Juka

Until about two years ago the sunroof worked all the time, even at -10°C it opened, all of a sudden it started working intermittently until I found out a pattern - if the roof heats up the sunroof works perfectly. So even if outside is cold and I leave it directly under the sun it works (car is black). Also worth mentioning if it opens then it works 100% of the time until I shut down the car, I can open/close 1000 times it will work, even if I go in the shade or a cold garage, as long as the ignition is on - but if I shut down the car, and the roof is "cold" , and I start the car up again - no more operating sunroof. I found this out the hard way happily opening the sunroof a few times, parking somewhere colder, coming back and I cannot close it anymore. Anybody had this problem in the last almost 30 years this car exists on the road and how did you solve it? Greetings from a 1.8T from 2001. driven till this day, 300.000 km's on the clock, heavily mapped, no oil consumption whatsoever

Solved - rattle was coming from the gas pedal bracket - I must have been foot heavy 😅 I retightened the three screws holding it - they were not loose though, I only tightened them further, and added a cardboar under it to make it even more under tension. For now the sound is gone, it's horrible even on video and very loud, in reality it was much worse (you couldn't speak when it rattled). Here video: Any brave drivers of a 1.8T mk1 in 2023? @robek85

Hi all, my trusty Oct 1.8t developed a horrible squeak/rattle/chirp inside the dashboard which is present almost always if not accelerating/declerating. It' comes somewhere from the inside/beneath/around the steering wheel. I've undone the fuse box and relay covers thinking they might be the cause but now it's only louder. Any hints tips insights where is the chirp is welcomed, thanks all. Another with more obvious audio

Thanks again @nige8021 Well, since the front sensor is worth 10% of the car itself, I went down the faithful "VW failsafe logic", hoping that the system will work if there is no sensor, that is if I just unplug it, which I did (with quite some effort). Lo and behold - immediately as I turned the key, the zero/home position is back to where it should be. Checking the faults, there is a new fault "front sensor signal too low" which means I did a perfect job. However - the failsafe seems to work in a manner the auto-leveling during driving no longer works, level is fixed, tried jumping in the trunk as before, the beam just goes up or down. I'm good with this until I source a new sensor ("hi mum, can you drive over with your O1 1.8T w/xenons, I have something to check out..." :))

Thanks @nige8021I did check them via VCDS just now and indeed, the rear sensor feeds back a healthy ~2.2V and drops nicely as I raise the car (via jack of course). On the other hand, the front sensor seems busted, it's stuck at ~1.05V and doesn't budge at all even raising the car. I've undone the bracket and only in the topmost position it drops a bit to ~0.9V, if I overdo it and let the arms scrub against the housing and wiring it drops to ~0.4V. But in the actual working area the voltage is stuck. Well there I have it, I guess a faulty front level sensor, anyone has a part number on hand to save me some time searching? Anyone had similar faults is it a common issue on O1's?

Hi all, I have a weird problem - my xenon's home position goes haywire after a few days of usage. I did VCDS homing, and setting correct level multiple times, works ok for a few days then either very high or very low home/zero position. Notes : - In VCDS I do have an "internal memory error" on the xenon modules I cannot reset, but this is there for years now. - Leveling itself works perfect, if I burdain the car it always goes to home position, so the motors and level sensors work obviously (?). - Rear level sensor works perfect, if I sit in the trunk, the level is automatically adjusted within a second. - I didn't have this problem until I overhauled whole suspension front/rear - front/rear level sensors had to be dismantled and put back again, maybe they are physically not at zero? How to check them for correct level? Thanks for any inputs. Octavia 2002 1.8T Combi Elegance.

Anyone still driving a 1.8T Octavia 1 in 2022? To reply to myself about the suspension road noise issue, I solved it and done it two stages: 1. changed every suspension item possible for brand new one - Lemforder all bushings, front big and small ones, swaybar links and bushings, and rear beam bushings - those were a PITA to change and was charged whole day of work for them - ouch. the road noise was improved but only at lower speed, under 20 km/h it was literally inaudible over anything, but above 20 was more or less the same (the steering input was also a bit improved). Definitely too costly for only slight improvement in road noise. The low speed improvement did suspect to me that it had something to do with shock rebound... 2. changed all four shocks to Sachs OEM ones (front oil, rear gas). desperate after ditching a whole lot €€€ for "nothing"... black Friday came in nicely, almost 50% on new Sachs shocks, got them for 160ish EUR all four corners. After changing them - world of difference, road noise is halved, and harshness was gone - to anyone reading - Bilstein B4 shocks are pure rubbish, do not buy them! If I knew this two years ago, I'd go with Sachs in the first place and just change the broken bushings for a few € not spending €€€ for everything. Main takeaway, if you want a plush and pleasant ride go with Sachs oil shocks and stock springs; I also have the "Bilstein OEM springs" but fear they are too stiff as well, as the car is still not as comfortable as I'd like... Hope my post(s) help people not make the same mistakes as I did "I just want a standard comfy suspension, hey look, Bilstein stock setup, I like the Bilstein badge, they cost the same as other brands, I'll fit those", biggest mistake ever.

My lovely sleeper is fine, running better than ever, although I have a serious comfort issue I hope fellow briskodians can help with. The car is utterly and horribly crashy, trashy and noisy to ride, help! It's stiff and uncomfortable, which I can actually live with, but the noise it's making over the invisible bumps (smallest crevices or literally road markings) like TDNNnnn TDDNnnn, the whole car is ringing like a church bell. It got even worse as the weather got colder now. Car is 100% standard suspension, with brand new Bilstein B4 shocks&springs on all four corners, with 16" rims and DOT2019 Michelin Primacy 4 in front, DOT2017 Pirelli P7 in the back. Currently it's at my mechanic where we are debugging what is wrong, I said change every possible rubber bushing you can find (that is how desperate I am). My front bushings were busted, left swaybar link, changing everything with Lemforder OEM ones. Rear bushings are next - but he fears it's the shocks are too stiff (can't blame him, I really don't actually like the Bilsteins, I fell for the brand honestly), there is also some play in the top strut caps (which were also fitted new and Bilstein). So I'm also thinking of changing to new shocks even though these are 1yr old, he did say oil shocks are more comfy than gas ones. Looking at Monroe or Sachs oil ones now... Having driven many Octavias (buying my mom also a 1.8T one, that's how much I love them), they drive like real limousines, quiet and soft. What do you guys reckon could be the reason for this crashy trashy ride, and what could solve this? I just want a quiet and comfy ride.

When do we see it breaking 300 hp??? I'm following just for this (these fancy housing paintings, not my taste, right heheh)

So much for the 17" Avus... Failed homologation, fronts are outside the car silhuette, car is basically illegal to drive with them. After much contemplating what to do, fit 225 tyres, do camber adjustment, extend the flares, even mill down the rims - in the end got rid of them (made good profit lol) and found a great deal on original 16" Ride wheels with Pirellis P7 205/55R16 already fitted, great condition of tyres and rims. Saved myself a ton of time and nerves. Weight of the set is 16.9 kg, exactly the same as 15" steel rims and tyres. Unlike horridly heavy 22.4 kg 17's. The initial turn in and car wobbliness was better on the 17's, everything else is better on 16's, especially acceleration (even grip, but probably due to good summer tyres unlike dead winters on 235). Now I'm back at my sleeper roots, the car looks just so natural, clean and calm, I look at it quite often I also took a video of 3rd gear acceleration, it's just insane IMO. Can't really tell from shaky video but I put numbers below, roughly ~4s 80-120 km/h. Thats well in GTI territory, if not better.

We need you to install 4x4 and big turbo kit now

To reply to myself, the new style cruise is fitted to my 1.8T AUM. How, I have no idea, only many many kudos to @Stjepan who did the installation and granted me the wish of having the new style, rather than the old style which is the official mk1 stalk. I know he had to fiddle about a bit to make it work, but it's here! <3 Works perfectly. In comparison to the 1.9TDI cruise control (fitted in the Fabia MK1 RS) it's very gentle on disable/restore - has a nice ramp up/down. The TDI just cut's power or enables power 100% making it very jerky.

Thanks for the writeup, it's really simple and straightforward, you only really need the torx 25 and bit no 10. I had zero problems changing both wings/fenders on my father in laws "Jaguar", 2000. pre-facelift, 1.9 TDI remapped to 122 hp going 360kkm strong, was fearing rust and broken bolts. Had color mixed to base code 9570 - turned out perfect, exactly the same as original. Here is the left hand side. Here is the right hand side.

Thanks for the writeup but I'm still very much confused what do I need for my 1.8T AUM engine. It's a huge PITA to have anyone install this where I live :( I'm transferring what I've read on: Option A: 1. Stalk 2. Loom from stalk to relay box (kit 1+2) 3. Loom from relay box to ECU (sold separately, but no longer available?) Option B: 1. Stalk 2. Loom from stalk to relay box - updated, longer version - fits actually directly to ECU? My idea is to order a genuine BAE 300 002 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/bea300002-cruise-control-de-7851.html but do I need the extra looms as from original post https://www.kufatec.com/en/volkswagen/vw-golf/golf-4-1j/cruise-control-cable-set-for-vw-golf-4-gasoline-40307 as I think I get an extra loom in this kit, that I already get in the stalk+loom kit. P.S. Difference between BAE 300 002 and BAE 300 003 is the 002 has +/- operation, will it work on 1.8T AUM intstead of the outdated single button for - (I saw it 100% work on a 1.9TDI Octavia)? @Stjepan

That's the same annoying misfire issues I had, also cyl 3 and 4. After my remap to 210hp, two original coils failed, fitted new BERU ones, they physically broke after one (1!) day, fitted then the NGK R8 ones and misfire went away - you should have went with NGK immediately. Didn't sleep for a month with these sheeiat coil packs failing all the time. I also have the exact same spark plugs Denso IK20TT, those are for LPG cars! Why did you go with them? I still have very very rarely a misfire under load - I suspect these sparkplugs. Will fit the NGK's you mention once I get the time. Didn't catch the part - your octavia is 4x4??? From my 1.5 years of finding the right 1.8t, only one 4x4 popped up, it was perfect on the ad, in reality it was the worst 1.8t I've ever seen, so sad, I even had the money on me but it wasn't worth even 500€, car for parts/junkyard. I will definetely visit one day, you're only an hour drive from Zagreb haha. I have to see first person under the hood, still weighing would I go to stage 2, squeeze out another 20-30 bhp, but seems too much hassle and €€€ for such a "small" bump in power. Anyway, kudos to the mechanical part of the car, seems spot on, very much effort and €€€ dropped inside. For the looks, I won't comment since I'm sleeper-stock look oriented

You should go with "Classic" or something else sleeper-alike Dude that's one impressive engine bay - is your original post updated with all current mods, or where could I find this? (there's over 30 pages and I just stubmled upon here). I could drop by Rijeka to meet firsthand and compare with my 1.8T How is the reliability? I'm struggling with the "little princess" nature of the engine.

Done it on a 1.9 TDI without ABS, you need new handbrake cables and brake lines (I think in our case they were custom made). Dunno about wiring, brake performance is great.

Short story: 235/45R17 fits nicely on my stock suspension Octavia 1.8T. Also looks nice and aggresive on Avus Audi S3 17" rims (wider and more offset than stock 17" spyder rims), my intention of keeping the car as a sleeper just went down the drain. Before/after pics below. Long story: So after running around the whole year incognito mode, steel 15" rims 195/65R15 w/o hubcaps, enjoying myself, and faces of unsuspecting BMW drivers - I've done the famous AUM stage 1 remap to 210 hp after which the tyres can't handle the acceleration in first two gears, and made the car almost impossible to accelerate/drive when raining so I had to do something about the grip. The idea was to get ANY cheapo/trash/dank - undamaged 17" rim to fit the standard 225/45R17, I really wanted some Fe rims (again, incognito-sleeper style), but they don't exist in 57,1 5x100 dimensions (there is a 5x100 17" steel rim, but it's for some huge Renault, and I think it's only for the spare wheel, making the rim witdh in range of lol-J). There is a lot to choose in 16" region, but 205 is just too small for the power the car makes, IMHO. I even looked into 215 combinations in 16" and not only there is no performance tyre in this dimension, it's ridiculously expensive. Mind you, I'm running standard setup on all four corners - Bilstein B4 shocks, Bilstein OEM springs - no lowering, I was a click away to order the heightened springs!! I'm never going to be a style-slave, laughing while just casually cruising over speedbumps whereas dropped GTI's/Type-R's/RS's have to do the diagonal idle+clutch maneuvers I also fancied the idea of fitting larger tyres on it, 235/45R17, my flow of thought was the following, pros/cons: + more grip ofcourse + more offset/scrub radius - more initial turn-in, responsiveness on the steering wheel + more accurate speedo + keeping comfort (decent sidewall) + less wear + overall height of car increased, again more comfort + tyre "attack angle" smaller, making it easier to run over obstacles (eg. curbs, speed-bumps), again, even more comfort (you probably noticed a pattern, I'm anti-style oriented, pro-sleeper/comfort style :)) + visually I always liked seeing fat-meaty tyres in the back + only slightly more expensive than 225/45R17 - very little experience on Octavia mk1 + that tyre combo, some say it fit's others say it doesn't - much heavier - slower acceleration - possible rubbing - worse fuel consumption (it's LPG-ed and it's dirt cheap here in Croatia) Anyway, I managed to snatch a great deal on original 17" Audi S3 "Avus" Alu rims (made by Ronal, Made in Germany), bonus points: they are 6 mm more offset and 0.5J wider than standard rims 17" Spyders, making way for wider tyre! All the calculations point to no rubbing with 235/45R17 ( https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-65-15X6ET38&wheel2=235-45-17X7.5ET32&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm left is my standard setup, right is Avus). But a real life test is needed, I don't want to risk spending €€€'s and putting new summer 235's just to find out they don't fit/rub! So I also managed to snatch winter tyres dirt cheap (almost free), Hankook Winter iCept 235/45R17 DOT2016 halfway worn - perfect for testing out the setup - if it fits, great, if it doesn't I spent a few hours and a few bucks demistifying it. Putting on just the rim on the car was a shock, when lifted, viusally seems like ~2 cm more than outline of car, ouch - on the inside though, quite a lot of space; the guys at the wheel shop rolled they eyes constantly We fitted the tyre rim combo, dropped the car, did a run around the lot full lock..... Purrrrfect, no rubbing, and when car is sitting on it's own it's just right, slightly out of car outline, this will be a slight pain to homologate tho. Inital impressions after a few runs: +/- wheels are a stunner, so much for my incognito/sleeper preferences, honestly, looks much more aggressive than the RS... I guess I'll deal with it. + very soft and controlled wheelhop, car doesn't want to break apart when you loose grip + comfortable + better turn-in, much less wobbly car - awfully heavy, steel rims+tyre 16.6 kg, alu rims+tyre 22.4 kg, ouch, you can see the pictures below, but I'll write up for any google search guys to stumble upon this, I find it invaluable info: - 235/45R17 Hankook Winter iCept 1/2 worn: 10.5 kg - Audi S3 Ronal Alu 17" rims: 11.7 kg - 17" above tyre+rim combo: 22.4 kg - 15" stock steel rim + 195/65R15 Pirelli P7 combo: 16.6 kg - noticeably "slower", feeling is the inital throttle response is much lazier, not so agressive as on 15"; can't really blame it, the car couldn't even accelerate before Didn't try the twisties yet, but the idea is to run around a few weeks and notice how the car behaves and if there will be no rubbing in spring get the Goodyears F1 Assy 5 in 235/45R17. @Madket

I put silicone around windshied corner and two holes for roof mounts - still got a leak when raining. It's very localized unlike my previous octavia where moisture would spread up to my head. I was lucky to have a neighbour fix his roof liner and took a deeper look at the exact spot where I have a leak and cannot deduct anything smart except that I think the water is going through the rubber seal and then concentrating on the spot where I have the leak. I also believe this leak develops only when car is stationary on rain, during driving it doesn't leak (I have a garage so most of the time it doesn't see the elements). See pictures below, if someone can point me where to seal it again before I take down the roof liner... P.S. my car has a sunroof and the left side drain is either clogged or disconnected, because blowing compressed air on the right I get pressure on the door drain, on the left I get none - I did block the left drain at the sunroof but the issue remains. Maybe it's this drain but I have a hard time finding the drain pictures online on an octavia...

Long story short - after a remap to 210 HP (thnx @robek85!) and after about 500 km car developed horrible misfire under acceleration, reason: two coilpacks failed - fix: changed all 4 for BERU and all was good, after a few days again horrible misfire under acceleration, reason: one of the new BERU coilpacks cracked and again everything failed - fix: changed them to NGK for Audi R8 4.2 FSI and now all is solid. So I went through the horrid 1.8T story with misfires. I couldn't sleep for a month until I got it sorted, I guess I was just unlucky with fitting the new coils and having them mechanically break apart... Mechanic said I got BERU chinese copies, don't know how that's possible since they were bough from a reputable parts store, but I did notice two boxes were from Korea and two from Italy. Picture is attached, you can see the part What I want to emphasize here is that I've read on many many forums that coils will fail either during the remap session or shortly after and that it's recommended to change them prior to a remap. Don't know what stresses the coils more on mapped cars than stock... Mine were original ones but mixed up and one dated way back to 2007. If only I knew this before the remap. Not only do the NGK's work great, they are awesome to look at, they really lift up the sexiness under the hood - see pic.

Same issue here on the 2001 1.8T Elegance. My range is max 5 meters (Fabia RS is I'd say well over 20 meters). Also changed the battery, still the same. I did have it checked up by @Stjepan he says it's something with aftermarket radio and how the antenna is connected, not really sure? :| P.S. I did try the old trick putting the key to my head and the range is greatly increased, works 8/10 times - if it works it ain't stupid I guess.

Me again, my second octavia, this time estate and 2001 and with sunroof. The same issue on the same place, left side A pillar where it meets the headliner is getting more and more wet. It's not the sunroof. I "solved" it on the old sedan by clicking in the exterior trims here and there, but here it doesn't help. Do I put sealant on the outside or inside, I'm having a hard time deciphering how you actually solved it? Btw the Estate has one piece trim throughout the length of the car, kind of fearing of breaking them...

Another update - the car was actually at @Stjepan for diagnostics and it was confirmed the climatronic unit is acting up. For some reason it just reads jibberish from the sensors (which do work well) and gets stuck. The good thing is that the weather is now mostly warm and I seldom notice it being stuck. It's the transition period of 16~17°C that makes it stuck for a long while. It seems if it starts anywhere above and lower than that temperature the climatronic works nicely.

Quick update https://photos.app.goo.gl/qSoWjoAT8eCELYQ17 - again I caught it stuck, so while the fresh air (06 line) and bumper temp (05 line) show real time temperature, the display temperature (04) is stuck at a value on startup. This was at least 15-20 minutes into the drive, then as before it suddenly "unstucks" and jumps to the actual ambient temp but I'm not sure how accurate it is (kind of dangerous driving and playing with climatronic diagnostic during driving :-S )

I didn't want to reply earlier until I got more data - so I played around with Climatronic diagnostic mode - tracking the bumper sensor (position 05) and fresh air intake sensor (position 06) and the calculated temperature from those two sensor that is shown both on the dash and the climatronic panel (position 04). What I can see - both sensors work and seem to show correct temperature (maybe the fresh air intake is a bit on the high side, but it's near the engine and all that...). The conclusion is the calculated outside temperature is the one that is stuck for about 5-10 minutes into the ride. https://photos.app.goo.gl/VZs936eN7bBy52CD7 - cold start measurements - all seem to be in order. https://photos.app.goo.gl/2qAmYVPZZqH1YENp7 - warm measurements - unfortunately I didn't catch it, but when I fired up the car the temperature was 15°C on all sensors, after leaving the garage both "live" sensors rose to actual ambient temperature, but the number on the dash was still 15°C. Then all of a sudden just moments before I started recording it displayed the correct temperature... https://photos.app.goo.gl/pwF7qPp2JzoxfUCHA - here is where I caught it acting up after a ride, you can see all sensor showing completely different (higher) temperatures than the one that is shown and stuck This leaves me puzzled and I'm still leaning on that my Climatronic unit is acting up, and from the research I've done, it's not uncommon that they fail in this way... The thing is I got the car a few months back when it was cold, and it has always shown correct ambient temperature when cold outside. Only now when it's warmer the only pattern I can see that ~15°C is it's breaking point, if it's colder outside measurements work flawlessly, if it's hotter it gets confused and irraticly shows the correct temp, even though both sensors work... When I get the time, I'll disable one of the sensors and see how it "failsafes" itself. If anyone experienced similar behaviour I'd be happy to hear how they solved it.