lazerous

Thanks, glad it was some use

Just to add one point to above, although the passenger air bag wasn't removed, I did loosen the 3 screws securing it in position via the top box opening, and switched the bag off during dash manoeuvring. Obviously retightened at end of job

Needed to change a failed Heater Fan on Fabia 2 and looking at the web and forum saw that removing the dash and steering wheel was one of the recommendations, others said no need to remove steering wheel, and two said they had done it without doing either but gave little detail. First two methods are quite correct and probably what dealers/independents charge for Not wanting to remove dash as I usually end up breaking something else along the way I explored the alternative so decided to remove all dash fixings to the left (from a LINE at RHS of Radio). Plan was to then prize the end of dashboard out to hopefully get the Fan out via bottom of glove box Remove oblong shaped surrounding radio, remove Radio 4 screws, unplug cables, 4 more screws and pull off the horseshoe shroud that goes round the radio. 2 Screws behind that fix dash to steel removed. No need to touch air con panel above, no need to remove pollen filter, no need to remove passenger air bag cover or air bag, but switch it off at key switch at LHS just in case Remove top box cubby lid 2 screws. Inside lower cubby hole remove the small round plastic plug and remove another fixing screw I drilled a 12mm hole in this plastic towards top and lhs to gain ¼ inch driver access to top LH Fan screw, see later At LHS of dash remove end cover and small cover at bottom front, remove 2 screws located on lower section of panel facing passenger seat, and 2 screws accessed through aperture once end panel removed It is now possible to pull back the dash carefully, checking you haven’t missed a fixing, and it’s possible to generate a gap off approx. 2 inches in which to place a wooden chock. Sounds risky but it all went back OK on rebuild Now under dash, very awkward and on your back twisting etc., undo the 3 small torx Fan fixing screws which you can access from this positon. Then at the top of fan via the 12mm hole you have drilled access the top LH torx screw and remove. Using ¼ inch driver and universal swivel, taped so as to restrict angular movement remove the Fan top RHS torx screw working through top glove box aperture Back underneath now to unplug one largish electrical connector attached to Fan casing and the main 2 wire connector to Fan Now tug on Fan, it will come loose, and then pull on the lower edge of glovebox panel to gain that bit of extra space and remove the old Fan. It is very tight but it can get through Make a brew The new Fan will come with screw holes that make the original torx screws a rattle fit so no good for refitting etc as they will fall out and you already have poor access. I folding some thread tape, put it in each hole and screwed each of the torx screws in a few turns so they would retained whilst you wrestle the new Fan into position Once Fan in tighten bottom torx screws, then back to top using the drilled hole to align drivers with LH screw and through top glove box for RH screw If you don’t manage to get all Fan screws in I wouldn’t worry as Fan casing structure is fairly rigid and neatly clips into place, plus no great air pressure generated as it’s an open ended system Reckon no more than 2 hours to complete, but you must have a good set of ¼ drives, extensions, torch, etc. but well within a good DIY fixer talent, and not suffering a bad back