have to be warmed up well, for example after driving on highway, There are no weird noises, shudder, vibrations etc. I found one video on youtube presenting similar behaviour but in VW Golf with DSG7: Anyone had similar issue? Is it clutch slip? Or mechatronics problem?

Hello. I did extensive investigation on this failure and it does not look good. Firstly let me answer @AGFalco questions: 1. It knocks the same on 0 degrees position as well as +/-360 degrees. At +/-180 degrees (steering wheel upside down) it knocks other way around, I have to pull steering wheel from left to right for it to make sound. 2. Yes it does this with the engine off, but I have to use much more force. 3. I can feel vibration mostly at top u-joint of an intermediate steering shaft and at a steering column gearbox housing. Another observation: When I push intermediate steering shaft slightly with my shoe noise stops. I went to 3 repair shops to diagnose where problem is exactly. First one, suspension specialist, told me suspension, steering rack and tie rods are fine. Second one claimed to disconnect intermediate steering shaft and still heard noise from steering column. Third one also told me noise is coming from steering column. Just to be 100% sure this is the case I replaced intermediate steering shaft with used one and it still knocks the same. Now I am sure steering column is faulty which is worst case scenario. This part is not repariable according to service manual and dealer. New part is not available even at dealer. if it was available it would be crazy expensive anyway, so I have to think about different solution. I basically have two options: used or remanufactured part. Now I have lot of questions regarding choosing a replacement. 1. How is it possible that according to manufacturer part is not repairable but remanufactured steering columns can be found on the market? I am thinking about TRW (which is manufacturer of OE steering column btw.) and ERA Benelux brands. 2. Anyone had any experience with second manufacturer ERA Benelux? It seems TRW JCR428 and ERA Benelux ESC3202 should fit my car. 3. Dealer told me only used parts with 6C1423510AD and 6C1423510BB markings will fit but it seems remanufactured parts mentioned earlier can replace steering columns with different part numbers too. For example JCR428 can replace following parts (from TRW website): Does it mean all parts with these numbers will fit my car? What last two letters mean?

Some time ago I noticed knocking sound. It sounds like it's coming from behind steering wheel. I can hear it in the cabin but not from outside. It happens only when stationary, when steering wheel is pulled quickly to the left from center position. From time to time it does not reproduce but most of the time it's here. Anyone had similar issue? Any guess what could it be?

Battery is 1 year old and I drive car regularly for 20-30min. at highway speeds to recharge it, so this was not a problem, hovewer your comment inspired me to do "hard reset". I disconnected both battery terminals. For safety measure I measured voltage on disconnected clamps, it was around 300mV. I waited several minutes for voltage to drop under 100mV and then I shorted clamps together with multimeter set to mA range (it has considerable internal resistance and is fused so it was not hard short circuit). I waited for a while to discharge capacitors in car modules to be sure that everything will reset. Then I reconnected battery and everything went back to normal! Only time, trip and fuel consumption were deleted, everything else is just fine. Alarm works just like before. This metod of "hard reset" was described by HumbleMechanic on YouTube. I did similar thing but with extra safety measures: I hope issue will not come back and someone will find this topic usefull in the future.

Thanks for your suggestion @nta16. I tried the following: Key resynchronisation according to users manual, I pulled out KESSY and central lock module fuses and waited for around 15 minutes before putting them back, Changing key fob batterry (mentioned earlier) , Opening trunk with spare key fob, Reading errors with ELM327, no errors found (not sure if such cheap toy would show me kessy related errors anyway) None of these things worked, it still acts the same. Does anybody know where kessy module is located? Are there any antennas or modules at the back of the car? I had minor paint job (scratches) done quite recently, rear bumper and tailgate trim were probably removed, maybe something was not connected back properly.

Hello, I have weird problem with opening and closing trunk using KESSY. Successful scenario should look like this: I approach locked car with key fob in my pocket, I open trunk with button located on tailgate, Alarm turns off, trunk opens but doors still remains closed, I close trunk and alarm gets immidiately activated again, I can go away from car. But since like two days opening trunk will cause alarm to deactivate, all doors are being unlocked and closing trunk won't reactivate alarm, scenario now goes like this: I approach locked car with key fob in my pocket, I open trunk with button located on tailgate, Alarm turns off, trunk and doors will open, After closing trunk nothing happens, I have to lock car with sensor in front door handle or button on the key fob. Interesting thing is that opening trunk with button on key fob works fine, alarm activates right after closing trunk. I tried to change key fob batterry but it didn't help. So it seems that opening trunk works just like opening front door with KESSY. Are there some kind of settings or something I could change earlier by accident? Did anyone had similar problem? Best regards, RWI