Geoskoda

Sorry i thought i posted in the superb forum. Apologise i ll see if i can move it

Many thanks.

Thanks. It is 150 bhp and 2wd. The owner recons it is dry clutch but he could be wrong. How can i check? Wet clutch is more reliable no? And if it s dry is it a no go do u recon?

Hi all, looking for quick advise about whether to purchase or avoid a DSG dry clutch sportline superb with 150k mileage. Previous owner saying all services were done including the DSG, timing belt etc. but i am reading mixed messages about the gearbox and clutch... Any advise will be highly appreciated? I know Skoda are quite reliable cars and I do keep maintaining my skoda very well. The trade off for the high mileage is i ll be able to get it at low price but i dont want to end up with failed gearbox later and regret it... Owner said it is a dry clutch which i assume comes with the 7 gear DSG ...

Hi all, I need a bit of advice re clutch hydraulic line on my 2009 superb. I am getting gradual air ingress into the line overtime to the point I cannot put the car into any gear. Solution has been to bleed the clutch line and get the air out and there is no brake fluid loss as such I don’t think it is a leak issue + I am able to drive the car for few weeks between the bleeds. I had the master cylinder and its seal replaced recently but this did not help. My money is now on the slave cylinder but given it is concentric one it is mounted inside the gear box as such it is a big ish job to do so wanted to see if someone else had similar issue before I go and spend anther 500 pounds or so unnecessarily. Thanks for any tips.

Many thanks for this topic as the above helped me to find the exact sensor on my superb which had a broken wire... It was an easy fix once identified... cheers for this

Hi All, Just looking for some advise with my parking sensors as they stopped working all of the sudden with no reason... When i put reverse gear now, the sensors beep few times and stop with nothing coming on the radio screen. The sensor light button keep flashing (the yellow button). If i am not in reverse gear and i press the sensor button the same happen. The radio screen shows the car diagram for a split second then it disappear and i get the beeping noise for 2 or 3 seconds and none of the sensor work... see attached video. The issue started a week or so ago but the sensors work the following day as normal then stopped again the day after and worked again then stopped now for good few days ago. I am suspecting it is a broken wire somewhere in the system but no idea where to look as in my mind the cables do not go through door hinges or move that much ? Any thoughts or ideas are welcomed - thanks in advance... P.S i just realised how reliant we can be on the parking sensors specially with a long vehicle like the superb... VID_20220613_184626.mp4

Hi all, anyone is able to point me in the right direction to get torque settings in general ? and more specific for turbo replacement and front coil springs... thanks

It is not seized but the blades are damaged and bent. i dont think the car was driven much since the oil leaking... prob 2 miles max. I started the engine without the turbo and it did start as normal without any struggle. so finger crossed engine and DPF are fine !!

I am replacing my turbo after an oil leak due to oil pump failure which killed the turbo, then when oil pressure restored oil leaked into turbo pipes etc. What is the best advise to clean the intercooler and pipes? is Acetone good for intercoolder? would that works on the pipes as well of would it risk damaging the rubber and i should use hot water with soap ? cheers

Thanks. It turned out to be a turbo issue and when i scanned the car it did give under boost error code. New turbo has been order and i ll fit that this weekend. Engine started fine when i disconnected all turbo pipes which were full of oil... now i need to clean all pipes and intercooler...

Agreed @xman but both battery and alternator were fine with no issues 1 day before the oil pump failure. How do you justify the smoke coming from around the turbo? unless the DPF has blocked with oil which is preventing the engine from starting now...

A bit of update from today... I charged the car battery again for few hours then tried to start it. The engine definitely is rotating as normal trying to start with no luck (no dodgy noise). It does sound as engine is flooded with fuel and some smoke came off the turbo area then the engine sounded about to start but it did not and more smoke came out from the turbo area. My logic: there is something wrong with the turbo which meant the engine ran rich which I was driving it yesterday which caused it to stall... Does this logic make sense at all? If so am i looking into a turbo failure here? I don't think it is a loose pipe given the problem seems to happen on the exhaust side of the turbo. Shall I focus my effort in removing the turbo and have a look on the turbo bearings to see if it can spin or not... In my mind given smoke came out from the turbo area that means there is some blockage in the exhaust turbine or maybe the turbine itself cannot spin anymore due to its bearing failing when the oil pressure dropped !! Assuming the engine is flooded and no enough air is getting into it it is struggling to start again... Any thoughts are welcome

do you mean the belt that runs the alternator ? Yes it looked fine. Is the turbo has gone would the engine stop and not start again ? Do you recon there is still some hope in the car then?

I have a bit of story here. My engine showed low oil pressure warning 2 weeks ago and I stupidly drove it for approx. 3 miles then engine went into Limp mode, then I stopped and got it recovered. It is 2.0TDI 2009 Skoda superb 140BHP. engine code BMP. The engine had oil and new filter and no issues with pressure sensor when the problem took place. Upon researching here, I came across the known hex drive issue / failure for these VAG engines. So I got it recovered after Christmas to a nearby garage and indeed it was the hex pin rounded. Up till this point the engine sounded normal when it was started as I had to start it to reverse the car from my drive (as the RAC man refused to help me pushing it). I got the garage to replace the pin with a new one (the solid pin rather than the hollow) as I did not want to dive into replacing the balancer shaft given I was not sure if I had caused more damage to the engine or not hence did not want to spend a fortune on it. When the garage removed the pump I tried to put the undamaged end of the hex key into the balancer and it looked solid so I concluded it is ok to not replace it until I know if I can salvage the car. Today the garage phone me saying my car is ready and working good again with no engine damage. Apparently he said that he put the new hex key and drove it for a couple of miles and everything is fine. Apparently I was lucky with escaping engine damage. I took the car and drove home (which is only 1.6 miles away). During my journey I heard engine whistling noise as I put my foot on the accelerator then when I release it that noise goes away/ reduces. After a couple of uphill short slopes the car lost all power and the engine shut itself (no sounds of bangs / breaks or drama etc.). I noticed the battery red light came on split second before that happening. I got the car to stop then tried to restart it and I wont start. Engine turns a bit with struggle then does not start. No oil pressure warning or light were on before this... Any idea of what has happened ? Is this likely to be an inevitable damage due to me driving the car for 3 miles with no oil which was going to happen regardless of me replacing the balancer or not? or is it a something else failed triggered by the oil loss earlier on (turbo etc.). Or is it shortfall of the repair garage? I cannot understand how the garage tested the car with no issues (according to him) then I got sudden failure... I don't want to go back to the garage as I had a fall out with him due to taking ages to change the hex pin on my car and not taking this repair seriously so I just wanted to get out. I started to doubt if he has done something on purpose !! Appreciate any thoughts from you... is this now a car for scrap or do i still have some hope?

Very useful @Carlston many thanks. I am not looking for the cheapest option as i want something decent on my car. I cannot understand why Autodoc are selling Kilen for £42 whereas ebay £26 !! I might as well just buy it from ebay then. Make you wonder how much of this research a car repair garage is doing before selecting a product for their customers !! I will be doing this repair myself hence doing the research but normally you do to a garage and all what you get told is a fitted price without even given the option on brands etc. and of course it is sky high price !! some garages are utter disgrace

What do you think of Sachs? the shocks absorbers on my car are sachs so was thinking of using the same brand... Will Kilen/Lesjofors springs be on on Sachs absorbers ?

Thanks Carlston. Mine is the above to it must be 3C0411105C but i will check the build code today. This is something i totally forgot. many thanks

Hi, looking for some help in identifying the part number for my 2009 superb 2TDI 140BHP. i need to replace both front coil springs and i had a look on ETKA to find the part number but seem to get confused with the various models and letters thrown at me... any help in decoding this for me is highly appreciated...

Thanks guys for the useful info... much appreciated. I ll wait and see how bad the repair on my Mk2 oil pump will be then decide. any knowledge if the slave balancer will definitely suffer damage? best scenario for me will be to replace the hex key only but my mechanics is proposing to replace the whole pump which i am not too sure about. I am worried this will turn into a money draining job. Apologies i know i am drifting away from the original topic but if you have any knowledge you can share that would be fab.

Hi all, does anybody know is this problem has been sorted for MK3 superb engines? 2016+?

Thanks quite encouraging. the one i have my eye on is 4x4 superb 2016. Not sure if it will be better to stick of normal front wheel drive only (one less problem to worry about in terms of breakdown etc.)?

hi all, pretty useful info in here. does anyone know if this still an issue on the MK3 engines? Superb 2016+??

Thanks ApertureS. Would you recommend me then avoiding the Skoda mk3 in general?

Hi all, i am looking to buy a superb Mk3 diesel 2016+ however, I had Mk2 2009 which had an oil pump failure due to hex key wear at 110k miles. It is the BMP engine with gear driven balancing module. Apparently the oil pump was an issue on 2.0PD engines in Mk1 and 2. Sadly i discovered that way too late (while doing my research after the pump failure). The question is: has this problem been sorted on newer Skoda/VAG engines in Mk3 or am i going to repeat the same mistake again. Due to budget constraints, i will be probably buying a car with 100+ miles on it hence my concerns.