Peebs101

Hello Everyone, I'm back again! 😂🤦‍♂️ My passenger side headlight (bi-xenon) has started to flicker every so slightly. It happens stationary and whilst driving, in the "auto" mode and the "on" mode. No change between them. The colour is also different to the driver side When I bought the car it said the "headlight cornering" isn't available. The driver side does its dance but not the passenger. Iv read through some previous thread. Could it just be a new set of zenon bulbs? Any ideas what the cornering fault is? No faults come up on my OBDII I look forward to your advices

Thanks for that explanation JR. That makes sence, I'm learning the basics of auto electrics in this thread So say my MM is between 0.1 and 0.2 and the circuits were 0.5/0.6 the readings were between 0.4/0.5ohns. So when checking car electrics I'm looking for anything under 1 ohms? Infinity is obviously a break. what if the cable is damaged but not broken, would that just read over 1ohm on the MM? Thanks for the lesson 🤣

Thanks toot! I didn't know it had that so thanks. Clearly didn't change my last one either and it was 90000miles 🤣

Can you explain shorting the probes? Is that the buzzing on the multimeter? Because that's what I did with all the cables going to the ad blue and it was still showing an open circuit. One cable was blackened but still buzzing out. I had to check resistance in case the cables were damaged I think the problem was worse because of my own doing not sorting the problem immediately instead of running down the miles 🤦‍♂️ Yeh sorry it comes up on my MM as 0.50 / 0.60. Forgot the important decimal Yeh i knew it was a write off before I bought it and had some cosmetic stuff that was insignificant. I also knew something would pop up inside the first few months with such little miles on it. This is my first salvage purchase for the very reason you mention, resourceful way to get an up to date car and its pretty much the same as my last one that got written off. So I have some understanding of it from doing timing belt etc on the last one. Iv also serviced the car and topped up all the fluids. Will probably change out all the fluids (gearbox, diff, brakes) by the end to the month just to be safe since its pretty cheap to do.

I was told by a friend which works a lot on auto electrics I'm looking for .5/.6 ohms. I know house electrics are .2 ohms that's why I confirmed with him what I'm looking for. All the cables I tested had results between .5/.6 ohms and yes they "beeped" It is a front end Cat D write off from 2017 which was profesionaly finished. It carries some damage and a few surprises as you say but I got a 2 owner L&K yeti with 11500 miles on it for under 9k so I'm happy with the car for the money. Certainly saves 300 a month car finance 🤣

I think I got away with the tow bar, I never had a trailer on it and it looks new so I doubt they had anything on it either. Hopefully a bullet dodged

So even though these are cheap replacements they shouod be okay? Until they leak that is haha?

Hey guys, another update on this Spent all day on it yesterday, Firstly I started by ripping out that bloody tow bar! It was wored directly into the lights with no smart relay or anything. So it's gone and wiring original again. Next I un plugged the ECU and traced both wires back, then checked resistance in both, both cables between 50 / 60 ohms. Seems all okay. Although the cable that was broken was pretty black for a couple feet so not in the best shape. I will repair this properly. I started turned the engine on and still getting the code and at this point iv eliminated the wiring so it's either pump or something needing reset on the VCDS. Phoned my brother in law to see if he could put it on his computer and on the way to the garage, it bloody reset itself and everything went off. So my problem appears fixed, I think?? Most unsatisfying end to a problem, but I don't care But of strange one this problem, but on inspection i got see what kind of car I bought. -Ad blue tank has taken a hit, hence the broken wire - to rear lights non Chinese replacements -tow bar wired by a monkey -rear body work has been carried out For a 11500 mile 1 owner ar, it has some history 🤣🤣

The lights I have here don't have any vag or skoda markings and made by some Chinese company. Will these lights still work okay without interference?

So I repaired the wire that I suspected that broke. I also buzzed out the terminalz on all 3 plugs from inside the car where it looks untouched. No change again, BUT.... I have found more strange wiring and it looks like the tow bar has been wired straight into the back lights AND both rear lights are not OEM LED lights, they have bulbs in every slot so sure there not even LED replacements. Not a wiring expert but pretty sure this can cause strange things to happen when lights are just spliced into like that? I had my previous yeti tow bar installed by company that puts in a proper module for it? Could this be my problem?

A little update on this.... So I did everything in the previous post and even changed out the ad blue pump with a replacement from ebay with no change. So I lay under the car stumped and notice the sheeth around the cable isn't normal and also notice strange washers holding the ad blue tank on and the plug for the ad blue pump was broken. Further inspection leads me to believe the car has had a rear end and someone has just put a sheeth over the cables but haven't clipped them on to anything and I have a couple of broken wires. Didn't have time to go any further but will have an answer tomorrow hopefully

Before I topped it up I did not receive any top up warning with the yellownjug on its own. The yellow jug and spanner came on with the EML light and 650 miles to no start. I then topped it up with no success. Since then I have drained the tank and replaced 1.5 liters. As I said I will top up to the minimum (4.5/5 liters) to ensure but this was not this issue on the first place. In my opinion anyway

Thanks, I'll check that out

Just gave this a good read, So far I'm going to put at least 4.5 liters in the tank so the tank reguster a new amount. If that fails, I need to check the inline heater as thus is easy to do. If that fails, wait till new pump arrives and try that. If that fails, its something to do with the sending unit and not sure that is serviceable, don't suppose you have the workshop manual for it as well? So I can see how it's removed

This is the message I got whilst I was driving.... I didn't get a top up sign just this message with the engine management light. I took this off another forum, its not my photo

Do you know if that can be changed out or is it a new tank needed? I notice there is a plug going to the ad blue feed line, could that he at fault? Would a paper clip test work to find out as it's only 2 pins?

I had a read and I think it's definitely a sensor that's went in it. As it didn't say the adblue needed topping up. It just came on straight away with yellow jug and spanner below it. (I then topped it up to rule that out, using approx 4 liters so it wasn't needing topped up) My issue is finding the sensor at fault, I have a new pump en route to rule that out. Failing that, what else can it be? Can the level sensor be replaced or is it a new tank?

Yeh iv seen a lot of posts saying it takes ages. I can't say I had any issues with my previous model with that but iv only got 30 miles before it the engine won't start

Is that inside the tank or connected to the pump?

I did the same as I did in my previous yeti, I just added it until it was just below the filler Right now the indicator on the dash that says range it says 30 miles in small writing below it says min 1gal max 1gal. I forgot to mention I added another 500ml to see if it would change. Everytging read the same? Would the yellow spanner stay on also?

Hey guys and gals, I bought myself another yeti as my last one was written off and Iv done approx 3k. The ad blue warning came on and said 650miles until no start. The car is 2.0l diesel and now only 14000miles from new. This is my investigation so far..... -I topped it up just to make sure it wasn't that which it wasn't -I plugged in my OBDII reader and got the code P208a (reductant pump circuit open) -I checked the injector on the exhaust in case it was blocked, it wasn't. Looked very clean - I removed the ad blue pump from the tank and drained the tank, gave the pump a little blow out with an airline and I also sprayed all the connections with electrical spray then replaced and put approx 1 liter of ad blue back in The yellow spanner went away leaving only the top up sign on but shortly came back. I have a 2nd hand pump on its way as a new one is £450. Could it have anything to do with the tank level sensor? Any help would be much appreciated and sorry for the novel

@Urrellthanks man, do you have a link where I could buy it from? Sounds a plan, my car is past 80k now so just trying to keep her running nice.

Cheers 🤦‍♂️🤣

I thought I'd give everyone an update on this.... On one of usual long runs yesterday I decided to give it a chance to regen. So I sat in 4th about 65ish 2800rpm ish for about 20 minutes to make sure.i had all ready been running for 20 mins and everything nice and warm by that point. By the end of the 20 mins I was getting 41.1mpg in 4th. On my way home the mpg went up to like 48mpg @ 74mpg which is pretty normal for me. Seems like the car is behaving again, wait and see if it wants a regen anytime soon. Still feels a little sluggish but @Schtumhas kindly offered me to race him and see if i can keep up 🤣🤣🤣.

Hey @rhadoo14 , did you get any further forward with this?