jpadie

Why would the post cat lambda have any impact? By then the job is done, no? The trim levels are showing -12 so it feels like the car is running far too rich. The evap valve is solid, coolant sensor looks ok but am replacing it, injectors are not leaking but I'm also replacing those in case the springs are weak. No misfiring so sparks are likely to be ok. Timing is showing no material adaptation. Fuel rail pressure is top end at 4.3 bar which might be playing a part. Might also be the PCV valve. I don't think the cat is actually the problem. The short term trim suggests the engine is running mighty rich and perhaps the ECU can't trim enough to make the difference. Might change the map sensor but the manifold pressure looks squarely within normal ranges.

@Naedhult did you ever resolve this? I am facing the same issue.

Hi all the little skoda failed its MOT by the skin of its teeth. excess CO. I replaced the pre-cat lambda probe (had to grind it off and get a socket on it directly as none of lambda sockets slipped and the crows-foot snapped). no improvement in diagnostic readings and a test of channel 46 results in CATB1 NOK and P0420. Is this a new mani-cat situation? I can't see any cracks. thanks Justin

Hi All odd situation in that the rear doors no longer lock/unlock. front two are fine. is this a known fault and is there a wiring diagram that might help locate the looms? Given the bilateralism I am assuming that the problem is behind the dash. cheers Justin

it is simple if you just buy a whole new part! it's a sad indictment on the world that labour rates have risen so high that it encourages a throwaway and buy anew culture rather than fix. I used to live in france (for 25 years) and it was heartening to see so many cars from the 1960s and 70s still entirely happily on the road (pollution notwithstanding...)

thanks both they were indeed M10s. but I only had M8 replacement studs; so left them in after cleaning out the threads and applying copper grease. I had to reuse the nuts as well (same reason). They got a bath in citric acid and a scrubbing. Like you, @Alasdair1, the bolt for the metal exhaust hanger cracked off but luckily that was an M8 and I had those. the connection between the mid-box and the silencer was beyond repair. cranking on the nut just blew the carriage bolt socket out on the other side. an angle grinder solved those problems but one of the band clamps was so fatigued that it broke doing it back up. I had a spare D-clamp, thankfully. replacement bolt for the other band clamp came from one of the unneeded studs with two brass locking nuts. getting the front of the exhaust off was a 10 minute job in the end. the back was more like an hour. hopefully the car will pass its MOT now!

Update: I think these are studs and nuts. They might be spring studs too. I've ordered a batch of 10.9 M8 studs and nuts and assume I will have to drill out the old ones although I might try to split the nuts with a multi tool and reuse the studs.

Hi all My Skoda (now my daughter's) is coming back for a visit this weekend and to have the exhaust changed. Last time I looked at this I couldn't get the fasteners off between the manifold and down pipe. But I don't remember whether they were bolts or nuts or something else. Does anyone have any insight and tips for this job? What replacement parts are needed other than gasket (silent blocks are recently replaced). New bolts/nuts/studs? Are they copper or steel? And I assume they're M8/1.25.

thank you Pete. the transfer table definitely makes it easier! initial tests show no pd across any of the larger fuses. and the battery has floated back to 12.4. i'm giving it a full charge using a (supposedly) pukkah AGM charger then will leave the car for 18 hours to see what the voltage looks like.

the car does not have the start/stop. i know it's not the right thing but it's bought now and that's the disposable budget for Jan gone! yes - I can measure voltage across fuses. without knowing the resistance of the blades all it tells me, though, is whether there is an unexpected current draw. It's a good start though. Question is: how do I do that whilst keeping the BMS uninterested? Wouldn't triggering the seat sensors stop the ECU going into shut down?

ok. time for an update ... 1. was measuring with a DC clamp meter. i don't know what it's precision is like at low current. I will shift to a proper electronics multi-meter for the next tests. 2. my other half got stuck in the car when at a supermarket and got mugged into buying a 180 eur AGM battery. which is now installed. I fitted it last night and today it is measuring 12.2v. Worrying 3. This is a "New Beetle" rather than skoda. But the instrumentation and clusters look v similar to my fabia. less damaged perhaps! 4. everything on the car is OEM. Additions are an Echo Auto which is plugged into the cigarette lighter. On the beetle the ciggy is connected to the ignition (not the "until the key is removed" wire). so it looks like something in the car is draining the battery. I'm wondering how to fool the BCM so that I can check the draw fuse by fuse with someone in the car. I should have sprung for the extra tenner and the bluetooth meter!

thanks all. it's not every time so diagnosis is a challenge. my thoughts: 1. parasitic drain: it sometimes shows low voltage after only a few hours/overnight. sometimes not. I think this is a distinct possibility but wonder whether the current drain is caused by moisture incursion/freezing. the current drain tests I have done when the engine electrics have been off for ten minutes show a drain of only 90mA. 2. faulty battery: my gut feeling is that the battery remains ok. it's a sealed lead acid one so whilst I could get into the cells I haven't done it yet. given that the battery voltage tends to be around 12.4 - 12.2 I am thinking it may be that one cell has become sulphated. my next step is to try applying a current limited overvoltage to desulphate. 3. faulty starter: the starter feels normal. the battery tanks when the ignition is turned on but before cranking. i think this is likely to be the glow plugs causing a load which is consistent with the battery having a load fault. 4. warranty: the battery was an expensive one bought in Feb 2024 when the car had a very similar problem (yes, I know this points elsewhere). Sadly I don't have the receipt.

thanks @Warrior193. wouldn't a faulty cell show in reading static voltage? i.e. there would be 1/6 of the potential missing from the overall battery size?

hello all, and HNY ! I've got an oldish diesel beetle that looks to have much of the same instrumentation stuff inside it as the fabia 1. At the moment the car needs jumping every morning. It's on the parky side (-1C). battery is taking a charge and alternator is working. but voltage drops from nominal to 12.4 over a few hours, and to 12.2 overnight. turning on the ignition tanks the battery to lower than 8v (picks up back to 12.2 quickly.- perhaps the glow plugs?). I can't see any heavy battery draw on the DC clamp meter I'm using. so haven't started the fuse by fuse search. the battery is less than a year old and, as I said, charging normally. any suggestions for what to look for, please? thanks as ever Justin

Hello all With obd11 app I was previously able to adapt a new key to the immobiliser (I have the code). I've also been able to do so with a piece of open source code and a cable This morning and last night I have been unsuccessful. Obd11 unlocks the cluster and then I get a 00 function not available error when I specify the number of keys to code. Anyone come across and squished this issue?