Miikey63

Hi Nigel, Yes, I discovered that there's no progress to be had from removing the skoda viking sticker symbol. As I've worked with this transponder before, and the Hella 434MHz matches, I think there are two possible locations. One is under the text label into which the key-stem folds, and the other is top right of the battery positive contacts. I think this second one is more likely. I don't see it falling out past the metal contacts when the battery is swapped as they block this hole well (see second pic). The plastic clip to the top would be a convenient cover to protect the transponder chip.

Thanks NTA16. All suggestions gratefully receieved. I can see two <~1mm roll-pins, one holding the mechanical keyway stem, and the other as the pivot point of the spring-loaded mechanical key. It wouldn't be the first thing I've disassembled with the outcome of the neccessary spring escaping somewhere into my office.

I didn't need any violence to get to the point in the picture. Popping the right plastic clip did the job. The spring terminals for the battery don't leave space at that level for the coded chip, but it could be to the left of the positive plate contacts, or under the text where the folded key parks. I don't find any easy clips to pop to get the remaining two halves apart, and I want to keep it in a state where I can re-assemble it into a working key when I'm done as it's a mechanical match to the car. Any help here? the main body looks like two plastic shells clipped together, but unlike e.g., laptops, it's not a case of working around the outside with a plastic lever tool.

Well, I'm sorry I'm boring you, but I think some readers will find it a fun fact that the security chip in their key was developed by Australian farmers so they could quickly count and register flocks of many hundreds of animals by placing an inductive loop over the gate / sheep dip and then driving the flock through them, with an immediate read-out of any missing animals. I worked with these first in 1992. It charges using inductive loop power like power share or loop charging on a smartphone, or the inductive loop on a Braun electric toothbrush stand. You can't re-program the chip code, but you can re-program the ECU that it's a valid code to operate the car. We distributed validation amongst several ECUs so changing just one wouldn't let the car accept a new key.

I can tell you exactly what that is. It is the coded chip, and the inductor allows it to receive power from probably a coil around the key barrel under the cowling. When it gets enough power, it transmits its code. We use them at my OEM employer. What amuses me is that it is an Australian design used to count sheep as they are driven through a large inductive loop gateway. Each sheep can be individually logged.

Hi all. Anyone got the instructions for replacing the drivers door handle on a Mk3? I bought a pdf download off Estsy but the pictures are all blank. One source had the picture but I can't find it now. I think it was something like, '1-insert at 90 degrees', '2-close then push towards hinge point'. The handle fits back with no real force at all, but then does not unlock the door, so the above makes sense to me but that's not to say it's correct. All help appreciated, Thanks, Mike

Thanks Mark. I have an EE degree and enough kit to check a new battery. Where it fails for me is the User manual claim that a fully discharged fob will be sync'd with the car if a button is pressed for 10s without battery, then with a new battery, within 8s press any key on the remote.

Fallen out? Surely it's soldered to, or due to the high frequency, is part of the PCB. I find that on my 2019 Fabia, it was intended for the EU and only the passenger side has the cutout to pop the cover off the key barrel. Unfortunately, press a button then unlock didn't cause the ECU to learn my second key.

Well, I can tell you where that crashed n burned twice on my 2017 Fabia: Just changing the battery did not allow the fob to operate the doors the front doors do not sport mechanical key-locks I'm sure Skoda saved $10/Fabia by deleting the locks, but it's a bit short-sighted. What happens when the battery fails, or e.g., the interior light is left on, and you can't get into the car to open the bonnet?

Thank you pab: it's somewhat my expectation. There are so many options on modern cars that there are really never the two the same made. The cost of custom looms is large (surprisingly, still hand-made) and the shelf space on the production line drives the factory into complaint mode. It wasn't registered in the UK till 2019 so a march build was also expected. As much as I like adaptive cruise control, and it is a nice feature, along with lane departure warning, which my Wife hates, the powertrain ECU isn't going to recognise same without a dealer reflash. But the knowledge that it can be done is appreciated. I'm sure the upgrade is a £4-figure number, but I will enquire and report.

@pab567 , can you check mine? first registration was 31st May 2019. VIN is TMBFR6NJ3KZ126968. The reason I ask is that Skoda is at the cheaper end of VAG and, apart from the adaptive cruise ECU and the column switch, has the hardware to run adaptive cruise. I'd not be surprised if the wiring looms are carry-over from the higher spec. cars.

That 145 weighed 1300kg. The reason cars are so heavy today is for NCAP crash ratings. Your 'A' pillar (holds the windscreen) is probably a steel box inside a steel box inside a final steel box. My classic 1971 mini weighed 700kg and our 2001 MGF weighs 950kg. Which is why an original Golf GTI is probably faster than the current one. Probably not true of a Focus RS as that gets the same 2.3L 4-pot GDI Turbo with 350hp that goes into the Mustang. Plus a really trick front diff that runs traction control using two half-shaft electric clutches. Without doubt, if I'm going to have a wreck, I'd rather be in a modern car.

When we (family) moved back to the UK in 1968, my Dad ordered a Volvo 145 Estate from the Ipswich concessionaires, the only Volvo one in the UK at the time. The car arrived from Ghent, Belgium, on time into Ipswich. We flew in from Lusaka (Zambia) and the car was supposed to be in long term parking so we could pick it up and drive to my Grandparents in Cornwall. But no car. Dad got on the phone, and, as he had done the importing personally from Lusaka, the Volvo dealership had never seen one before. So, rather than deliver it as promised, they held onto it so they could get all their regional sales folks back from wherever to look at and review the car. Dad had ordered the 145S (twin carb 120hp 2.0L) because we had an Amazon in Africa and it was bullit proof. The running gear is essentially the same. We, self, brother and Mum, got on a train to Truro. Dad got on a train to Ipswich to extract his (paid for) car from the Concessionaires. I just can't imagine anyone would expect such a plan to work today! If anyone remembers 'The car's the star' with Quentin Wilson from the 1999, that was Dad, with pipe & dark green Volvo and 120,000 miles on the clock: filmed behind a garden gate of a home counties pretty cottage that wasn't ours, but the Producer had knocked on the door just to check if anyone was in.

My 1968 Morris Traveller is on 145 width tyres with truck leaf-springs, rotary friction dampers and drum brakes all round. I commuted from Essex to Glasgow every month for a decade in that car. Unfortunately, I modernised and tuned it a bit too much using my mini parts to the point where the engine expired spectacularly at about 80mph on the A12. With the plugs out, oil came out of cyl #2 & coolant out of cyl #3. Fortunately, I have a spare midget 1275 to recon and swap for the 1098 it came with. I modernised it enough to be a working commute car. I think standard was 45hp new, and it's about ~65hp now, enough to keep up with modern traffic. Then I put in a new mini heater, because the door seals leak past the locks: which is why, when you pass one in Winter, the occupants are in coats and scarves. Then swapped the dynamo for an alternator, and added one of my ignition modules so it starts. Plus the remote Lucas (now Delphi) remote servo from the original mini Cooper. Plus some reclining seats with headrests from a montego or allegro, I forget which but the grey leather was a reasonable blend with the interior pale blue trim, because the OEM ones were like those in an original mini with a 90 deg bend that's excrutiating after a few hours. And yes, it has a hand-crank, which is a cool way to start a car but needs a warm-ish engine and a complete guess at where the choke needs to be.