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thanks for the advice Jack, there's nowt wrong with your English btw ! just my understanding !

Not quite sure* atm what you mean by 'online you can find the decoder of the long coding', but many thanks Jack. What interface would I need, currently I have one from Gendan that we're using with VCDS Lite, but it is a KKL interface hence K-line only I believe and not CAN capable ? It reads the engine / ECU module but not ABS. * ok I have just googled that - now I have a better idea about VAG ABS long coding ! Every day is a school day.

thanks for those comments. Alasdair - yes, we have got a gunson eezi-bleed (same m/cyl cap on the T4) and used it last time we bled the brakes. When we rebleed we will check for beam position (Pete) checked the fuses on the battery I know the style you mean and which seem prone to aging/ hairline cracks, but they appear more robust on the Mk2 and cant immed tell if blown, as they are encapsulated, but DVM indicates all are intact. Jack - interesting - not sure wanted to read that but thanks ! if we reconnect the original one and switch on would that work ? what tool do we need to do all this - VCDS lite isn't up to the job we now know as it would appear ABS uses CAN. Full blown VCDS looks expensive - is there a cheaper alternative diag tool that will do what we want (e.g. ABS scan for faults, ABS bleeding and recoding modules if reqd). And, no, we didn't do an autoscan, as we don't have full VCDS at present. Like you, finding out the hard way, ha ha !

thanks both, I wasn't sure how to tag. Will PM the VIN to you Pete when I get/ find it - may already have done this when we had the issue with the fuel pump when you kindly supplied fuse/ wiring info (car is a bit of an odd ball) . I don't recall if I messaged you then with the info or just posted it (will see if I can check back). I have now buzzed the connections on the harness connector that came with the replacement (via the short length of harness fitted). 17 out of the 38 pins on the Delphi connector are populated. If the PNs are the same, I assume it will be the same on the actual vehicle ??? Wiring diag will tell all. We need the controller working with OBD 1st to see any faults with the wheel sensors etc. We don't seem to have any comms at the moment, with either the ABS controller module in the car or the replacement when plugged in to the vehicle harness. (We can see the engine ECU fine). thanks PS I have just checked, VIN PMd to you 16 Sept 23 Pete, do you want me to resend ?

Had a problem with spongey brakes per my earlier thread : fabia 1.2htp brakes still feel spongey after being bled - Skoda Fabia Mk2 (2007-2014) - BRISKODA However, a new problem has occurred with symptom that ABS light is now on permanently. Brake feel has much improved, however, vehicle won't get through MOT with ABS problem. Before any says, yes I know there are workarounds that might get the vehicle through MOT, but it would be good to resolve the issue properly if poss, and restore the ABS function. Have connected VCDS and there is no comms with the ABS module, so ordered a replacement one (from breakers as they are unobtainium otherwise), Part number is below, it's same as the OE unit that is in the car currently. 6R0 907 379 S / 6R0 907 379 AB Plugged this replacement module in to the harness yesterday, just to check whether OBD now works, and still no comms with the ABS controller, and ABS light still on. I would have expected at least to see the ABS controller with VCDS. So looks like could have a wiring fault , in addition to anything else that might be wrong, and wondering if anyone (@Breezy_Pete ?) has a ABS wiring diag for this car (2010 mk2 fabia 1.2 htp, can supply VIN etc if needed) so we can buzz through and check connections. Checked fuses but there could be more than the 2 we have checked (25A one in engine bay and 5A in the interior fuse box). Any other pointers gratefully received ! I was thinking as next step hooking up the replacement ABS unit to VCDS and 12V power on the bench to see if if the replacement unit works, it came with the harness connector connected to a short length of the harness. thanks muchly

quick update on this folks, have had an initial quick look and re-bled all 4 corners, JIC this wasn't done properly, still the same, so will try clamping all four flexis next and re-check pedal feel. quick question on this, the wheel cylinders have hard lines into them the nearest (only ?) flexi being the short one that loops over the trailing arm joint, is it ok to clamp the hose at this point ? All four corners look like they need a really good service, reading up on a similar issue on the T4 forum (see link below) the problem could be with the rear shoes/ drums worn excessively , so will also attempt to get the drums off and have a peek next (quickly tried when bleeding but they didnt seem to want to come off, will release the shoes this time and try again). can check the wheel cylinders also at the same time. https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/threads/t4-very-unusual-brake-problem.114410/ also, the brake fluid in the reservoir was (is still) quite dark, we tested with a brake fluid tester and it passed ok, so we only pushed enough fluid through to check each corner was air free, and then topped up, but not enough for a complete fluid change. if the previous garage had bled the brakes, as they said they had, I would have thought the fluid would be clean/ golden, but maybe they just did what we did and only pushed a small amount through, enough to check air free at each corner. i.e. bleed as opposed to complete brake fluid change. thanks for reading

thanks Alasdair and Breezy Pete, I have had a quick look and it looks like the wheel cylinders are secured by 2 socket head bolts, as per the image in the link in the post above from B_P. ones I had seen were Apec, ok price, reasonable brand.

thanks Alasdair again and Goz, sorry nothing to report back as yet as I haven't had a chance to get any time on it, but it's a good tip to clamp all 4 hoses, and I will also look at getting new wheel cylinders. in terms of sourcing the correct new parts, is it like the VW T4, i.e. there's a PR code for the brakes (front and rear) ? ? cheers

thanks both, sorry for the delay in replying. yes have a pressure bleed kit (gunsons) and already checked cap is thread not bayonet 👍 have now checked and it has drums not calipers, no obvious signs of fluid leaking, i.e. on ground, but could be a small leak, so it sounds like I need to remove the drums, to get a proper look. I have a mityvac as well as the eezi-bleed. it idles fine not erratically. will chase up the master cyl in case it is this, one has been bought for it I believe as this was next thing on the list to check/ change. and you have both mentioned this. and, yes, correct spelling is spongy, sorry about that ! thanks again Alasdair and Murdockman !

Hi peeps Friend's Fabia 1.2 HTP 2010 has come to me to sort the brakes out, which leave a lot to be desired. It does and will stop but there is a lot of travel in the pedal. it doesn't quite reach the floor when pushed hard, but can't be far off. Pedal feels very spongey, it has been taken to a garage and they have bled the brakes and otherwise done all they can to fix the issue, but it is still not fixed. So it has been passed to me to try and sort it :-( I have done the basic servo test, i.e. pump the pedal with the engine off, until it stiffens - which it does (but still has a little give in it), then switch engine on and check pedal sinks to the floor - which it does. I will re-bleed the brakes myself, just to rule this out, but other things I thought to check - vacuum line (and non return valve) - looks ok just on brief visual inspection air in abs - need to use VCDS to open valves in modulator ? leave pedal jammed with wood on it overnight before bleeding brakes ? ? rapidly operate handbrake while bleeding to expel air from rear calipers ? ? owner has a new master cylinder to be fitted, in case it is this, but I haven't been given this yet. any other ideas please, is this a common problem ? (I have done a quick search of the forums) Cheers for reading, thanks in advance,

quick update on this, been a long day stuck upside under a dashboard. (relay plate is horribly inaccessible). vehicle now runs though. fuel pump relay checked out ok when removed and tested (relays usually pretty reliable and this is just the most basic four terminal (SPST) jobby). fuel pump and car ran ok when pump hard wired to battery via a manual switch. concluded that there must be a break somewhere in the wire from the relay output to the pump, spliced in a new section of wire to bypass the split and all good. switched output from FP relay (position 7 in dash) is a thick blue wire, now connected by new wire section to the Fuel pump feed which is thinner blue/ white stripe cable - would like to confirm by checking wiring diag that this is ok (well it works).

many thanks for all your help, will check tomorrow and come back to you. 👍

ok thanks will check all those fuses, this website seems to broadly agree with the numbers youre coming up with, though the relay info doesnt match. relay numbers are embossed into the plastic ? https://fuseandrelay.com/skoda/fabia-2.html Yes was planning to make up a link to short the relay contacts, and no, Ive not yet heard the pump run. and we're not getting volts to it (as above, assume they're the thick wires of the 5 that go into the pump, colours brown (pin 5 earth ?) and blue/white (pin 1) see photo. thanks chap.

JR and sepulchrave, I did say I hadnt ruled out an immo problem and said I would get VCDS on it (hoping VCDS lite will be good enough in first instance, Ross-Tech website suggests it should do some immo functions) and I also said I wasnt sure even if there was an immobiliser light on the dash., so I concur !

ok appreciated and no worries, thanks for the info. btw, fuse #16 is listed online as power steering, same 5A rating so I'm wondering are the others I've listed above correct. ? it's all a bit of a minefield isn't it !