G-slave
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Posts posted by G-slave
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While I can't see any point in doing it, I think what you are looking for, is part of Adaptation Channels
Enjoy
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The 1.8t 180bhp had 1 smic. Same engine with 225bhp was fitted with 2 smics. (If my memory serves me right).
My point is, that it works well for standard application, even when driving in a spirited manner.
It has its limitation though, if you enjoy traffic light GPs, then yes, residual heat will start to affect the air intake temp and the me7.x ecus (as on the mk1 vrs), will start to pull back timing and add fuel to cool the combustion chamber. Result is a bit less torque (mentioning fuel consumption is irrelevant at this point)
If you ate going for a stage1 remap and you drive sensibly then I would argue you have done the right thing.
If you want to squeeze more bhp per drop and if you want to constantly and consistently hammer it, then a high quality fmic is the way to go.
Two ends of the scale, plethora of options in between
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Yes agreed, lows is for shows. Suspension needs travel in order to do what it is designed to do
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Any independent garage really. http://www.ksmotorswestbury.co.uk/services.html
Any good?
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Running the FK koningsomething, they are good to start with. I then lowered them, which makes the ride a little too hard and bouncy for my liking.
Having said that, the roll is virtually eliminated and on track they really shine.
Each to their own, also heard good review of slightly stiffer springs and standard dampers???
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It was down to a mechanic not putting enough oil in the gearbox the bearings over heated an come out the side NOT HAPPY £2500 later and it's still not fixed
I've noticed the exhaust is causing the problem it's hitting the steering rack so I went and got 2 brand new engine mounts vibratech ones and no change it never hit the steering rack before so what else could be causing it?? The dogbone it's going down at an angel and when I undo it the exhaust moves away from the steering rack.
Why could this be? I've turn the dog mount round an it's even worse. I'm out of ideas and don't wanna spend any more money until someone can tell me 100% what is wrong. I was told engine spacers but why should it need spacing if it never hit in the first place??
Please help
:wtf:I see you're in the same area as me (the mobile version of the site never showed me that)
Pm me with your address and whereabouts, see if i can drop by.
Don't drive the car for the time being I'd say. Do you get chatter when in neutral?
we can work this out. wish I still had my spare gearbox though, but they can be had for cheap
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Nice work pauldazzle re sticky
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To the OP, not sure what the term is, but essentially it is a smoke machine connected to a pressure pump.
The smoke is such that it takes time to reaxlct with oxygen, therefore it stays visible for a while and makes it possible to "see" a leak.
The cheap version is a smoke bomb (the ones used by chimney sweepers) and a tyre inflator, connected to your air intake (NOT YOUR MAF!!!).
Finally you need good lighting and torches.
Keep us posted
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So you say your issue is bad vibrations? I think you need to find a member in your area and get a second opinion.
For me, vibration is down to bushes, dogbone mount not being attached or loose bolts.
I have the dark side kit and am running 280bhp/torque, track days included. All fine, which makes me think your SMF and clutch are fine.
But yeah, you are coming from a DMF with an OEM box and you are now running SMF with recon box; that does change NVH levels.
And the clutch kit will bed in and smooth out.
keep an eye on your mpg as that will tell you if there is excessive friction. Things like brake distance too. Get another vrs owner to drive your car, drive an SMF equipped car...On a side note, how did you manage to pierce an OEM box? What torque did you put through that box?
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The smoke test is a must.
The way the engine works is by metering the volume of air coming in (by maf).
The air then gets pressurised by means of a turbo and is delivered -past the throttle - to the combustion chambers. There it mixed with fuel, which itself is metered in proportion to the air that was originally measured. Problem is that, somehow, the combustion process finishes with unburnt fuel. Too much fuel is left over. Or, not enough oxygen was available to complete the combustion.
Hence 2codes:
System too rich and
Pressure drop between turbo and throttle.
The lambda sensor (a probe on the exhaust pipe) has told the ECU it did not find any oxygen left in the exhaust gasses.
Rubber hoses become porous after while and those clever German engineers know that. The have added to the ECU (the car's CPU) has algorithms to compensate for deterioration and deviation
It's called Adaptation. The ecu can trim the fuel supply or even add a touch of fuel. Hence why the lamda sensor is so important.
But only to a certain point, so as not to mask a genuine issue with potential implications.
So as long as you drive sensible the ECU will compensate and allow you to operate the car, but, when you give it the beans, you exacerbate the issue and... computer says no (more).
A smoke test should reveal which pipe between the turbo outlet and throttle body is leaking. It is a fiddly job and a reason why most of us end up replacing them with uprated items.
Replacing the CTS is also a matter of course, though use a genuine item.
Sticky throttle body could be, although unlikely.
If all else fails, find a fellow brisky member with vag com and perform some logging.
Good luck and keep us posted
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What rubbing and where?
Your words:"something exploded causing rubbing in gear box" clutch and gearbox are not the same.
Clutch is a means to connect an engine with a gearbox. With that mileage, I would expect the clutch to die: it is made of friction plates, just like brakes.
A gearbox is a sealed unit. Containing cogs and oil.
So, what did your garage say and what has he put on paper? What garage is this?
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Thanks for reply. Got told the 02M was sooo much better. Though I can't find any evidence on this. And since 5speed works really well with 1.8T...
Clutch is a vr6/g60 combo. Think it is rated to 400nM. Time will tell
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Looking for people's experience
I have a quaiffe-diffed 02J box.
Have been running a K300 setup for last 2 years and seems to take abuse just fine.
My question is, does anybody know how much torque I can put through this setup?
Are the 02J boxes that much better? What torque are we talking about?
Tia
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Used to have an occ, but the random puff still happened. I'd say fit it, to see what you are catching, but my guess is that sometimes a valve sticks and allows for oil into the combustion
Keeps us posted, maybe this could prove worth a wiki?
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Hmmm.
My mk1 petrol is at 103k miles and I have observed the same: I noticed in the mirror that blue puff of smoke, but was sub 2k rev, creeping forward in traffic. Never an issue on overrun nor full throttle.
Just so sporadic
Does your engine bay smell of burnt oil? I too would be tempted to say it is a breathing issue but have no idea where to start
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No fuel
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Where are you based?
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Im tempted to take the day off to come watch n make some notes, want the car ready for the next outing
yeah and if you are done taking notes, get yourself a passenger bracelet and jump on board; Pm me if interested
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what is your budget?
ok so your car sits low when laden, then yes, you need to change the springs and shocks. the rest of your description, I'd go for good quality RUBBER bushes. makes the whole setup feel tight and working as one.
If you want to address the understeer, you could slap a rear ARB on it. (PM me for details if needs be) The good think about the OEM suspension, is that it has give/travel, so allows for adjustability and does a good job at damping when towing.
I have no experience with the Koni STR kit, so can't comment, I use the AP Fixed Damping, Height adjustable coil overs and provided you do not drop it, you will feel a better response without eating into comfort and flex. Damian at DPM performance is a sponsor on here and I have always been satisfied with his price promise (other providers are available).
Apart from that, hoping to see some incar footage of the Ginetta!
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that is indeed silly money!!
I'd love to, but at that price point I find it difficult to justify.
(will probably end up going on the 3rd June though...)
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thanks all for your input
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Hi all
Hoping you hybrid owners can help;
my 1.8T AUQ Hybrid setup has chewed through a techniclutch pressure plate (yes I know... was to be expected...no dwelling needed)
Car outputs 300 bhp and 300 torques (at wheels) and I want to rip the whole current clutch setup out and put something decent in.
My options:
1. Black Diamond, but they can't guarantee a clamping rate so if it goes, well...
2. Darkside setup: http://www.clutchstop.co.uk/products/darkside-developments-g60-10kg-flywheel-and-sachs-vr6-clutch-kit-5-speed-02j-02a-02r.html
3. Import a Spec clutch kit?
Please can somebody knowledgeable guide me on this. My priorities are clamping force; driveability; reliability
Much appreciated
:wtf:
keep an eye on your mpg as that will tell you if there is excessive friction. Things like brake distance too. Get another vrs owner to drive your car, drive an SMF equipped car...
Gearbox help please gentlemen, if you'd be so kind :D
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted
only heard about it, never actually checked it but:
the lubrication of the 5th gear, is through a tiny hole. So if there are impurities in the box, that hole gets clogged up and 5th gear is starved of oil. Again, this is a hear-say, never heard of such catastrophic failure and should be read in the spirit of a 'known weak spot'. Some US tuners have remedied to this, by giving this lubrication hole a slightly larger bore.
Other common issue, is that the box gets filled and because of the cog work and tiny hole, it looks like it is filled, though when you let the oil settle, it drops a bit. Correct procedure would be to refill, wait 15 minutes and add more (not overfill). Again, never been an issue, but thought I would mention it as hopefully your issue is solved by topping up the box. (fingers crossed!)
I need to ask you whether it becomes difficult to engage 5th, because of heat/thermodynamics or whether it is because - once warm - you load the engine with more torque? What happens when you double-clutch?
Hope this helps