Armis123

So my car is having a weird issue where slightly bliping the throttle throws the car into limp mode, also it idles high sometimes. My mechanic connected it to a computer and it said the APP sensor is faulty. If i were to change it myself, would i need to reset it with a diagnostic tool or any procedure? Or is it just a straight swap?

Yeah, i already noticed it myself for some reason i tend to resolve such problems right after asking for help

So i’m looking for the rubber seal that goes at the bottor of the wiper arm, since water is leakimg through the hole. Is there a part code for it or a way to put some other similair seal on it? Something like a 8D9955758A (A4, B5, Avant read arm wiper seal)

You could take the part off and get a new one made by Hydroscand. In Estonia they used to fix them, don't know about UK though

I've been searching for front fenders for my superb, without any progress. I have been able to find a vendor who sells OEM fenders with a delivery time around 5 weeks and for an insane amount. So my question is if other vag cars around the same era use fenders that would match or not?

Haven't checked for water ingress, what concerns me the most is the airbag low voltage, accompanied by the central locking made me suspicious of the battery. Also had the diagnostic run on the car 6 months back, then there were no codes

Also as an addition, i've read that the airbad code usually comes with the airbag light, but mine goes off after starting the car as usual.

So recently i got an turbo underpressure code, so i plugged my car into a self service scanner that gave more codes than i expected. Along with that some AC codes that i already know how to fix. My question is could the following codes be associated with a bad battery? The door locks started working intermittently a month ago. The driver door sometimes stays locked when unlocking and the rear driver door sometimes stays unlocked after locking. I already changed the battery in the key fob. The car starts fine so the battery is not completely dead, which throws me off a little bit Airbag Diagnose 00532 Voltage supply Convenience system Diagnose 00928 Switch central locking driver side; implausible signal 00929 Switch central locking passenger side; implausible signal 00930 Switch central locking left back; implausible signal 00931 Switch central locking right back; implausible signal

Also a question about the tie rod boots, are they supposed to twist while turning by hand or did my repair shop half ass the job?

So i'm starting to lose my mind a bit. For the last two months i've been trying to get my alignment issue sorted out, but three different repair shops haven't found a solution to my problem. So far i have replaced lower sway bars, tie rods and ends, upper sway bars and the overall condition of the suspenison is very good. But still the issue remains. at about 120km/h the car starts to vibrate really bad and pulls to the right. Almonst nothing can be felt at 90 km/h. I will try swapping the wheels when i can to see if my tires and wheels might be the issue. Anything else i can check? Does the steering rack have bushings as well?

So recently i replaced my inner and outer tie rods and got an alignment. The thing is that the alignment sheet says i have -1*50' camber at the front. My question is how much will it affect tire wear, substantially or almost not at all? I got the Meyle HD tie rods which are claimed to be reinforced and better than OEM, so i'd rather keep them if they don't allow more adjustability. I'm running 8J ET35 wheels with 225/45/R18 on a 2006 Superb Mk1 2.0TDI

Found a leak in my power steering hose, so i am looking for ways to fix it without buying a new part. My mechanic was unable to find a cheap-ish replacement. Not interested in paying about 200€ for a hose that could potentially be fixed. I tried pushing the hose on further, but didn’t want to use much force. Is it safe to push it more or is it normal? Or any other thoughts how i could get it fixed?