Niccolo

There are two valves in the fuel intake. You can see the top one which moves as you push the fuel nozel into place. I'm our situation the lower one was stuck so only allowing fuel to trickle past. £120 for garage to listen it up. It has made a huge difference, 4 minutes to fill tank instead of 15. So still not working fully but much better.

Try locking and leaving it a few minutes before opening the drivers door. The alarm seems to have a delay.

I have just posted a similar problem and found this. Can you say how to do this, where do you access the breather pipe? Thank you.

My 1.6 diesel 2017 has central locking from the key. The driver's door will fail to lock or unlock intermittently. The car thinks it is locked/unlocked and the alarm works as normal. All other doors work. I can use the key and manually it will always lock/unlock the drivers door and trigger the central locking and alarm. So I suspect a mechanical failure with a component that physically engages the lock. Any suggestions on this and or changing it?

I have a 2017 1.6 diesel. Ever since I bought it when I refuel I have to just pull the trigger and no more, I can lock 1 1/2 fingers under it and watch the fuel slowly trickle in. Any more and the pump clicks off. Several people have tired, nozzle has been tried all the way in to just the tip, at different angles and pressures, no difference at all. I have searched and not found any solution with suggestions of. Fuel filler breather pipe Fuel tank breather valve Any resources on how to check these?

I have fixed it. I stripped the cowel off the steering column. You need a no 25 star drive. Undo the screw on the underside of the column. Then unclipped the upper section, it will flip up. You will see two more screws, remove these and the lower section can be taken out the way. There are two silver small screws infront if the stalk base, take these out. Unclipped the surround round the stalk, it has two clips infron and the circle of plastic round the slake comes free. Split the stalk with a small flat head screwdriver. The back comes off. You can now wangle the wires out. Unplug it from the column, a small clip and pull. You can now join the broken wires and reassemble. Use a crimp if you have one but don't join at the break, this is where pressure is and it passes through the stalk. The wires are too short and so they are tight against the plastic. I used the smallest electrical block connector, shaved off the excess plastic so it fitted in the stalk and used a bigger one at the other end where there is loads of room.

The garage put it onto their diagnostics. The error that came up was sensor error, they cleared the error. The car has been washed before they checked but after the initial fault. After this they drove it, cruise controll will not activate. The new behaviour as documented above occurs. No errors appear on their diagnostics after this even though a warning light comes on when signaling left with the cruise control switch on. This happens even if parked. Does not happen with the switch off.

Garage cleared errors on computer. These were sensor errors. The distance sensor does work and warns if too close to vehicle in front. Now the cruise control still does not work. Just no response to toggle switch. However if the switch is on and I signal left I get the error symbol of orange speed indicator with an arrow and exclamation mark. This goes away when the left indicator is cancelled or cruise control turned off. This is standard cruise not adaptive.

This is a 2017 model. It used to work. The cruse control button does nothing. There are no error lights on the dashboard. I opened the stalk to see if the unit connectors needed cleaning but this one is hard soldered in place. I can't find which fuse is involved and as far as I know nothing else has stopped working Help?

The fuse is red 40A

When I started the car today and released the handbrake I noticed the (P) light still on. Then it flickered. The levere is down but instead of being firmly in place there is a give and kind of bounce. If I push it down the light goes off but it is still bouncy, feels wrong. There is no sound of brakes being on or feel of any driving performance. Really feels like the lever isn't locking place. When I actually put it on it works as normal.

The battery was the problem. There's nothing wrong with it as far as I know but it seems to need to be fully charged or the dashcam caused the problem to come up.

Thank you for all the responses. I've tried it with the 12v socket plug and pulling out the piggyback from the fuse box, the problem remains. I have not tried the 12v plug with the other end pulled out of the dashcam. I'll send photos of the setup. Will search online for people with same problem with this dashcam, will also be looking for dashcam setups that are know good for this vehicle or just any stop start system. A possible problem with this dashcam is it is 5V 2.5A so is drawing 12.5 watts of power? Could this be too high a draw no matter how it is wired up or would a new hardwired kit first, such as the Power Magic Pro help? I'd rather not be buying dashcams speculatively. These are a bit pricy.

This is the dashcam. I have not tried a different one, note the problem persists if only the hardwired cable is attached, I pulled the USB end out of the dashcam and the still has the problem.

Thanks for your suggestion. If I just wire in the hard wire cable and don't plug it into the dashcam it still causes the problem, so if there is a problem with the dashcam that won't show until I sort the cable issue. I can't use the fuse for the 12v socket as that is permanently live and would drain the battery. I tried 3 fuse positions and currently have it piggybacked on a headlight.

Hello everyone, this is my first Skoda and my first post. Thank you for this forum, I've found so much great advice on it already and it allowed me to narrow things down. We just got an 2017 facelift Octavia Mk3 1.6 diesal estate. And love it. The start stop system was working until I attached the dashcam from our previous car. I've tried hard wiring to different fuses and using the 12v plug. When the dashcam is plugged in we get the power consumption too high warning. This disappears if I pull the 12v plug. I have to pull the piggyback fuse as well, not just disconnected from the camera. The dashcam is the type that attaches to the rear view mirror, which I like because it is discrete. Previous car was broken into to steal a visible £90 tom-tom, probably worth about £10. So I'm a bit worried about leaving a clearly visible dascam. So how can I fix this? Some better hardwire connector or new dashcam?