Edvinac

It might be actually better thing to check the resistance at the CEM connector rather than the sensor itself since it will cross off the sensor and cables as faulty. Has anyone actually tryed digging to the CEM of the octavia? Is it behind the fuse box?

I actually really have to take a look at the temperature sensor, because there was a lot of work done in the front of the vehicle which included removing the bumper. Also the electrician mentioned something about bypassing the temp sensor and the defogger still not working, not sure if this is possible. I have a hard time remembering if the sensor is in it's place, hopefully I can check by removing front bottom grill. (atleast that's the location that google states). Although the temp is displayed correctly on the dash. Thanks for getting into the schematics. S218 is actually windscreen heater button, and it uses the same cables as rear defogger and is working correctly so everything should be alright, dont you think? Or am I reading the schematic wrong? EDIT: IF ANYONE NEEDS ANY INFO/SCHEMATICS ON THEIR CARS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CONTACT ME, I WILL BE ABLE TO HELP OUT UNTIL AUTODATA LICENSE ENDS.

Hello again everyone, I was feeling that I own everyone a reply, was just postponing it because TL;DR have not yet fixed the issue. For clarification, there was a mistake in my previous post. The heating element is not opened. It is acutally reading 0,8 ohms (had to change the test leads because they were ****e). Have also voltage drop tested every line of the heating element, every line is in tact. no luck. (used a partner that forced the activation of the element through a diagnostic tool.) Also have checked if the auto hvac option is ticked in CEM through VCDS. All good. Have tryed another Climatronic(ac control unit) from friends mk3 skoda, nothing changed, pressing the button illuminated the LED on the button for 2seconds and turns off, does not activate the relay. Mine on the other hand worked on his car, so we can cross that out. Gave up, took it to an electrician that had loads of diagnostic tools, included VAG OEM one, after an hour, he still did not have an answer to this issue. I've suggested maybe disabling the start stop system could've disabled this heating function aswell, since the start stop is not working (disabled) and the car is seeing "high power consumption". So we decided that I should turn it on and try again. No results, start stop working as it should. the CEM also senses a temperature sensor, so we decided to try it in a cold morning which yielded no results. He also did some adaptations as he mentioned, but I have no idea what exactly. Totally lost at this point, maybe I should try and take it to a VAG-specific electrician. Also, managed to grab a few licenses of AutoData from my university and have the electric schematic in my hand. Attaching it right here if anyone wants to analyze it. "vrs" is the vanilla one from AutoData, "vrsdiagrama" is the one I used for testing, basiclly i've marked cables in these colors: Red-Constant power; Blue-Switched power; Green-Constant ground; Yellow-Constant ground. Main components (written in PDF, but going to mention them anyway): K13-Rear window defrost relay; A63-buttons for the defroster for front and rear windows; A11-CEM (central electric module); F53-30amp fuse for constant power to defroster F7-10amp fuse for constant power to relay activation (this fuse is responsible for a lot of multiple things) 30-battery +; 31-ground. If I am correct, I am currently having an issue where the click of the rear defroster button does not activate ground from CEM to the rear defroster relay to activate it (yellow line on my poorly drawed diagram). The electrician also mentioned it's too soon for a failing control module (?) Appreciate all ideas. Edvinas. vrs.pdf vrsdiagrama.pdf

I did, at the connection points, the last option was the only one that gave a reading. those connections are soldered, might have to try and resoldering them. But still, I am confused how can an open heater element cause the defroster button to not activate the relay. I would not be surprised if the fuse on the power line to the heater would be burned, but that is not the case. I am really intrigued with the problem in my system and hope it won’t lead me to a faulty module, and hope it has something to do with the grid.

I am just not sure if I have tested the heater as it should be tested, a quick google search lead me to various alternative ways of testing the grid (heating element), and finding a line that is open (it is easily repairable thankfully), the problem now is that all the methods actually check the voltage drop off between the grid, but I cannot proceed with this method since the car does not even supply the voltage to the grid since it senses the open circuit (I think? I am not sure, I think if one grid was broken, the defogger should continue to work and just the lines that are open would not be heated). Since the only way I managed to get voltage to the grid is via diagnostic test, I will probably do a throughout visual check and if that does not help, get a mate that could activate the test continously and then check the voltage drop off. Hope the problem lies here. Hoping to reach a solution soon for future members encountering similiar problems. Updating soon. edit: also found a test for the rear defroster relay in the diagnostic tool test section, which activates the relay continously ten times and it passed with flying colours.

Ok so for an update. Managed to grab the codes which lead me to nowhere. Also measured the resistance in the heating element for comparision if anyone will measure theirs

I will try to grab the codes and test the output to see if it is actually generating heat, both in one go. As for the resistance measurement, since base values are not stated anywhere a reading won’t help me much, that’s why I did not bother. Won’t know if it is off base values.

That would be awesome, just not sure how to interpret this information, how could the resistance change in the heater element (to make a diffrence)? If it had burned, would it not just be cut off somewhere, reminding that I have done the continuity test. Also you will probably have to remove the plastic trim around the perimeter to access these contacts (they are on clips, no screws). And there are more than two connections on the glass, so make sure if you are measuring to document in between which contacts the resistance is measured. I am also in the process of getting AutoData license from my ex-University I have studied in, we had access to it while studying, hope the teachers are in the mood to lend a single login the diagrams should be helpfull. Thank you very much again, Kev.

So I can confirm everything works as intended, with the remote to open the tailgate it unlocks only the tailgate, after you close it, everything remains locked. Gotta mention that had to do this with two people, since the boot automaticlly unlocks even on a locked car, if you stand close to it and press the open button while having the keys in your pocket (keyless entry system).

I will try this and return with results, thank you very much, Kev!

that is interesting and logical, although I do not get an error message while driving that my trunk is open Edvinas

Can't get my hands on the proper diagnostic right now, but it is an option. Does anyone have access to something like autodata electric schematics and could help out? Would like to dig deeper and figure out how is the button and relay connected and what could be interfiering. Are there any special conditions for the rear glass defrost to work?

Skoda octavia mk3 hatch 2015 vrs 2.0 tsi with dsg Hello guys, so I have encountered a problem that I cannot get to the root of: Rear window defroster does not work from the panel button. Pressing the button causes it to light up for a few seconds and turns off. Does not activate the relay. The front window heater button does activate it's on seperate relay. Tryed switching both of these relays, and the situation stayed, pressing rear defroster turns on the button light for a few seconds, no relay noise again, front window heater activates relay, (so relay is ok I guess) 30 amp fuse is ok. Very confused. Using a non-deticated VAG diagnostic tool (Thinkdiag) made the actuation test of the rear window defroster and that did activate the relay and I get power at the defroster wires. Very confused. Ground is ok, the heating element in the window is not open, proven by tester. Can anyone help me with this issue? The car has been rear ended slighty, the bootlid was changed, the original glass and wiring was transplanted to this new boot, everything is plugged in. Thank you in advance.

Weirdly enough my car is not equipt with driving modes (no vrs button on the centre console), nor any modes in the infotainment. All I can do is set the DSG box to sport via the shifter. Is this normal for VRS because I was really surprised that I am missing this button and only noticed after buying it.

I have not found the adjustment in the infotainment screen, under what menu does this option exist? I am currently not considering a res delete, since I do fair bit of cruise driving out of the city, how about changing out the resonator for an aftermarket one for starters, I’ve seen you can immediatly start gearing the dsg “farts”, but not really sure about the overall sound if it’s even audible.

Hello guys I am a proud owner of 2015 Skoda Octavia VRS220 Hatch. The drive is pure joy, but something is missing for me, and I have figured it out! It's the pumped engine sound into the cabin and the exhaust, I've started looking into exhaust options, a lot of threads on the forum and I have a few questions: 1. Has anyone gone the route of just upgrading their resonator/mufflers instead of buying those crazy expensive prebuilt exhaust systems? Non-brand and some lesser brand components cost 50-100 Euro each here (resonator, sport muffler), so we are looking into upto 200-300 Euros all in for upgrading the exhaust note all in (not doing the downpipe right now). All my cars I've driven have had exhausts and this is the approach I used for all of them and they have been excellent without spending more than a hundred or few hundred euro. Currently looking into a Vibrant or Simons resonator and non-brand or lesser brand sport mufflers (two of them). Has anyone had any luck with this approach? Any video examples? All I can find are full systems that cost 700+ Euros. 2. How do you get rid of the pumped in sound into the cabin, I've come to realise you can't just reprogram it and have to physically remove it, am I correct? Cheers guys, have a good drive.