xact64

I didn't mind removing the trims to do so but I did need a long "stick" to feed the cable through the headlining. From what I remember I added a female power connector (and a male power connector on my mic adapter) to the adapter cable between the HU and the car.

I did run a second cable to the overhead microphone because I didn't want the destroy the possibility to go back to an OEM solution but more importantly because my cable was not going to my HU but to the Telephone module underneath the passenger seat. My HU does have a 5v output but I chose to not rely on the output of the HU so I used a 12v to 5v converter (aliexpress) that I hooked into the 12v ACC of the car (behind the HU)

I know this question is quite old but I have seen similar questions on other forums and I had the same problem in my vw tiguan when installing an aftermarket headunit. The oem microphone is an active one and not compatible with aftermarket head units. The disadvantage of using a passive one (like the Nathanio suggested) is that the sound quality and sensitivity is quite bad if you install it in the overhead console. My solution was two add an extra (oem) cable running from the microphone to the headunit with a special adapter I created that will power the microphone. The original cable is still connected to the old bluetooth module but not connected anymore to the microphone. +---------------------------- (5 Volts) power supply (from usb or 12v to 5v converter) | 2k2 R1 | o------[+] 10uF ----o----- output |+ | CAPSULE (mic) 10k R2 |- | +----------------------o----- GND, and battery -ve This will power the microphone and filter out the signal for the head-unit