Geoskoda

Thanks. I ll have a look and see, it should be the same i recon.

Hi there, I recently disconnected my superb battery for couple of hours to do some wire repair on the driver door hinge for the airbag sensor (typical problem with this model i recon). When i finished the repair, i put back everything together and re connected the battery to find out that the alarm siren stopped working. Now when i lock and unlock the car, the hazard lights flash as per the normal without the chirp sound. The small red LED light on the door keep on for i lock the car for a while before it starts blinking. Also scanned the car for codes and now i have code 01134 showing which is "Alarm horn - no signal / communication". I thought initially that i must have damaged or disturbed another wire when i did the repair so i took the door panel off again and checked my work but nothing wrong i could find. Could this be issue with the alarm siren battery died incidentally when i disconnevted the main battery. Reading online, it seems these modules comes with small build in rechargeable battery which are prone to fail in 10 years or so. My car is 2009. If i am right, where do i find the alarm siren module, i checked everywhere in the engine bay but could not find it. Thanks in advance for your help. Just ro add to this, i now noticed that the car horn also stopped working if the car if off. It only works when the ignition is on. I am 100% sure, it used to work when the ignition is off !!

Sorry i thought i posted in the superb forum. Apologise i ll see if i can move it

Many thanks.

Thanks. It is 150 bhp and 2wd. The owner recons it is dry clutch but he could be wrong. How can i check? Wet clutch is more reliable no? And if it s dry is it a no go do u recon?

Hi all, looking for quick advise about whether to purchase or avoid a DSG dry clutch sportline superb with 150k mileage. Previous owner saying all services were done including the DSG, timing belt etc. but i am reading mixed messages about the gearbox and clutch... Any advise will be highly appreciated? I know Skoda are quite reliable cars and I do keep maintaining my skoda very well. The trade off for the high mileage is i ll be able to get it at low price but i dont want to end up with failed gearbox later and regret it... Owner said it is a dry clutch which i assume comes with the 7 gear DSG ...

Hi all, I need a bit of advice re clutch hydraulic line on my 2009 superb. I am getting gradual air ingress into the line overtime to the point I cannot put the car into any gear. Solution has been to bleed the clutch line and get the air out and there is no brake fluid loss as such I don’t think it is a leak issue + I am able to drive the car for few weeks between the bleeds. I had the master cylinder and its seal replaced recently but this did not help. My money is now on the slave cylinder but given it is concentric one it is mounted inside the gear box as such it is a big ish job to do so wanted to see if someone else had similar issue before I go and spend anther 500 pounds or so unnecessarily. Thanks for any tips.

Many thanks for this topic as the above helped me to find the exact sensor on my superb which had a broken wire... It was an easy fix once identified... cheers for this

Hi All, Just looking for some advise with my parking sensors as they stopped working all of the sudden with no reason... When i put reverse gear now, the sensors beep few times and stop with nothing coming on the radio screen. The sensor light button keep flashing (the yellow button). If i am not in reverse gear and i press the sensor button the same happen. The radio screen shows the car diagram for a split second then it disappear and i get the beeping noise for 2 or 3 seconds and none of the sensor work... see attached video. The issue started a week or so ago but the sensors work the following day as normal then stopped again the day after and worked again then stopped now for good few days ago. I am suspecting it is a broken wire somewhere in the system but no idea where to look as in my mind the cables do not go through door hinges or move that much ? Any thoughts or ideas are welcomed - thanks in advance... P.S i just realised how reliant we can be on the parking sensors specially with a long vehicle like the superb... VID_20220613_184626.mp4

Hi all, anyone is able to point me in the right direction to get torque settings in general ? and more specific for turbo replacement and front coil springs... thanks

It is not seized but the blades are damaged and bent. i dont think the car was driven much since the oil leaking... prob 2 miles max. I started the engine without the turbo and it did start as normal without any struggle. so finger crossed engine and DPF are fine !!

I am replacing my turbo after an oil leak due to oil pump failure which killed the turbo, then when oil pressure restored oil leaked into turbo pipes etc. What is the best advise to clean the intercooler and pipes? is Acetone good for intercoolder? would that works on the pipes as well of would it risk damaging the rubber and i should use hot water with soap ? cheers

Thanks. It turned out to be a turbo issue and when i scanned the car it did give under boost error code. New turbo has been order and i ll fit that this weekend. Engine started fine when i disconnected all turbo pipes which were full of oil... now i need to clean all pipes and intercooler...

Agreed @xman but both battery and alternator were fine with no issues 1 day before the oil pump failure. How do you justify the smoke coming from around the turbo? unless the DPF has blocked with oil which is preventing the engine from starting now...

A bit of update from today... I charged the car battery again for few hours then tried to start it. The engine definitely is rotating as normal trying to start with no luck (no dodgy noise). It does sound as engine is flooded with fuel and some smoke came off the turbo area then the engine sounded about to start but it did not and more smoke came out from the turbo area. My logic: there is something wrong with the turbo which meant the engine ran rich which I was driving it yesterday which caused it to stall... Does this logic make sense at all? If so am i looking into a turbo failure here? I don't think it is a loose pipe given the problem seems to happen on the exhaust side of the turbo. Shall I focus my effort in removing the turbo and have a look on the turbo bearings to see if it can spin or not... In my mind given smoke came out from the turbo area that means there is some blockage in the exhaust turbine or maybe the turbine itself cannot spin anymore due to its bearing failing when the oil pressure dropped !! Assuming the engine is flooded and no enough air is getting into it it is struggling to start again... Any thoughts are welcome