User2908

When i did mine, i did it seperately - used CLD (panel dampener) and layered closed cell foam ontop after, suggested getting one that contains both combined as that removes some of the hassle of cutting + layering multiple times When putting it on, you want to look for any large flat areas, if you tap an area and it creates resonance, that gives you an idea of where you want to place it (normally on the back of the outer door skin, around the window regulator, back of the door card if it has any flat areas + underneath the speaker - where it mounts) - no noise from rocks on the doors anymore and definitely quietened the cabin

They should still give a better output than the factory speakers, due to them being a better construction + having lower impedance, sound deadening will improve response of the low tones + remove some unwanted noise (lower section of exterior door panel - will reduce the sound of rockchips massively). This still leaves you the option to change the headunit out in the future (at worst you could probably find a used name brand single-din on ebay for 20 quid and buy an adapter at halfords)

*forgot to mention, the impulse amp only has adapters for later skoda head units, so would not be plug and play on your model

Yes, i did the doors at the same time, i just went with the focal impulse amp as it will do 4x80w with those 2ohm speakers + runs inline with the head unit. if you are looking at aftermarket head units you shouldnt need one however as the majority have 4x50w outputs from factory

https://www.focal.com/products/is-vw-165

Skoda catalogue says fabia has 4x 165mm speakers

For the MK2 fabia they would be 165 F+R (the ones with separate tweeter)

I got them as seperate front + rear kits, if you look around for them id buy them from whenever its cheapest. I did also get the focal mini amp however as i was looking for more power at the same time and i wanted to keep the head unit i currently have (Yeti MIB2) (can say for sure it gets fookin loud lol + they definitely have more punch than the factory woofers)

Those would work, although ideally you would want an adapter for the treble (tweeter) speaker also. In regard to what i said before, it would still require cutting into the loom to fit the crossover box that comes with those speakers even if you have adapter plugs, depending on how they fit into the box would depend on whether you would have to crimp/solder or just screw the wires into the crossover box. If you are looking for something simpler to install, personally i went with the 'Focal IS' kits as they come with inline crossovers like factory and do not require any adapters to fit, new rivets included also, they are also lower resistance than factory speakers so the OEM head unit should have no issues driving them

So the pipework looks okay (including the small one under the plastic engine cover) + the air filter looks good?

Indicates there is not a open circuit or dead short to ground in the wiring as you are still getting a reading, id first start by checking mechanically if things are okay, such as a blocked air filter, split or loose piping Behind the mass air flow sensor, most likely the corrugated elbow and the vent hose attached to it (seeing as it may have been removed for glowplugs) When you cleaned the sensor, did you just clean the contacts on the plug or did you remove the sensor and clean the sensor ports that sit inside the intake pipe?

is there specified and actual values for mass air flow? if so, ideally you want them to correlate at idle

If you read the measuring blocks for the mass air flow sensor at idle, what reading do you get?

When did the issue first start occuring?

Hi, Can you give any further info on the car, such as what engine, how many miles are on it and what sort of journeys you do (distance/speed)?