Hardy1812

Time came to say goodbye to the octy, I just didn’t want throw anymore money at solving the over pressurising, I changed thermostat, radiator, auxiliary water pump, egr cooler and gave it litres and litres of coolant,, all to no avail, just a little thank you to you all for all of the help and advice that you gave me,, sad day as I really loved the car but enough was enough so I had to purchase another car,, unfortunately not a Vrs but a Honda civic 2013 1.6 diesel,, full Honda service history few extra options inside,, happyish with as I miss the octy 🤣🤣,, but I’m sure it’ll grow on me again massive thank you 👍🏻👍🏻

Yeah she’s a derv,, can’t remember the code but she’s sticking assuming it’s just a tad hard for it to pull it so throws up the code, she still boosts and on the odd occasion she will go into limp mode until I do ignition off/on

Mine where just from fleabay captain,, £180 for discs £62 for front pads £31 for dust covers and yeah I had to measure the rear discs as I wasn’t sure if they were 272mm or 282mm as always mine were the dearer 282mm 🤣,, always use the EBC ultimax I think they do make a difference over standard but that’s just that placebo think more than likely 🤣🤣,, things left to do CV boot,, EGR cooler, turbo actuator and the piggin P2015 inlet bank 1 AGAIN 🤣🤣

Will get some photos as I forgot to take em when changing them 🤣🤣,, only thing I forgot to do was put the new dust shield on drivers rear 🤣🤣,,, you know the one that was missing when I checked the rear disc size and noticed it missing 🤣🤣 ended up putting M-tec drilled and grooved discs all round and EBC ultimax pads on the front and mintex on the rear, full clean up and silicone greased slider pins,, but I did notice my passenger side CV boot I has a small split so that’s me next job

Cheers captain,, I’d have probably forced it if it was tight 🤣,,

Good morning peeps,, finally car been running well 🤣,, few little niggles still though,, I’m changing discs and pads all round due to wear pad indicator been on now and was wondering if any one can tell which direction the pistons turn to wind them back in and do I wind them all the way in or do I need to back them off slightly?? thanks peeps

Cheers gents this did come on before I did the fluid change,, as I said it’s what made me check the level and found out the fluid was black 🤣,, it was a tad low but assumed that was just general pad wear,, but she is now at the right level so maybe the pads could be in need of a overhaul so I’ll change everything all round more than likely,,

morning peeps,, had this dash light come on and stay on but if I turn ignition off after a min it stays off,, seems to do it intermittently as for the past few days it’s off,, first thought was brakes ?? Which was why I checked me fluid and found it black 🤣,, so flushed and changed but this light makes an odd appearance still every now and then should I panic or just add it to my too do list of repairs 🤣🤣(ie egr cooler, inlet, turbo actuator, nail in tyre, service, cam belt ) not necessarily in that order ,, 2010 2.0l Tdi vrs CEGA engine 6 speed manual silver 🤣

I’ve not done the ABS bleed procedure on my Octavia. But I did on my Mondeo ST using forscan, that was just a case of all wheels off start the procedure and it told you what wheel and you just open the bleed nipple,, backs never really did anything as I assume they not connected to the ABS pump,, but when it said fronts forscan made the ABS pump switch on this allowing the fluid to flow through i think anyway 🤣 it made a whirring noise,, had to do the bleed due to front brake pipe wearing through and breaking half whilst driving 🤣

Right then gents decided to buy some comma DOT4 esp bought 2 litres and flush through just over a litre,, I also bought one of those pump pressure bleeders and I must say this made life a whole lot easier,, did drivers front first just so it was shortest distance for fluid to come out of the reservoir then I just did the other 3 pipes,, all clean and look much nicer. Definitely recommend the pump thing so much quicker

Well that’s more confusing then now 🤣🤣,,

Can I mix it with DOT 4 ,, it’s literally to do a fluid flush so it would be flushed out or at least a major majority of it 🤣,, looked at mine at the weekend and it’s practically black 🤣

Morning peeps,, wondered if anyone could help regarding type of brake fluid I’d need or can use in my 2010 vRS 2.0 ltrive had a look on halfrauds and euro poop parts and they all say DOT4 ESP brake and clutch ??? can I not just a DOT4 or does it have to be ESP assuming that’s electronic stability program Any recommendations on what brand or stick with genuine skoda thanks peeps

I did wonder about the sealer,, but when I first bought the car after a month I changed the gearbox oil and a week later I did the coolant (have and always will change all fluids when I buy a car) because it was the first time I noticed the pressure issue but car was warm and it was under a lot of pressure and spat coolant,, but I could never see a jet of water going back into expansion so assume it always had this issue way back when I bought it,, it just never dawned on me it had an issue until like I said it spat it out after been stood for a couple of days EGR cooler was mentioned by a few friends as a possibility and is on my todo list but as I said I never put any coolant in unless I took cap off to fast and it spat it out. yes it is kinda under control but I need to sort turbo actuator as that’s a major issue now and inlet bank 1 (P2015),, feel like scrapping sometimes but it still makes me smile plus it’s still cold and I hate working on cars when it’s cold 🤣🤣,,

Hi sorry not updated it anymore yet,, But I have since changed coolant, expansion tank, radiator didn’t change the matrix as it was really awkward,, I did a complete flush as best as I could by holding pipes and covering holes so water would flush engine and the matrix,,there are 2 hoses that I think have a one way valve in (both mine were blocked)I’ll add a photo,, these 2 pipes helped me no end as I wasn’t getting any water overflowing into the top of the expansion tank thus I think keep an airlock in the system,, the flush out and radiator change in my opinion seriously helped as I now have only a slight pressure in the system and don’t even bother to release it every morning as it stays the same pressure if I leave it one day or a week, pipe 23 goes to top of radiator and to a plastic part down the right hand side of engine then from the tee piece back to expansion tank these 2 pipes are definitely worth checking to see if they are blocked I just took one pipe off and tried to blow down it both ways and it was blocked so I just whacked it on the floor a few time and a load of gunk flew out. Oh I have now always got heat in the cabin,, although barring flushing I didn’t do anything specific for the matrix