phibes

Sounds logical. I wonder if the wires that were broken in drivers side were part of a bus comms system. Where judging by the number of connections in the drivers module and the fact vcds showed the comms failure for the passenger door against that module… it must be master. VIN is TMBMC93T3D9042621.

Yeah. I should have said! RHD. I was wondering that and will check. However a wiring diagram would be great so I am not guessing.

Hi I have a comms failure to the rear left door. I repaired 3 broken wires in the drivers door loom, at the hinge; but that didn’t fix the problem. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for this so I can trace it? Thanks

Solved. I wasn’t feeling the spring steel runners into the track. Good video on youtube for those with same problem: https://youtu.be/N5beaqdfrDQ?si=3yruyWnCG1nRvkim

I've had a hell of a time replacing my roof blind. I have been through two that I got off eBay - they both ran off the runners when retracting the blind and bunched up. I tried putting a piece of dowel in the second one to stop it deforming, and while it helped it didn't solve the problem. They are the same width as the original but use a different runner system as shown. I haven't yet found any that have the original, and would rather not pay Skoda's usurious parts prices... Has anyone found an aftermarket that works? Thanks

I got the HD front and rear combo, also the HDMI in option (has to be ordered separately), DAB (sep antenna, put on rear side window behind c pillar- station wagon). Existing antenna works fine with GPS and FM radio. Be sure to get the superb specific one for bezel. the seller barely understands English so have low expectations of comprehension.

I bought the maxed out one 8/256. In hindsight 4/64 or 4/128 should be enough if using car play.

A slight background hiss when nothing’s playing. The carlink can be a bit clunky and only connects via bluetooth. The UI is a bit clunky, chinglish. Less of an issue if using carlink. Otherwise see XDA forums. Not for amateurs though. Lots of fiddling needed.

I ended up doing it… mekede m6 pro 2K from ali express Huge improvement, some flaws I can live with, but you need to have some tinkering experience and don’t expect much support from the seller… https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMgfnPO https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/mekede-m6pro-plus-with-2k-2000x1200-screen.4516547/

I can’t find any threads or videos showing disassembly of a DSG mk2 superb shifter. I have popped the decal off the top and can see workings. I have a replacement from Ali express, but would rather just replace the button and top decal. As the chrome is stuffed.

Answering my own question… There is no room under the bonnet. The best option would be to install where the medical kit goes (opposite existing battery), cut boot liner - essentially mirror existing battery and wire in parallel.

Looking at the options sheet for my car (191fsi combi) it suggests there is the option of having two batteries. The current one (no pun intended) is in the boot. I assume an extra would be under the bonnet. Has anyone seen/done this? I have a spare battery and occasional parasitic drains I am yet to trace. Am about to swap head unit to upgrade.

Hi, Has anyone tried any of the generic RNS510 replacement units, e.g.: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002649144963.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.79.15b67f2bM1iAgp&algo_pvid=a9bec748-bbd5-40c4-a7d1-27f535d3a65b&algo_exp_id=a9bec748-bbd5-40c4-a7d1-27f535d3a65b-39&pdp_npi=3%40dis!AUD!295.4!147.69!!!!!%402102176616833314315794198d077a!12000021585588905!sea!AU!0&curPageLogUid=FpMdbB6ogOek https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003444881848.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.13.15b67f2bM1iAgp&algo_pvid=a9bec748-bbd5-40c4-a7d1-27f535d3a65b&algo_exp_id=a9bec748-bbd5-40c4-a7d1-27f535d3a65b-6&pdp_npi=3%40dis!AUD!185.46!122.4!!!!!%402102176616833314315794198d077a!12000029510737733!sea!AU!0&curPageLogUid=oDUi8rjwidA2 ?

Yes, you are right. They apparently fit other build codes. I am going to try these, which appear to match and are in stock near me (I have the front wheels off, just changed a rotor): https://www.bendix.com.au/products/db2210 There’s a DBA pad with the same model code that the manufacturer lists as fitting 1LK and looks like a close match.

Thanks. I went through my car’s option codes and I have a different brake variant (1LK). Mismatched by the place I bought it from.

Hi, I bought some pads (Bendix DB1849) that supposedly fit my car. However, the outer pads are missing the retainer clips that the OEM ones have. Per pic below. Are they needed? Thanks

Ah. I re-read your table. Understood.

Thanks. What do you mean by “approved”? Is this by Skoda for the arch profile, clearance? There are chains made for 225/40/19 - konig 097. While not ideal, I could run on rear wheels rather than front- it’s a 4wd.

Obviously. I mean that I want them to fit/work but basic is fine. From other post looks like will need to be expensive low profile ones like konig k-slim 097, if even these will fit.

Hi, I have a 191FSI, and was wondering if anyone had found snow chains that fit well. Preferably budget as I am in Australia, and while they need to be carried on mountain, the probability of needing to fit is low… Thanks!

Thanks Re-reading the manual, you are right re the aux heater. I am not getting the 9L capacity referred to in the engine training manual I have, so I assume I am just not triggering the thermostat for the engine block vanes. The reservoir is high on the 3.6 as well. So yes, if running as an open system (cap off) it should let air escape. I have squeezed the hoses a lot. I have flushed at least part of it clean, so will just replace coolant and drive around with the heater on full. If I need to do another flush/replace I will put it down to experience.

Hi, I have drained the coolant out of my Mk2 191FSI (V6), and am trying to clean the radiator. Has anyone done the same? I'm finding that with the heater on, and temp at 90degC, only a limited amount of coolant is drawn into the system (about 5-6L). Any more stays in the resevoir. The workshop manual is really vague, but does refer to a N279 valve - and I have seen postings like this https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/4526/help-turning-n279-shut-valve that describe the valve creating a closed loop at the heater, bypassing the engine circuit. When I use a vacuum pump on the return valve I get the impression it's closed. I have seen suggestions that VW/Skoda systems are self-bleeding. Is it not that simple? Thanks