olit

I do not disagree! Suspension geometry is serious matters! And I only ask this, as to get advice to make my car handle better. I ask for experience - "Best practice". And the "common" advice is sport suspension-kits, even coilovers. Generally 30-50 mm lowering. But that is not my cup of tea. I really like my original basic setup, except the understeer. And I don't think a original sport setup with -15mm front and rear will change anything in that regard. I wonder how the "police-car-setup" handles? Regards Olit :-)

I will measure ride-height, but it is not sagging. I had a 4-wheel-adjustment by the dealership, and it was said to be fine. Dont have the report thou. Is there any thoughts on how to better front end grip? Lowering comes to mind. But I dont want to do anything before getting advice from you guyes! Have anyone tried the original sport-springs/dampers (-15mm), but only in the front? Regards olit - Norway

Trying to wake this interesting thread, with this question: My Superb combi awd 170 tdi, is VERY prone to understeer. I have driven seiersløpet VW Passats, and they act similar. Is there any thoughts on how to better front end grip? Have anyone tried the original sport-springs/dampers (-15mm), but only in the front? Regards olit - Norway

Hi again! I totally agree with Ian the bike-rider!! Dual H7-lamps, or H7+H1 lamps is a totally different story. There you can use ordinary bulbs on "normal" light, and HID/Xenons on "full". As you will dip to the halogen bulb when you meet another vehicle, no one notices or cares. If you still chooses HID/Xenons, remember that you will get white light from 4300 Kelvin. 6000 Kelvin is blue(ish), and 8000 Kelvin is blue/purple.. If you have lenses, 6000 Kelvin is said to be the one to have, otherwise go for 4300 K. Olit - Norway

Hi! This seems VERY odd! What color coolant are you using? Pink or blue? The difference is in the corrosion-protection. So dont use the wrong color! Olit - Norway

Hi! The Octavia has H4-bulbs. If you substitute just the bulbs with Xenon/HID on original lamps, the light-pattern will be all wrong, and the drivers that meet you on the road will hate you for it!!! I went for a kit with better gauge wire and relays, to get enough voltage to the bulbs, which helped alot! And now it is even better with Osram NightBreaker bulbs! But in time I will get L&K lamps. Still ordinary H4, but clear glass and better reflectors (I am told). Olit-Norway

Hi Dave! Is your car a "sedan" (1U2) or a combi (1U5)? My first advice is anyway this: DUMP the RS suspension-parts! They are not made for your car!! My second advice is to look at this link, and find your car there. Keep in mind that your TDI might benefit the HD-suspension option ("beefier" front shocks). Koni-finder. I highly recommend the Koni FSD's on "OEM"-springs. I first used FSD's on new Lesjöfors "OEM"-springs, and the ride was VERY good. To bad those springs made my car look like a Scout. I got them traded in at no cost (for me) for a Lesjöfors lowering kit. The FSD's for my car (2100-4019) were made for sub 910 kg front axle (and 1000 kg rear axle). The lowering springs were rated at 990 kg front axle and 1000 kg rear axle. So my current FSD's struggles a bit with the rebound. Not that bad, but not awesome as they could have been. There are FSD's for over 910 kg front axle - the 2100-4048, which probably would suit my springs much better. Probably also your TDI, which is much heavier over the front wheels than my car. And they might not be bad with your current RS-springs... My third advice is to also look at the Koni STR.T, and Sport Springs, since I found a very good offer on this combo here: Offer from Awesome-GTI I think the price seems very good for four shocks and springs! But be aware of the new STR.T HD-shock, the 8750-1063 which is due now. You might want that instead of the 8740-1002. Consult the experts regarding this, if you should consider buying! I have not read much about the STR.T yet. I must also say that I have installed SUPERPRO poly-bushings on my car, and I highly recommend them to! Regards Olit - Norway

Hi! I just mention that Koni has a new offer for the vRS this autum - The STR.T. It is a firmer shock, but the length is said to be OEM - as is FSD's. But STR.T is firmer than FSD. Check out the "Koni-finder" on the right: My link Regards Olit - Norway

Hi! You definately need to get new shocks that are up to the task taming the rebound of your new lower but stronger springs! Bilstein B8 Sprint or Koni Sport should do it. I suppose the new springs came with certification from Tüv. Can you please tell the kg/lbs-rates for the front and rear axle according to that paper? Regards Olit - Norway PS! By the way - a friend bought a Bilstein B12-kit to replace his Weitec coil-overs on his BMW 318i (E46). They were not broken, but he suspected B12 would do better. And he was absolutely right!!!! The car became a bit taller (new springs you know..), but it was no competition! He is still smiling 2 months after the change!! DS. EDIT: I talked to my friend, and he was not sure what make his former coil-overs were. They might be Wmaxx, FK and not Weitec's.... Olit

OK. Thanks! By the way - The Parker-site states that the 4x4 uses a 16V engine. But as the model is produced from oct 2006 -oct 2008, it should have the 8V BMM as stated by Skomaz. The BMM uses a Siemens ECU and DPF. I was hoping to find that it used the more tuneable Bosch ECU/non-DPF/16V/ BKD (or AZV), after reading what Devonmikeyboy have done to his BKD. I think the 4x4 would have been a good platform for such a engine! Olit

... and what was the engine-code for this PD140-engine(s)? Olit

According to Wikipedia the BMM indeed is a 8V, but it also says it is used from 2007 -> ... If this is correct, what about the 4x4 from before 2007? I have to do some more searching.. :-) Olit Edit: Did Skoda ever offer the PD140 in Octavia 2 4x4 before 2007? I am beginning to doubt, as I cannot find any for sale.... If so, my prosjekt i dead before it started, as from 2007 the Siemens ECU and DPF entered the scene... I know tuners are beginning to deal with the Siemens/DPF challenge, but the cost of a 2007-> model would make a proper prosjekt-car out of reach. :-( Olit

What is the engine-code for the PD140 4x4 then? Olit

Hi! I read somwhere that the Octy (probably also the Scout) the last year have got the Haldex4-system. Skoda has kept quite about it, because it is supposed to be the "BIG NEWS" when introducing the Superb Estate 4x4 this summer/autum. Olit

I do not know if the Piezo-injectors are compatible with the PD140-ECU... Olit

As I understand there are three PD140 used in Octy mk II: (Wikipedia) 2,0-16V - 136ps/320nm - AZV - 04-08 2,0-16V - 140ps/320nm - BKD - 04-08 2,0-8V - 140ps/320nm - BMM - 07-> I suspect the latter is the single-cam... But do any of you know which have DPF? Olit

Keep us posted!! Do you by the way have any details how you "exclude" the DPF from the ECU? What turbo is originally on the PD170? Is it the GT1749V - aka VNT17-Vb from the 1,9 - PD150? Olit

Hi Lummox! Yes, I was told that one challenge with the BMN (PD170) was the DPF -> not beeing able to turn it of, so I should not bother about that engine. And I assume it is the same regarding the BMM (PD140). That leaves us with the AZV and BKD. What do you think of them? Except bad head-castings.. When was this a problem? Regarding the 2,7 and 3,0-turbos - I think they are not integrated in the maifold, but have flanges and are bolted on. So some welding must be done - modifying the original manifold or making a custom manifold from scratch. So my question is if somebody have done this before, and where can I find the information. The info on TDICLUB is mainly about 1,9 - 8V. Olit

Hi again! The seller of the turbo(s) is by the way from Romania. There are some VAG-car-owners that have installed a BMW 2260 on the 1,9 TDI, with very good results. But as far as I know none have tried a GTB2260VK from the Audi 3,0 or the GTB1756VK from the Audi 2,7 on a PD140 - 2,0 - 16V, even thou its is recognized as a good-flowing head - much better than the old 1,9 - 8V. Olit

Well, petrol vRS's go pretty well too, but I quite a few people install lager turbos, changing fuel-pumps, larger IC's etc. Why not do some proper tuning to a TDI? It is possible you know. As I said - I will choose the PD140, because the PD170 has more limitations. If just a chip/remap was what I was after, the PD170 would be the choice. But for more extensive work the PD140 is said to be a better object. But no experience to be found here, so better go back to TDICLUB. Olit

Hi! I am currently investigating purchase of a Octy mk II 2,0 TDI - probably a 4wd estate. As I understand there are three PD140 used in Octy mk II: (Wikipedia) 2,0-16V - 136ps/320nm - AZV - 04-08 2,0-16V - 140ps/320nm - BKD - 04-08 2,0-8V - 140ps/320nm - BMM - 07-> What turbos are used on theese? Garret or KKK? Have anyone tried swapping the original turbo to a larger unit? I have contacted someone selling a Garrett GTB2260VK-unit from a 3,0TDI, and a GTB1756VK-unit from the 2,7TDI - both with a modified VNT-actuator to fit the system of the PD140's "older" N75-system. The seller say this is a easy swap, which will give a good drivabillity and much power - especially with a custom remap. But I want a second opinion from you guys! Olit PS! The seller also say that the PD140 is the most tuneable of the 2,0 TDI's, as you can upgrade the "hardware" such as turbos, injectors etc. He says this is much more difficult with the PD170. DS.

Hi! The vRS uses the same chassis as the TT, S3, Cupra etc, so the wishbones and arb are not the same as Octy L&K std chassis. They shocks might fit, but will probably not be a good match. Order Koni FSD's from Sarah instead, or STR.T or Yellow if you are into lowering the car. Olit

Hi! Did not VAG at some point start using higher capasity/better pumps on the 2.0 TFSI? I think I have read that somewhere.. Maybe it was in 2008? Olit

Hi! I totally agree that a old battery will make the problem even worse, having problems providing enough amps to make the starter crank the engine to 260rpm. So a good high capasity start-battery is essential. But a software-flash/chip would not hurt either. This is not the only "fault" with this ECU according to the gurus at TDICLUB... Olit