Peebs101

Been a while since I started this thread. Since I broke my leg Iv had some down time to finish this job. Iv had them powder coated and a rebuild kit. Accompanied with Breaded lines all to go on when I'm able to take a wheel off. My front discs and pads are due anyway, pretty sure they might be original. I bought it with 11000miles (now 65000) in 2023 anniversary never done the front brakes. Mk5 golf calipers from scrappie £40 Rebuild kit £40 Powder coating £100 Breaded lines £90 (front and rear with new banjos) Brembo grooved discs and pads (£100 on autodoc) Still cheaper than a disc and pad change in a garage 😂.

I ended up going to my local D&A factor's, I get a discount on my account and I got a steel bodied master for 40 odd quid iirc and they had it on the shelf. Pretty sure I wrote it in here earlier.

My only reason for skipping the master is my local garage had just fitted a new master to vw caddy and the job ended up well over 300 quid (180 quid for master from tps, plus labour) When I did it myself, daylight robbery came to mind. And everyone told me it would be the slave, which it was. But I still did my master first out of hope and cause I did it myself

I would completely agree with @J.R.on this one. But personally I'd skip the master, it's only false hope 😄. It will be the slave

@yetiboy70What gear box is in it? The 6 speed manual?

Thanks @Schtum iv ordered a pair of calipers and carriers from them 👌

Do you have the part number for the carrier you fitted? I don't want to buy a cheap one off ebay. I have similar discs and pads waiting to go on mine once I get the carriers

I have ordered a carrier bracket with the number you supplied yesterday so we will see if you are correct in a few days. But i suspect the bracket I have ordered is the same as the previous one I had months ago and won't fit.

Well that confirms i definitely don't have the 280x22 discs as my carriers un bolt from the hub.

I put the mapco bracket back ages ago. Couldn't tell you what the hole measurement was. I can measure the holes spaces on the hubs that iv got

I bought one of these and tried it as it said its for the the 170. Couldn't tell you what the holes were but the holes were to far apart on the new carrier.

As you say I must have the 280x22. But 100 percent my carriers are not built on to the hubs like your picture. Mine unbolt seperatley so not sure where that hub is from. So if I sourced a pair of the 170's hubs and carriers to suit. Would they bolt straight in with the drive shafts and wheel bearing?

I also checked autodoc and a few sites. Mostly 22mm thickness and 280mm discs come up. There is the odd 288mm by 25mmm but 99% of suggestions are 280mmx22mm

I will do some looking and see what I can see. But surely VAG didn't only fit this brake setup to a yeti and a golf R? The CR150 has the vag diesel "ea288" which is super popular across tiguan's, A5's, Karoq's etc. Surely one of those use the hubs and bigger brakes?

I have bought and tried the carriers from the 170 and they do not fit. Bolt holes are incorrect. So your theory doesn't add up unfortunately. The discs and pads fit no problem, but not the carrier

I have a a CR150 yeti and on my search here and YOC I can only see the that people upgrade the CR140 upgraded to the CR170. Can the same be done one the CR150? I believe I purchased the right carrier but it didn't fit. Can any one send me a link to the carrier I need or tell me I'm wasting my time. Thanks

Going by that video my one didn't have any play like that in at all. But it didn't sound as smooth as his did in the video so it could well be the DMF on its way out. If it gets worse, I'll know what I'll be doing next but iv done like 400 miles in it and all seems well

D DMF was fine before i removed the box and car only done 27000 Surely there would some sort of vibrations if the dmf was about to give up?

I'll check the pipe coming out the housing, thanks JR. Hopefully just goes away with some driving, it's not loud or annoying. Thought I'd missed a dodgy release bearing or something

So I took the yeti out of my normal drive yesterday and all seemed okay until I stopped at traffic lights and i could hear a small noise from the gearbox when it was in neutral and clutch pedal released. Noise goes away when the clutch is pressed It doesn't always happen either. Sometimes i can hear it sometimes i can't but only when stopped in neutral and pedal released. Car runs and drives perfect, no vibrations or juddering. Sounds like a bearing to me? When I removed the box I didn't interfere with the clutch or DMF. It remained bolted in. Have I reassembled the slave and or box incorrectly? Do you have any thoughts @J.R.? You mentioned you hoped the dimensions on the new slave were correct?

Thats good to hear! I was thinking to myself it's only a matter of time before it gives up and I get to beat my 6 hours haha. But everything else was solid. Actually mine did have the tiniest wet patch running from it. But, this could of been from the many times iv bled it and dribbled with my drain hose and run down the slave arm. All though it did look like it was leaking out from the back seal. I picked up my slave cylinder at D&A factor's because it was close. It was a full steel body which I was really impressed with as the oem one was 2 piece plastic as you mentioned. It only cost me £60.

Hey Everyone, Finally managed to get this job done today. Box was in and out, clutch bled etc in 6 hours so wasn't to bad at all really. Hopefully that's it happy. Question.... When I had the Box off I visually checked the clutch and the DMF. I tried turning the DMF and it had about 1" of rotation back and forth. Is this normal?? Last time I fitted a 4x4 dmf it was solid (couldn't be turned by hand) when the pressure plate was bolted in and the old one that was knackered just spun freely.

Did you do the work yourself or did a garage do it? Cheers

Hey Guys, Car is 2016, 2.0 liter, deisel, 4x4, 6 speed manual with 27500 miles on it So the other day my clutch started acting up, soft pedle, having to pull it up with my feet etc etc. So after some research on the Internet its likely to be the slave cylinder INSIDE the gear box. But I went ahead and changed the master as its a fairly easy job compared to the slave. But alass my peddle has went soft again, all though I wasn't able to get the best pedle in the first place. Could I have incorrectly bled it? Anything iv missed before I have to rip the box out

Hey, thanks for your reply. I am just leaving the headlight until it pops as I'm not spending 120 to 160 quid to possibly fix it. I'm pretty sure the headlight isn't "dancing" because the light module is damaged or not working. Passes mot, so it will be fine 🤣