TheEpicBlob

Thanks - checked fuse and is intact. I noticed that the head unit now does display a temp starting at 50 and did rise slightly after a 5min idle; the only thing I did under the hood was jiggle, what I assume was, the coolant temp sensor (connector from the coolant reservoir). Will see what temps read after commute tomorrow, I’m sure I’ve never seen the temp change in the past!

Fan is definitely stationary, think it’s a crap video! It’s the same when the engine is running after a 40min drive (20mins motorway and then 20mins stop/start traffic), it’s not moving.

Thanks for the info. Something is up as it’s always 90c, even when starting from -10! There is a noise from the engine bay, I’ve tried to record what’s happening (or not!) I wonder if somehow the fan has become detached from the motor? There is something definitely rotating and it sounds like it’s from the radiator!

I know the head unit doesn’t display the temp of the engine (just always says 90), but no other temp display. It’s not that it’s running hot, just falling to bits, and I’m expecting something to fail _like_ the fan, so wanted to catch it before summer!

Thanks, I’ll go for a drive and check before I turn the engine off! No AC, unfortunately! There was something definitely running once engine was off, I could feel the coolant return vibrating. However, this could have just been something else vibrating, but I can’t really think what?

Hi all, I noticed today a ‘funny noise’ coming from engine bay when I turned car off. I had always put this down the radiator fan running after long/hot journeys, but noticed it wasn’t the fan (I believe the coolant pump) after I investigated. I then turned engine over, let it run for roughly 5 minutes, and checked the fan during, and to my surprise it didn’t move. Turn engine off, (I assume) coolant pump runs for 120 seconds and shuts off. Should the radiator fan always run when the engine is on, or is this only when reaching a certain temp? I’d have assumed it’d always be on with the engine, but only left running if still hot after engine off.

Have a look here! Had this same question! Fuse 3 (in 2012/2013 model) is always powered and is not a critical system (radio), so if comes loose from piggy back you’re not in too much trouble. Check your model and fuse is not essential though.

I’ve battled since getting my Dear Little Citigo (around 4 months) with a leaky rear washer. I’ve taken it to the garage who ‘fixed it’ with tape and yet a week later it retuned (this time with a vengeance). I’ve been lucky it didn’t cause damage to the boot locker/closed sensor. This weekend I decided I’d had enough and wanted to fix it, or at least state this problem in the eyes. Turns out, the pipe is completely broken and was repaired with some heat shrink. No tape in sight! It was a clean break, and easily fixed with an insert plug! I contemplated tearing all the way back to the attachment plug within the body of the car, but like most cars required disassembly of 90% of the trim. I’m more annoyed that they didn’t think to look up how to fix it and just bodged it - I wouldn’t have minded I’d they said “we’ve bodged it, you can order a new part or we can”.

Thanks for letting me know. I’ve done some extended testing and it appears that yes, fuse 3 is constantly powered!

Ah, thanks - does that mean if it’s switch off by CAN, it’ll kill the fuse, or is it further in from the fuse it gets switched? Ideally, I’d like a circuit that a) remains powered all the time and b) isn’t mission critical if the fuse piggyback pops out and leaves me driving in the dark!

Thanks - it lists the radio (38) as perm live - I wonder if it did work but battery is pants and just tripped the power sensor?

Amazing, thanks @Breezy_Pete! Just to double check - this is for the 2011 -2015 version? If so, 26 is showing as unused on the diagram so may be able to use that!

I did some tests, and it looks like the radio stays powered on (it doesn’t, more on this later). I’ve got a 2012 model, so only the single fuse panel in the drivers footwell. Tested the radio by being in the car, locking with fob and turning radio on - it remains on. The issue I believe is: it only stays on for 30 or so minutes and turns off radio circuit. So, more research is required for an always on/hot/battery connected fuse/circuit!

Hi all, Yet another fuse question! I’m looking at hardwiring a dash cam in the next few days. I’d like an always on fuse (the hardwire kit has under voltage protection). I’m considering wiring into the hazard lights, but would like to know if there’s a less ‘mission critical’ fuse that can be used? Otherwise, the hazard lights I believe would work, assuming they don’t need to be on for it to power the dash cam (think I’ll be pulled over before long!) - does anyone know of the fuse to use? I can’t seem to find anything in the diagrams that specifically lists the hazard lights or something else that’s always on.