supramonsta

Thought I shouldnt be so lazy, and should try to help someone else instead of always asking for help. My [WEIRD] experience with Octavia 2014 VRs key fob not working. And PAY ATTENTION Key not working [remote buttons]. No light when pushing buttons. Car recognises key and tells me to replace battery. I changed battery. No effect. Tried another battery, no effect. Swapped working battery from other Fob to no effect. Conclusion.... key electronics dead. Left last battery in Fob for 5-10 minutes while googling my fate, researching relearning key by unlocking door blah blah. Picked Fob up and pushed button .....BOOM..... light working. Went to car, remote buttons didn't do anything. Relearned key by appropriate method, and YAY.... 2 working keys?...... go figure Point is...how many people are ripping batteries in and out and saying that its crap batteries.....this battery definitely didn't work when I first tried it. All batteries I tried I pushed the remote buttons multiple times to no avail. Hopefully this helps someone ACTUALLY.....after research using AI.....it could be [and this happened] the fact that I left no battery in the FOB for 10 minutes or so. Apparently residual charge can affect electronics. I may not have tried that battery immediately after sticking it back in, as I had tried all the batteries previously!

UPDATE. [For the sakes of everyone who has helped me] My soot mass was over 36g so I thought I should take the car for a run to get VAG DPF values while the car was running for troubleshooting purposes. I gathered this would be my last drive due to not wanting to max out the DPF and make it impossible to to a forced regen. I have just truly realised how close this was, coutesy of information from the VAG DPF forum, https://www.applagapp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13 Apparently at 40g calculated soot its off to the dealer for a regen, and at 45g its a new filter!! Anyway, to keep you up to speed my car apparently wasn't performing a regen due to a Throttle Actuator issue, and had been throwing the Glow Plug Coil flashing light and codes stating TAC stuck open, and TAC low voltage. I took it off and cleaned it, although it only had a wet oily smear inside. The gears and electronics were clean and undamaged. After putting it back on, I cleared the codes, but the P2111 TAC stuck open came straight back on. I took it for a drive and had engine light on, glow plug coil on, and DPF symbol on. Today, taking it for its last drive before I was going to purchase a new TAC [had nearly done this a couple of times in last few days], I noticed the engine light wasn't on. The glow plug coil was flashing [and I am sure this had been solid], and the DPF light was on. I had to drive 8km to get to a highway, did about another 8 km on the highway to get some VAG DPF figures, and then headed for home before the soot mass got to high [i was monitoring this constantly]. Climbing up the hill [at about 40 km/h] and I looked at the VAG DPF app and saw a LOVELY BRIGHT RED DPF!! It was performing a regen!!! Now I'm actually wondering if after I cleaned the TAC, put it back on, and reset the codes that they reappeared because they were pending. I realise thats not possible? So maybe its an intermittent fault? But it wasnt very intermittent before. I reset the codes 2 or 3 times to no avail. Anyway, time will tell. Next question/s....any comments on the state of the DPF? Why does the Nox sulfur charge read zero? I am still under the impression I may have had the wool pulled over my eyes here. The oil ash residue is too low for a car having done 240 000 km's the mileage since last regen @345 kms is low considering soot mass was 36 g my calculations tell me it will regen again around 200 kms or less [barring any issues] AND ...... I have managed to get my hands on the full service records from the mechanics, and at the last service before the previous owner sold the car to the dealer I purchased it off, the workshop forced a regen. That was the only regen at service hmmmmmm...........

Thanks for this valuable data to give an insight. Are you still around and do you still have the car? Another update would be great!!

Thanks. Every other one ive read about exhibited physical issues. The fault codes match what your telling me. I appreciate the information and your time. I better start looking for a replacement

By the accelerator pedal I gather you mean the ASV [TAC?]. Im hoping its that simplistic, only thing is I had it off and it looked fine. Cogs were fine, and I cleaned it although it only had a layer of fresh oil. I am going to try and activate it while its apart to physically see its travel prior to replacing it. When you say the DPF looks fine I am not sure you can tell from that static shot while the car was not being driven. I have read a post about a different make of car after someone had reset the DPF values. The main issue is how fast the soot levels climb? I do not know where the "measured" soot level icon has gone that I have seen on other posts, but the calculated was climbing fairly rapidly when I took it for a short drive on the highway. A possible indicator of this is the fact it says the last time it regened was 313km ago, and the soot mass is 35.6. Isnt this high considering they are meant to regen every 300 miles [480 km's]. Then the Oil Ash Residue is way to low. I wasnt aware that DPF's are only good for 200 odd km's before they are stuffed. Nice of the car dealer not to mention this. I have apps that can read DPF Bank 1 Delta Pressure, Inlet pressure, inlet temp, outlet pressure, temp, etc, but I do not know how to decipher the data. I am really thinking that the DPF was reset before I brought it without anything being done to it. They certainly did not replace it here in NZ at a cost of around 8k when I paid 10k for it. I am wondering how the oil ash residue is calculated as that may give me an indication. As far as long fast runs go, thats mainly all it does. It usually does a 30 min trip at 100 km'h at least. Recently it has done to hour long trips at 100km/h. It was regulary maintained all its life by specialised Euro dealers in NZ with the correct [expensive] low ash oil etc meeting VAG standards. The VAG allowance is shocking, but I am probably near that figure. The strange thing is I spoke to the previous owner who said it did not use a noticable amount of oil??? [scratching my head] Once again, many thanks for your help and any further advice appreciated.

Thanks Bomber for all your info. It is very helpful for me to decide on a course of action. The time you have taken to reply does not go un-noticed

Hi [the bomber from Ireland ] The similarity of the issues on the same model car can be overlooked. How many miles were on yours at the time? Did you find the source of the oil loss? [Turbo? Rings? DPF blocked?] Im interested you say that the DPF fault was constantly showing. Did that force the car into limp mode? Yes, gutting the DPF is an option, looks like a bugger of a job though. It is definately on the list, after I try replacing the ASV [TAC] to clear that fault and then trying a force regen. Only trouble is I am still back to a car burning ****loads of oil. I have heard that a blocked DPF can cause excess oil consumption but I am unsure why. Thank you for your help

If anyone's still looking at this, could you comment on the fact that I have 35g calc soot mass yet its only been 300 kms since last regen? does this seem extraordinarily high? Im also wondering why I am missing the soot mass measured icon that others seem to have? Also I am wondering that although my car is telling me to look at the handbook regarding a dpf clean, does this mean I have to take it to a dealer? Does anyone know if I rectify the TAC fault if Carista will let me force regen? I tried it yesterday but it didnt work. I gather its because of the TAC fault. I am now getting a fault P2463 DPF Restriction - Soot Accumulation. Im really worried this is the end of my car. The fix is about $8000 in NZ 😞 Any help appreciated.

The car runs very well. It doesn't throw heaps of faults, just started with the low voltage fault from the throttle actuator.

Thanks again for your help. Excuse the short reply I'm on my phone now. Option C is a possibility here in New Zealand. We do not test for emissions. Interesting you ask about the battery, although I am unsure why. That is definitely one area that is probably not that great. From fully charged and sitting in a garage unused for about 6 weeks it definitely struggled to start the car. Its not the best condition.

Tivan, Thanks for your post. I appreciate your time and comments. I too was mystified by the oil ash residue. I am wondering though, as I brought it off a dealer here in new zealand and they acted like they were a private seller, if i had been played. Mind you, its not an easy process to clean the DPF?? What worried me was after I got the car I ran diagnostics from Carista and it told me that the engine faults had just been cleared [like immediately beforw I purchased it]. I have done about 13000km's since I purchased it and now all these troubles

Hi all. HELP, please. I am really getting tired of European cars...I love them, but am beginning to dislike them very fast due to the fact they dont seem to be able to do 10,000km's without dramas. I have a 2013 Octavia VRS 2.0 diesel. Recently it threw a solid preheat coil lamp while driving. Next time I drove it it went away. Then it threw it again. I scanned it with Carista....P2102 Throttle Actuator "A" Control Motor Low Circuit. Then I got start-stop malfunction. Then engine light on with flashing preheat coil. Then the DPF light [which I've never seen before]. Now I also have P2463 DPF Restriction. I also have manufacturer specific 05188, 05295, 09124. I pulled the throttle actuator control off and although oily, it was only a layer....not soot as such. I cleaned it, the cogs were fine, it all looks OK. Put it back together, and same intemittent low voltage faults. But more worryingly.. I cant force a regen. I tried through Carista, did all the things i'm meant to....drove at a million miles an hour for a million miles.....blah blah..... I just purchased VAG DPF but buggered if I can find decent instructions on how to decipher the data. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.....I know that the bar up top saying 100% means it should regen , but what is the +73% [that worries me!!!!] Im not sure why i purchased the app, I have no idea about how to use it. The main thing I wanted to check was the oil ash residue........ Does anyone think that the low voltage circuit is stopping the regne? Should I throw caution to the wind and buy a new TAC? Just a note, this car has been religiously serviced its whole life prior to me buying it. The other thing to note, it is going through a crap load of oil.......maybe 2-3 litres every 10000 km's. There is a definate layer of oil in the pipe from the turbo to the inlet manifold? Not gunky though...... Sorry if I sound grumpy.....I am 😞 I have a 2010 Mitsi Pajero with 500,000 km's on it and never misses a beat. Anything I touch European gives me no end of headaches//// So sad, as they are such well appointed cars. Why can't VW get their **** together?