DanielFenech

Good day all :) I have a bit of a weird one - I have been noticing that when on the highway, the passenger side (RHS for us in CZ) tweeter makes almost like a static noise. I am pretty sure it is not related to the engine's RPM because if I rev the car at slower speeds I don't notice anything, and if on the highway I put it in neutral or hold the clutch and let go of the throttle for the RPMs to drop the noise stays there. Any ideas what it could be? I am suspecting maybe an airleak somewhere - but have you had any such experience and is there something to look out for? P.S. I am not 100% it is the tweeter, it could be the door speaker, but since I am almost always on my own on the front (wife sits with the baby at the back), it is hard to identify the exact source. Thanks

I worked it out using the mini fuse for the actuator module of the right LED headlight :)

UPDATE : With the multimeter I tracked which fuses are switched, and unfortunately most of the few I found switched are too tight to fit a piggy back. In the end I used the F36 mini fuse which is the Actuator module 1 for right LED headlight. I will wait a couple of days to see if it generates any fault codes or errors in the headlight unit, or drains the battery. So far it seems like it works fine.

Hey! I want to see which mini fuse is switched on the O3 - https://www.startmycar.com/skoda/octavia/info/fusebox/2019/gen-mk3#anchorfusebox1 Any ideas? I am trying to install a dash cam and every mini fuse I have tried seems to be live. The piggyback fuse I have is the mini one, and cannot find to buy the standard size piggyback fuse locally, so if I can get away with the mini one it would be better. Cheers :)

Oh great this is very informative, thank you!

I know I am bringing up this very old post, but do you remember the coding involved? Is it possible through OBDeleven, or only VCDS? Thanks :)

It is my understanding that those are meant to be on the outside (I have them OEM) not inside the armrest. I mean, it is a great idea if I can have hidden USB in the armrest and charge the phone in there, but honestly I have zero ideaon how I would get wiring in there without drilling

I already have those - but I would like the additional one at the front so I don't have cables running around.

Exxactly - and I am not willing to try and experiment with my own ones, if I ruin one I will end up with nothing. I think the best solution I have found is to buy a whole centre console (relatively cheap at around 15eur, but expensive if you consider you want just one blank) Yes, the OEM USB port will be used for the AAwireless dongle.

Hey all! I just bought an Octavia 3 Combi, 2017, L&K, 2.0TDi 4x4, manual. I will be using the USB port for the AAwireless dongle with the Columbus, and need an additional couple of USB ports just to charge the phones. I love to keep my cars with a clean OEM look and to avoid having a usb hub in the 12v socket, I was wondering if anyone has had any success fitting USB ports into the blanks in the centre console as in the image attached below to get something as in this link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010160330751.html?algo_pvid=16b1b889-e355-4daa-9ffa-89b102eb7401&algo_exp_id=16b1b889-e355-4daa-9ffa-89b102eb7401-18&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2242%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21CZK%21355.76%2139.32%21%21%21116.16%2112.84%21%40211b618e17690739293681325e05b0%2112000051361050131%21sea%21CZ%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A1c38682e%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A5000000197856239&curPageLogUid=Jih1029bpazt&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005010160330751%7C_p_origin_prod%3A I don't want to ruin one of the blanks, so ideally I would also like to buy a couple to test on, but cannot seem to find any for sale. Any help? Thanks! Daniel

I am eyeing the Octavia as in the title, can anyone give me some suggestions on what to look out for, and if you have any experiences with the same spec? The car has 122,000km, categorised as "Perfect" by an authorised Škoda service shop/reseller, 1 owner from new, bought locally. Only thing I would like it to have, which is missing, is the auxiliary heating. Another question - from the photos of the dealer, the car has Android Auto/Carplay/Mirror link with USB only - I think the unit is an MIB 3 Amundsen? Can the wireless smartlink be unlocked? Cheers :)

Thanks :D

We decided to go with the Nuna Pipa Urbn in the end - saves us a base as it connects directly to the ISOFix and should fit the Fabia well. The dealer we visited told us the same thing yours did, and he also mentioned Britax as one of the very few brands that fit the Fabia well since they can counter the seat tilt by tilting the car seat in the base. In the end went with the Nuna for the high safety rating (one of the best out there according to the likes of ADAC) and simplicity, saves us from buying a base and the hassle of removing it everytime (would be a bit hesitant leaving it in the car long periods unattended if someone with sticky fingers spots it) and saves us a bit of cash too, without giving up on safety which is the number 1 factor for us.

Hey thanks for the reply. Apologies for the delay as well. Yes the seat base should have that leg. Joey, as far as I know are the sister brand of Nuna - and on this particular base the Fabia estate from 2008 onwards is ticked green. My bet would be it should work fine, because what sense does it make that the manufacturer says it should work well with our car, and then you get it online only to find out it does not - or if it does the baby risks choking due to the tilt...

Good day all! My wife and I are expecting a baby, and started looking at car seats. We were looking at Nuna car seats (Specifically the Nuna PIPA Next) but the dealer told us that the Fabia is not compatible with ISOFix bases (for most brands) since the seat platform tilt is quite pronounced. They recommended us a car seat with built in ISOFix attachment (also from Nuna, so quality is not an issue as such). We would like to be able to have the 360 base feature though because it can make life much easier. We are not in a position to just buy a new car at the moment since we might have to relocate in a few months. On the user manual of the Nuna Pipa it shows that with the Base Next isofix base it is compatible. See image below. My question to you guys/gals is, have you used an ISOFix base in your Fabia II (ideally Combi like ours)? Have you had any issues with the position of the baby? Would love to hear some input! Thank you:) Cheers! Daniel

I think you misunderstood me - I clearly said that the car used to pull to one side after I had the EGR valve replaced, then took it for wheel alignment and it drove straight but the steering wheel was off centre (if I release it car still drives straight but it has to be off centre for the car to drive straight), I took it in again and they couldn't fix it, said everything looked fine. Took the car for a service and the guy said he will look into it, after which the car started pulling to one side again. Now just took it to another shop for proper alignment and car drives straight but again steering is offset. I specified in the last paragraph of the post "the car drives straight", no idea how you see that as being contradictory, perhaps you miscomprehended? Apologies for any confusion - I tried to pass on as much detail as possible about the situation.

Ok, so my best bet is to find someone to align the axle properly, since I don't have access to a garage over here, or tools for that matter. Just as a remark - if I let go of the steering wheel, the car keeps driving straight, very little pull to the right (not sure if it is because of the road surface or not to be honest). When we lowered the subframe we just "loosened" it a bit, then used the markings of the old bolts/washers as far as I remember - maybe that is why we got it right at one go? Regarding the steering wheel - do you think it's just the result of the alignment guys or it can be off and needs adjustment itself as well?

Ok so I've tried to check up on both the axel centreness/alignment and the steering wheel's position itself with respect to the spline it mounts to. I tried to straighten the wheels as best as I could before I took the measurements - I found that from the centre of the rear wheels to the centre of the front wheels, the right hand side (passenger side where I am at, in the Czech Republic, would be Driver's side in the UK/Malta) is a bit shorter - around 8mm. The wheels themselves with respect to the wheel arch are also a little bit misaligned - the right hand side's wheel is more rearwards - the gap to the front of the wheel arch is bigger, and the gap to the rear of the wheel arch is smaller when compared to the opposite (left) side. If the left side distance between the wheel arch and the tire is 5cm, it is 6cm on the right side. And the distance between the rear of the wheel arch to the tire also results in 1cm difference. I also used fixed points on wheel arch to measure to the tire - the bolts that hold the arch lining. The distance from the strut to the outer sidewall of the tire is approximately the same on both sides - so can it be that the sub frame is not straight? I.E. can it be that they mounted the sub frame with the left side more forward, hence the car has a natural tendency to turn right and which is why after wheel alignment the steering wheel is to the left? Another discovery was that the steering wheel, when rotated to the lock to the left, the screen fits between the bottom spokes - it's edge just touching the outer spoke. When rotated to opposite (right) lock, the inner spoke covers most of the screen. Hence the wheel turns a bit less to the right than it does to the left. I know perspective is not 100% the same, but you can compare the logo to the screen, and even visually in real time is evident that they do not match. Could it be that when they replaced the EGR valve, they had to undo the steering column and when they put it back together they had turned it a couple of splines? Can it be a combination of both assumptions I am doing above, or either/or? My father - a truck mechanic, told me he finds it hard to believe that they subframe was put in place incorrectly because when we replaced the clutch/timing belt we did losen it a bit, and when we tightened it back up we did not pay attention to aligning it well, it just "fit in place" and we had no issues. He said if there would be any misalignment it would be mere millimeters but he's also not sure as he said we could have gotten lucky as well. PS I know the measurements I have taken are not accurate, but I believe they do depict a good picture of what is going on, even if the values are not 100% correct - you can also see the differences both in wheel position and steering wheel rotation visually. Cheers

Don't really wish to just move the steering wheel a few splines. Thought about it, did it on my '98 Polo way back when, but then again it did not even have power steering, let alone elctric steering with a sensor that might throw everything off. And if something is fundamentally wrong with the set up of the car, I don't want to "hide" the issue but get down to it and solve it as best as I could. I know I asked if maybe the steering wheel needs recentering but on deeper thoughts I think that is a very less likely requirement - I was thinking that maybe the steering wheel was replaced and not put back on properly.

Thank you so much, this is not something I was thinking of! But it definitely makes sense since all this started after getting it back from the shop following an EGR valve replacement - which as far as I know requires the subframe to come off. Is it a big job to re align the subframe? Unfortunatley here I do not have a garage, so I need to rely on mechanics - something I have never done in my entire life, being the son of a truck mechanic hah! And I feel so anxious that the first time I really needed a mechanic it went south with this situation.

Hey guys, This will be a bit of a long post - so apologies in advance. I bought my second hand 2012 Skoda Fabia II 12.TDi combi, and it was fine. I know it had been in an accident before I bought it - but it drove straight and was repaired quite well. The past winter I changed the clutch and timing belt myself, gave it a good service, and although it was driving mostly straight decided to give it a wheel alignment anyways since most of the front was disassembled. It drove straight as well. Now I moved abroad with the car and still don't have a garage to work on it - it needed the EGR valve replaced and took it to a shop, after which I noticed a slight pull to one side - assuming because they had to disconnect the subframe and steering linkages etc? No idea. Anyways, took it in to a shop for a 3d wheel alignment and whilst the car drove straight, the steering wheel was no off centre, pointing a bit to the left. After a couple of weeks I took it back in to the same shop and said they could not see any issues with the car, tried to realign but the issue persisted. The mechanic told me that everything down there looks good, nothing wrong mechanically so he could not understand why it's happening. He said if it persisted I should rotate the wheels around. Whilst annoying, the car drove straight so I could live with it. Last week I took my car in to a mechanic for a service, and asked him if he could look into the steering wheel being off centre, and to rotate the wheels around - and for sure he tried to "realign" the wheels by feel, or by sight - as when I got the car back it now started pulling to the right if I let go of the steering wheel - and the steering wheel wasn't even centred. Anyways he did charge quite a bit even for the normal stuff - so didn't bother going back in to his shop. Today I just came back from another shop (also a 3d wheel alignment) - and they specialise specifically in wheel alignment - and lo and behold, got the car back with the same issue - the steering wheel is off centre to the left. I did see them locking the steering wheel in place as well - because I know it could be that they were not locking it. I am attaching the results from today - before and after. I am at a loss - It cannot be that the last 3 shops all do bad wheel alignments (since the first one was fine). The car is parked and with the steering wheel centred, the wheels are visible turned slightly more into one direction - so no idea why 2 of those shops (the second and the fourth) tell me that it looks ok. The car does drive straight. Can it be that the steering wheel needs to be removed and re-centred? Or should I just drive from Czechia all the way back down to Malta to go to my usual guy who did it right in the first place? hah! Any thoughts? Cheers!

UPDATE: DRL were not working. Checked the switch (located by the fuses) and they were indeed off. I must have hit the switch with the piggyback fuse when I was putting it in Way to make myself look like a genius. Turned the switch back on and now the fuse has current going through it. So problem solved. Still find it strange that a switch determines current to the fuse, not vice versa Leaving this here just in case someone else tries to find why fuse #17 (specifically for the daytime running lights) has no current/voltage - check the switch!!

Hey everyone! I have just hardwired my dashcam with a piggyback fuse on my 2012 Fabia II 1.2TDi Combi. I tried initially the fuse #17, START - STOP - radio / Daylight driving lights, as I have seen it recommended by many others before. When I connected the cam to it, current stopped coming to the fuse for whatever reason (the fuse is not blown). I disconnected the fuse and tried to see if current is coming through to the terminals and it reads zero as well. Before I was getting 12v readings. I piggybacked fuse #26 then, rear window wiper, and it worked fine with no issues. I am just wondering what could have happened by connecting a piggyback fuse to a fuse slot to make it stop drawing current/voltage. And what would you recommend to diagnose the issue? Radio works fine, did not check the DRL yet though. Any ideas? Kind Regards Daniel

Yeah I've noticed that! That's a shame, really! I had sold my cars around 6 years ago (including a '76 Capri, don't hate me hah!) since I went to live and study abroad and public transport was more than sufficient. This year I decided to buy a car there, and a few months later we decided to come back to Malta, so now I've got a LHD Fabia over here. Figured it would be cheaper to drive across Europe in it, and service it myself than sell it and lose value over it (won't be sold for how much I've spent on it including new tires) whilst still having to buy another used car in Malta that would probably need servicing anyways. Cars here are way overpriced.

Update: Issue was sorted - every fuse was OK. Took the pump out and fidgeted the plug a bit maybe got loose, still nothing. Connected the pump to a battery directly before buying one - even though they're cheap wanted to be sure it is faulty, not some wiring. And it turned on. Put it back in, and it worked. Mystery. I know the car battery needs replacement, but connecting the pump directly to a battery and then back to the dying battery wouldn't fix the low voltage situation. Maybe there was a small blockage that the low voltage couldn't overcome? Anyways, saved me a trip to the store