Hardy1812

Time came to say goodbye to the octy, I just didn’t want throw anymore money at solving the over pressurising, I changed thermostat, radiator, auxiliary water pump, egr cooler and gave it litres and litres of coolant,, all to no avail, just a little thank you to you all for all of the help and advice that you gave me,, sad day as I really loved the car but enough was enough so I had to purchase another car,, unfortunately not a Vrs but a Honda civic 2013 1.6 diesel,, full Honda service history few extra options inside,, happyish with as I miss the octy 🤣🤣,, but I’m sure it’ll grow on me again massive thank you 👍🏻👍🏻

Yeah she’s a derv,, can’t remember the code but she’s sticking assuming it’s just a tad hard for it to pull it so throws up the code, she still boosts and on the odd occasion she will go into limp mode until I do ignition off/on

Mine where just from fleabay captain,, £180 for discs £62 for front pads £31 for dust covers and yeah I had to measure the rear discs as I wasn’t sure if they were 272mm or 282mm as always mine were the dearer 282mm 🤣,, always use the EBC ultimax I think they do make a difference over standard but that’s just that placebo think more than likely 🤣🤣,, things left to do CV boot,, EGR cooler, turbo actuator and the piggin P2015 inlet bank 1 AGAIN 🤣🤣

Will get some photos as I forgot to take em when changing them 🤣🤣,, only thing I forgot to do was put the new dust shield on drivers rear 🤣🤣,,, you know the one that was missing when I checked the rear disc size and noticed it missing 🤣🤣 ended up putting M-tec drilled and grooved discs all round and EBC ultimax pads on the front and mintex on the rear, full clean up and silicone greased slider pins,, but I did notice my passenger side CV boot I has a small split so that’s me next job

Cheers captain,, I’d have probably forced it if it was tight 🤣,,

Good morning peeps,, finally car been running well 🤣,, few little niggles still though,, I’m changing discs and pads all round due to wear pad indicator been on now and was wondering if any one can tell which direction the pistons turn to wind them back in and do I wind them all the way in or do I need to back them off slightly?? thanks peeps

Cheers gents this did come on before I did the fluid change,, as I said it’s what made me check the level and found out the fluid was black 🤣,, it was a tad low but assumed that was just general pad wear,, but she is now at the right level so maybe the pads could be in need of a overhaul so I’ll change everything all round more than likely,,

morning peeps,, had this dash light come on and stay on but if I turn ignition off after a min it stays off,, seems to do it intermittently as for the past few days it’s off,, first thought was brakes ?? Which was why I checked me fluid and found it black 🤣,, so flushed and changed but this light makes an odd appearance still every now and then should I panic or just add it to my too do list of repairs 🤣🤣(ie egr cooler, inlet, turbo actuator, nail in tyre, service, cam belt ) not necessarily in that order ,, 2010 2.0l Tdi vrs CEGA engine 6 speed manual silver 🤣

I’ve not done the ABS bleed procedure on my Octavia. But I did on my Mondeo ST using forscan, that was just a case of all wheels off start the procedure and it told you what wheel and you just open the bleed nipple,, backs never really did anything as I assume they not connected to the ABS pump,, but when it said fronts forscan made the ABS pump switch on this allowing the fluid to flow through i think anyway 🤣 it made a whirring noise,, had to do the bleed due to front brake pipe wearing through and breaking half whilst driving 🤣

Right then gents decided to buy some comma DOT4 esp bought 2 litres and flush through just over a litre,, I also bought one of those pump pressure bleeders and I must say this made life a whole lot easier,, did drivers front first just so it was shortest distance for fluid to come out of the reservoir then I just did the other 3 pipes,, all clean and look much nicer. Definitely recommend the pump thing so much quicker

Well that’s more confusing then now 🤣🤣,,

Can I mix it with DOT 4 ,, it’s literally to do a fluid flush so it would be flushed out or at least a major majority of it 🤣,, looked at mine at the weekend and it’s practically black 🤣

Morning peeps,, wondered if anyone could help regarding type of brake fluid I’d need or can use in my 2010 vRS 2.0 ltrive had a look on halfrauds and euro poop parts and they all say DOT4 ESP brake and clutch ??? can I not just a DOT4 or does it have to be ESP assuming that’s electronic stability program Any recommendations on what brand or stick with genuine skoda thanks peeps

I did wonder about the sealer,, but when I first bought the car after a month I changed the gearbox oil and a week later I did the coolant (have and always will change all fluids when I buy a car) because it was the first time I noticed the pressure issue but car was warm and it was under a lot of pressure and spat coolant,, but I could never see a jet of water going back into expansion so assume it always had this issue way back when I bought it,, it just never dawned on me it had an issue until like I said it spat it out after been stood for a couple of days EGR cooler was mentioned by a few friends as a possibility and is on my todo list but as I said I never put any coolant in unless I took cap off to fast and it spat it out. yes it is kinda under control but I need to sort turbo actuator as that’s a major issue now and inlet bank 1 (P2015),, feel like scrapping sometimes but it still makes me smile plus it’s still cold and I hate working on cars when it’s cold 🤣🤣,,

Hi sorry not updated it anymore yet,, But I have since changed coolant, expansion tank, radiator didn’t change the matrix as it was really awkward,, I did a complete flush as best as I could by holding pipes and covering holes so water would flush engine and the matrix,,there are 2 hoses that I think have a one way valve in (both mine were blocked)I’ll add a photo,, these 2 pipes helped me no end as I wasn’t getting any water overflowing into the top of the expansion tank thus I think keep an airlock in the system,, the flush out and radiator change in my opinion seriously helped as I now have only a slight pressure in the system and don’t even bother to release it every morning as it stays the same pressure if I leave it one day or a week, pipe 23 goes to top of radiator and to a plastic part down the right hand side of engine then from the tee piece back to expansion tank these 2 pipes are definitely worth checking to see if they are blocked I just took one pipe off and tried to blow down it both ways and it was blocked so I just whacked it on the floor a few time and a load of gunk flew out. Oh I have now always got heat in the cabin,, although barring flushing I didn’t do anything specific for the matrix

P2015 and P20 something or other which is turbo actuator changed the inlet a while back and fitted the little mod clip thing

Morning peeps been having issues with over pressurisation for a few months,, try head gasket sealer didn’t work,, test came back positive for it so i decided to change thermostat, auxiliary pump and radiator just in case one of these where at fault,, well done hinge didn’t go according to plan hahaha. What a nightmare changing thermostat,, 4 hours to get to it and change and about 6 hours in total do the full job. anyway flushed out the pipes best as I could bleed system (so I thought) took it for a spin all seemed good until I plugged my reader in and did live data 109 degrees it said,, got home expansion tank water was bouncing due to it boiling,, tried bleeding exactly the same. So took everything back off the next day fitted the old thermostat back on, ( checked it worked) and filled back up bleed it (another 4 hours) and finally everything was back to normal apart from it still pressurises 😡,, but at least I can drive it just have to release pressure every morning still. I did check the thermostat before it went in and it did open whilst in a pan of boiling water but not when I poured kettle in it. So maybe it was faulty from the get go,, my next thing to replace is the EGR cooler as people have said this could be an issue with pressure and gases being shown in coolant 🤷🏻‍♂️,, getting a bit fed up now just chucking money at it try to solve this issue my car never overheats I don’t add any coolant no smoke from exhaust but she over pressurises,, as far as I can tell all air is out,, couple of the little pipes that go back to tank were blocked so cleaned em out,, flushed system best as I could and she still does it. thanks for listening to me moaning 🤣,, but I’ll post up when I change cooler and hope that it cures my issue then at least if anyone else has this issue they can maybe try what I’ve done thanks peeps

Not searched about climatronic but everything is ok with the system,, think I had fresh air sensor,, but changed that and it’s still an issue,, but VCDS says all ok thanks for the info on the auxiliary pump didn’t know if it was to circulate the hot water to the matrix,, so that kinda puts my theory on that out the window,, wondered if that had failed and wasn’t circulating the water 🤣,, I did unblock a small pipe that comes off the top of the radiator,, this was really blocked and really helped with the pressure,, but I leave for 2-3 days I can here the pressure releasing from the cap. Have to release the pressure every morning sometimes it seems like a lot but other than times it’s next to nothing. Most of the time I can’t squash the pipes it’s that solid 🤣🤣. I even put a head gasket sealer in and that didn’t help,, hoping blocked radiator or dodgy thermostat is causing an airlock or something,, as it doesn’t overheat no coolant loss just this excess pressure ??? thanks mate I’ll defo check the heater thing on YouTube

Good morning peeps,,, still having issues with coolant pressure ?? still don’t top it up and no smoke or gunk in oil,, but I’ve purchased a new radiator, new thermostat housing, new expansion tank, new auxiliary water pump (for heater apparently 🤷🏻‍♂️didn’t know it had one),, and I still need to fit them 🤣,, but I still sometimes don’t get heat from my heater even though it’s on full HOT???? I was wondering if anyone would know what the matrix would look like ?? Seems a few variations,, but apart from take the side off and looking (which I should do) wondered if anyone would have an idea thanks peeps oh 2010 2.0 tdi VRS CEGA engine

Well I bought a block test kit and put it on this morning,, definitely need to go and get it checked properly but done twice with same results 😢😢that’s the blue colour it should be and it says if it turns yellow gases are present,, in a diesel it my turn green/yellow 😢😢,, oh dear looks green to me,,

Morning peeps,, right after a bit of googling and not been able to get sniff test due to they can’t do a diesel lol,, I searched tinternet and came across some guy that said to check the pipe from the top radiator hose that goes back to the expansion tank as inside there is a valve or something that gets blocked and won’t allow air stuck in coolant to escape my pipe was blocked so I unblocked it filled back up left cap off and let the fans kick in 3 times to make sure I’d got out the air,, I now only have minimal pressure in a morning when I release the cap and the temp gauge now takes a lot lest time to read 90 degrees,, this is the pipe it goes behind the air intake and the air box you can just see a slight hump in the pipe where valve is,, I’ll keep an eye on it for a while but hopefully this has solved my issue thanks peeps

My VRs doesn’t show me oil pressure just coolant temp,, I just wondered if your coolant wasn’t circulating or you had air stuck in system if this would maybe cause issue with high oil temperature readings,, mine never went above 90 whilst driving according to dash gauge only when sat stationary and only on my live data reading, the dash gauge never moved ever but like I said mine seems to have excessive pressure and not circulating properly due to air in system,, just wondering if you have air stuck in oil cooler rad thus showing high temperature,, maybe

Morning mate,, I'm having a similar issue with my 20tdi vrs CEGA engine 2010,, 1st is mine doesn’t over heat stay around 90 degrees and never really moves up or down but my live data reading says whilst driving 90deg but will read drops and rises in temp,, I seem to have a lot of pressure and when cold if I remove the cap the coolant spits out the bottle,, I’m taking to a garage to do a sniff test to see if it is head gasket (if it’s possible on a diesel) I did a Google search as you do haha and whilst looking I came across a YouTube video showing that in a little thin hose that comes off the top radiator hose on radiator and kinda goes back to the expansion tank has some kinda plastic thing inside and gets bunged up,, I took the pipe off and could not blow down or suck air through this pipe, so I tied flexing it where the plastic is and whacked it on the ground and some gunk came out allowing me to blow down it to make it clear,, flushed out the pipe re fitted and proceeded to run the car upto temp,, apparently the pipe allows any trapped air to then be forced into the expansion tank and not into the radiator (not sure if true but I have nothing to lose hahaha) anyway car got upto temp and I noticed a lot of bubbles now coming back into the tank,, got to 90deg coolant raised in the tank and spat some out then settled down, left it running until fans kicked in (98 degrees roughly) coolant again raised up and leaked out slightly so left running until fans kicked in again and that seemed to help as it didn’t spit out this time, (kept topping up coolant after spitting it out) so I put cap back on went for a quick 4 mile spin, parked up popped bonnet and checked pipes for pressure, they was pretty had to press in,, just been and took dog for walk this morning and then proceeded to pop bonnet to check on pressure in system (do this ever morning to release pressure),,, I could normally not push the pipes in as it still had a lot of pressure and if I took the cap off coolant spat everywhere even though it was cold,, but this morning I could squeeze the pipes (top and bottom radiator hoses) together and when I released the cap next to no pressure and no coolant spat out,, still need to drive to work on Monday as it’s a 37 mile journey there and back to see if it still has high pressure or next to nothing (pinkie crossed this has helped) This is the pipe hopefully you can just see where it bulbs out just above the shadow of me phone hahaha,, like I said I could not blow through this pipe until I whacked it on the floor hahaha It goes from top radiator hose and goes behind the air intake on front and the air box not saying this is your issue but could be worth checking this pipe, I’m hoping it has seriously cured my issue of over pressurising due to not being able to release trapped air,,,

Good morning peeps,, suddenly my second issue has now turned up 🤣🤣could anyone shed any light on what this means and where to start looking ?? Inlet has been changed about a year ago due to swirl flaps practically hanging off,, I also fitted that metal bit to stop the motor over rotation,, lad I bought it said it needed fitting but he didn’t wanna take it all to bits to do it thanks peeps

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