rabbituk

On my 2013 MY Yeti with climatronic I know that when I hold the AC and 'air recirculation' button, it goes into flap calibration mode for a while. However when doing this I once accidentally pressed the 'air to windows' button instead of 'air recirculation' and this appears to do something different, perhaps a diagnostic menu? However I haven't found any description of what this is or managed to relate it to anything in VCDS. for a few seconds, the LEDs in both buttons flash and it appears to show different values on the display. Does anybody know or have a description of these values? Are there any other climatronic features that don't appear in the user manual?

Over the years I have replaced all 4 of the wheel sensors on our Yeti, sometimes using Bosch, other times using no-name and to be fair all have worked okay. Having said that, the price difference isn't massive between them.

I have emailed Febi to make them aware of this issue but for completeness here is the link to the Febi part that is not compatible with 5K0 907 659. https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/194829

I have now purchased a 5K0 part albeit second hand and it actually does output the desired PWM signal and has subsequently caused the fault to be cleared. So the issue was that Febi and the other seller were falsely advertising their part as compatible with 5K0 907659/1K0 907659. They are not. I am quite disappointed with Febi as I used to consider them a trustworth company. Thanks to @Breezy_Pete for persauding me to try the OEM part.

I would be interested to hear from anybody that has successfully fitted a 5K0907659 air quality sensor to their pre facelift Skoda Yeti. Currently I don't see how it can work without alterations to the Climatronic control panel. As previously mentioned, the news sensors appear to speak LIN whereas the old ones are PWM. Unless the sensor is multilingual, the protocol used on the sense pin (pin 3) is going to be different and not be understood by an unaltered climatronic control panel. I have attached a trace of both old sensor 1K0907659 and a new sensor from Febi part 194829 but based on the 5K0907659. I don't believe that the replacement 5K0907659 OEM sensor from Skoda will be any different to the Febi part and I'll have the same problem. Old sensor wave form: New sensor wave form:

Unless I'm missing something, aren't they supports for the exhaust rather than pipes?

I know that you've said that 5K0907659 supersedes 1K0907659 but is it definitely compatible? i.e. Do we know that the 5K0907659 part is definitely not LIN bus based? On the catcar.info, if I look at the diagram for the 2013 Yeti, it only lists the 1K0907659 part. However if I look at the 2014 year and onwards it lists 1K0907659 with 5K0907659 in brackets. I'm just surprised that so many sellers on eBay have the wrong part advertised and this makes me suspect that they are only partly wrong and it works for some years but not others.

If you have your car in the garage, perhaps put a dehumidifier in it with a hose attached to the drain. Definitely the underlay was worst when this happened to me and the underlay was extremely fragile when wet especially in the driver footwell but then the car was 25 years old at that point. I had had rain water get into the car after the scuttle drains were blocked with leaves and there was torrential rain for 24 hours. Water poured out when I opened the doors. It was pretty bad. Still have the car and cannot smell any mustiness any more and I didn't have to replace anything - just a lot of work removing the seats and lifting the carpets to allow drier air to circulate.

There appears to be a lot of confusion with eBay sellers regarding this part and nobody selling a new part appears to have a clue as to the version that they are selling despite all claiming to be equivalent to OE 1K0907659. I ordered the Febi version and it too is LIN as I've now managed to find my logic analyzer and can see the PWM and LIN signals distinctly (@Breezy_Pete your assumption appears to be correct). The LIN version appears to draw about 60~mA where as the PWM version draws 10mA. This makes sense given the higher data rate of LIN part. My original sensor appears to send roughly 80ms LOW, 80ms HIGH, 20ms LOW, 60ms HIGH in that order. LIN is significantly faster. The failure mode of my original sensor is that it unfortunately stops communicating after 45s every time it is powered on. I wonder if the later Yeti's used the LIN part, mine is a preface lift? Presumably only the clilmatronic control panel would need to be updated to accommodate that.

I don't have a 'scope that I can use to test this part with however I don't see much movement in the value which I would likely see if the value was oscillating over time. Presumably we can't know if the superseded part was an improvement or simply a change of sub manufacturer. The eBay advert I purchased it from specifically listed my car model as well as the aforementioned OE part number so I thought it would be the correct type. For a non-safety critical part like this I was just trying to see if I could save a little money.

Unfortunately, there is no postfix to the part number. Other writing on the older failed unit is 'PAG', the end opposite the sense intake has 'IND 12' and 'II 232/32'. Presumably the latter being a part manufacture date.

The air quality sensor (1K0907659) appears to have failed on our 2013 Yeti. In VCDS it is throwing the DTC 9481988 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [008] - Internal System Fault The price of a replacement OEM part was £140 plus the hassle of a 1 hour round trip to collect it from the dealer. So given the price of £20 for a Chinese version, I have tried that. However it is giving me a different fault 9479189 - Signal Line for Air Quality Sensor B10A4 15 [008] - Open or Short to Plus Upon testing this Chinese part on a bench using a PSU set to 12V 0.1A, with pin 1 (12V), pin 2 GND, then I'm seeing 10.5V on pin 3 for a few seconds and then it drops to 9.5V for the remaining time. It is drawing 45mA and then 0mA respectively. I think it is simply a fault part but curious to know how others have got on with the Chinese part? Has anybody got voltage & current values for a known good sensor? The old failed sensor I have has 0.5V on pin 3 and is drawing about 10mA constantly.

The tyre looks okay but I'll probably change it anyway. When I took it to the tyre shop they were able to seal it enough to inflate it but advised that it really shouldn't be used for high speed anymore. This is the second time my Dad has managed to mess the wheel up in as many years - it was brought just before lockdown Christmas so December 2020. I'm not quite sure of the specifics of the accident this time but it involved hitting a road island with the wheel so it is possible that the inner side received the brunt of the impact if the island was small enough. So it wasn't kerb like I had mentioned earlier. I guess my question has been answered, do not try to repair this. I will find another and will definitely consider moving to a 16" set as it seems I'd then get more tyre meat and 16" rims seem easier to come by when I next need to replace it. I know this will happen again with my Dad's driving. He is at the point where he is considering giving up driving but there is no public transport and he has a dog so taxi's are difficult. I drove him exlusively during the dark winter months and it was difficult as it heavily impacted on my life.

I believe the peening marks that are present are from a prior incident but they were also a cause for concern.

Aberdeen isn't really what I would consider local to Chelmsford, Essex. To be clear, I'm thinking maximum 1 hour away.