CzechPassat

So the most likely scenario is that the spare wheel of a different size was fitted for a while due to a puncture.

Different size tyres on the same axle is an MOT failure, Different size tyres front/rear is not a failure or an advisory. I could be that the spare wheel of a different size was fitted for a short period due to a puncture, that would still warrant an MOT failure. Different rolling diameter will mean the diff has to work a bit harder and it might cause damage depending on how much the difference in rolling diameter is, how long and how the car was driven. If I was really bothered I might change the transmission oil as a precaution, but wouldn't lose sleep over it.

Searching for information on how to remove the Swing Radio from my Superb 2 I cam across this thread and found it a bit confusing so I thought I'd clarify the removal method of you have the Swing radio fitted to a Superb 2. The bezel you need to remove is part of the radio, it's the gloss black part that goes around the display and controls. It is not the outer bezel as found on some other models, no amount of prying is going to get an outer bezel off as it's part of the radio, you'll just damage the radio or dash and still not be able to remove the radio. Here's a photo of what the radio looks like with the bezel removed giving access to the 4 tox screws you need to remove.

Ordered mine from the local Skoda dealer £38, ready for collection the next day.

TMBBD73T4A018316 Thank you

The rear parking sensors on my Superb 2 Greenline Saloon/hatch don't like the rain. VCDS says its the left outer and left inner sensors that have failed (probably don't like getting water into them. Does anybody know the part numbers for these sensors? I'm not sure whether they are both the same part number as I haven't dismantled yet to have a look.

Update. I replaced the complete clutch about 4 weeks ago and installed another new slave cylinder. So far so good, no more issues with air in the system, no fluid leaks and the clutch itself is much lighter. I hadn’t realised how heavy the old clutch was but this was probably the original fault, the heavy clutch put additional strain on the hydraulic system and the plastic slave cylinder was drawing in air before it finally let go.

Success! I reinstalled the old switch on the new master cylinder and everything works as it's supposed to. Looks like the new master cylinder came with a faulty switch. Many thanks to Breezy Pete for providing the information I couldn't find elsewhere.

Some progress made today. I bench tested my old master cylinder switch with it fitted to the old master cylinder. All seems to work as it should producing a 12v trigger to the ECU. I plugged it into the car and secured it under the bonnet with a couple of cable ties still attached to the old master cylinder. Went for a drive and for the first time I get a gear indicator on the dash, telling me what gear I'm in and an arrow indicating that I should change up/down. But the cruise still didn't work. Working on the theory that the ECU needs to see the trigger appear when you change gear, rather than just be there all the time, I extended the loom into the car so that I could operate the old Master Cylinder and switch while driving. Success, the cruise engaged and disengaged exactly as expected. Conclusion at this point is that either the new switch on the new master cylinder is faulty, so I will refit the old switch on the new master cylinder tomorrow in the hope that it works. Such a pain getting to the bottom of the master cylinder to change the switch as there is so little space between the engine and bulkhead. I'm considering removing the bottom engine mount so that I can pull the engine forward and gain a few extra cm.

Thanks Pete, makes sense now I’ve read it properly!

Took me a little longer to replace the clutch than I expected, doing it on my back on the driveway. Replaced the slave cylinder (again) as the old heavy clutch had caused it to fail. I've checked fuse 22 and pin 5 for 12v with the engine running, it's all present and correct. Next question. How do I check operation of the hall effect clutch switch? Ideally I'd like to check the spare one I removed from the car and fit that if it all checks out OK. There are just 3 pins on the switch numbered 1, 2 and 5 with 5 having the 12v feed. Also a wiring diagram of the cruise system would be useful. Many thanks

3 weeks down the line and I've had no symptoms of air in the hydraulic system. However the slave cylinder let go today which is probably down to the clutch being rather heavy, probably due to an issue with the cover plate. I'm too old and rancid to do the clutch myself so getting the guys at the local trusted garage to do it, they say they have seen a stiff clutch have this affect before. An update in 2 weeks when the clutch is done and I'm back from the training course I'm going on.

I got as far as checking fuse 22 and it's all present and correct, I haven't got any further and am unlikely to have a chance to look at it for a couple of weeks as the clutch slave cylinder let go today. So I'm taking the opportunity to replace the clutch as the cover plate is causing a few issues. I'll be back with an update in 2 weeks.

Any ideas how to check the switch either on or off the car as I can't make sense of it?

I checked the plug yesterday and it seemed ok, but it is rather difficult to get to, so it’s possible, also possible the cable is damaged so further investigation required. On the other hand I did eventually get the clutch bled properly and it’s been fine since.

Borg and Beck, pic below

Came with a new switch. I still have the old master cylinder so could swap the switch or use it to test I suppose. Not looking forward to having to replace the master cylinder again

Well it didn't take as long as I thought. I have the following codes: 01546 for left and left middle parking sensors, seems intermittent as they don't like getting wet. 00470 Company Comfort Databus In Single Wire. 011 Open Circuit-Intermittent Checking the measuring blocks, the ones for the CC switch are all fine but it thinks the clutch pedal is permanently depressed, this would stop the CC engaging. I recently replaced the clutch Master Cylinder to cure the clutch pedal on the floor issue so not sure why this would have failed so quickly, seems unlikely it was a faulty unit.

I’m a VCDS novice so working through measuring blocks may take a while.

I have done a full scan and there are no errors anywhere. Haven't had a chance to look at it today so stay tuned and I'll dig a little deeper

Many thanks to Breezy_Pete for decoding the VIN, The car does have Cruise Control Now looking for a solution to get it working?

Been working through the list of jobs on the tatty 1.9 Greenline I bought a month ago. Having fixed all the ABS issues I expected the Cruise Control to start working but no luck. Another scan with VCDS and no errors showing anywhere (I've fixed everything). I'm not familiar with the Superb 2, I expected to find a module for Cruise Control, but none to be found. As it's fly by wire maybe it's in the Engine ECU? So far the only evidence that I might have Cruise Control is that there is a switch for it that doesn't do anything. Any help appreciated.

Let’s see what happens over the next few weeks? There’s not much else in the hydraulic system to fail.

I had the same thing with a 1.9tdi Passat a few years ago. Both the expansion tank and the rad were leaking, replaced them both and it still used water, no sign of leaking anywhere. It ran like that for at least another year before I sold it, never found out what it was, but yours seems to be leaking more water than mine was. Water can only disappear into 2 places. 1. It's leaking out 2. The engine is using it, a leak into the combustion chamber. One last thought. There is an oil cooler for the engine and another for the transmission (if it's an auto). I'm not sure of the arrangement on the Superb, but do either of these use water as the cooling medium? The water pressure will be higher than the oil pressure in either cooler, you may be filling your sump or (auto) transmission with water.

Took it for the MOT yesterday, on the drive there the clutch pedal was almost on the floor. I warned the tester of the issue with the clutch pedal but when he jumped in the pedal was just about perfect and has remained that way since. So problem solved.