rabbituk

I don't have a 'scope that I can use to test this part with however I don't see much movement in the value which I would likely see if the value was oscillating over time. Presumably we can't know if the superseded part was an improvement or simply a change of sub manufacturer. The eBay advert I purchased it from specifically listed my car model as well as the aforementioned OE part number so I thought it would be the correct type. For a non-safety critical part like this I was just trying to see if I could save a little money.

Unfortunately, there is no postfix to the part number. Other writing on the older failed unit is 'PAG', the end opposite the sense intake has 'IND 12' and 'II 232/32'. Presumably the latter being a part manufacture date.

The air quality sensor (1K0907659) appears to have failed on our 2013 Yeti. In VCDS it is throwing the DTC 9481988 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [008] - Internal System Fault The price of a replacement OEM part was £140 plus the hassle of a 1 hour round trip to collect it from the dealer. So given the price of £20 for a Chinese version, I have tried that. However it is giving me a different fault 9479189 - Signal Line for Air Quality Sensor B10A4 15 [008] - Open or Short to Plus Upon testing this Chinese part on a bench using a PSU set to 12V 0.1A, with pin 1 (12V), pin 2 GND, then I'm seeing 10.5V on pin 3 for a few seconds and then it drops to 9.5V for the remaining time. It is drawing 45mA and then 0mA respectively. I think it is simply a fault part but curious to know how others have got on with the Chinese part? Has anybody got voltage & current values for a known good sensor? The old failed sensor I have has 0.5V on pin 3 and is drawing about 10mA constantly.

The tyre looks okay but I'll probably change it anyway. When I took it to the tyre shop they were able to seal it enough to inflate it but advised that it really shouldn't be used for high speed anymore. This is the second time my Dad has managed to mess the wheel up in as many years - it was brought just before lockdown Christmas so December 2020. I'm not quite sure of the specifics of the accident this time but it involved hitting a road island with the wheel so it is possible that the inner side received the brunt of the impact if the island was small enough. So it wasn't kerb like I had mentioned earlier. I guess my question has been answered, do not try to repair this. I will find another and will definitely consider moving to a 16" set as it seems I'd then get more tyre meat and 16" rims seem easier to come by when I next need to replace it. I know this will happen again with my Dad's driving. He is at the point where he is considering giving up driving but there is no public transport and he has a dog so taxi's are difficult. I drove him exlusively during the dark winter months and it was difficult as it heavily impacted on my life.

I believe the peening marks that are present are from a prior incident but they were also a cause for concern.

Aberdeen isn't really what I would consider local to Chelmsford, Essex. To be clear, I'm thinking maximum 1 hour away.

My Dad managed to hit a kerb today whilst driving our Yeti and damaged the rim. On the bay I cannot see anyone local selling Dolomite 17" rims and would rather buy local so I can inspect it. So in lieu of that I was wondering if it is practical to repair rims? There are quite a lot of peening marks on the inside of the rim so I guess that would also need to be repaired as the metal looks a little thin. Has anybody had this done?