Shaiogded

Its getting close to 470.000km Idk about the oil ash volume, so far it seems to be a static value in VCDS, never seen it change, but the other two do change and I need to have the spec above 36g to trigger an active regen manually, the ECU will not let me otherwise, and I've never been able to catch it at that high value. Since this started after I stopped adding additives, I started again. In addition to Metabond Megasel, I've thrown a bottle of DPFCC, and it worked... I've refilled 4 or 5 times since then, and I've allways added 4-5ml of additives per 10L of premium diesel. Still smokes a bit when cold starting, but nothing excessive, and especially when its cold outside. A bit of moderate smoking when the active regen is close to finishing, but only did it once so far, after approx 600km, in the middle of a trip. I've also felt a slight increase in power, as it started screching its wheels when flooring it hard from stop. Noticed this in an intersection, I still have winter tires and the road was dry, and I have really grippy tires. I guess short hops and cold weather did a number on my dpf, but it still says 300ml, even when the other values are 5mg for spec and 0 for calc. I have no idea how old the DPF is, need to find out. Might also been some bad fuel batch as I refilled in that period from the same station. Once I had an injector issues every time when filling from OMV, but now I am using their subsidiaries, Petrom, never had issues with them before, and the engine always had some spank in it with their fuel, even when I was not using extra additives, compared with OMV premium diesel which I always felt it made my engine run smoother, quieter, but also lazy when going from stop.

Hello, Recently I started noticing more regens, mostly due to not driving too much on the highway. I checked with VCDS, but can't make heads or tails of these readings. Sorry for low quality pics. I drive each week on the highway at 3k+ rpm, and it seems to help, but daily I drive 10km in the city, and almost every week I get regen cycles starting in the city. Even after a long drive 200+ km, when I park, it still wants to spend another 20 minutes finishing a cycle. Is my DPF full? I dont have a max volume ID, or I am not looking in the right place... I did throw a bottle of Metabond DPFCC today, but silly me forgot to take a reading before. Since september, I am constantly using Metabond Megasel on each refil, but in december and january I stopped and then I got the most regens. Few weeks ago I went on the highway 50km with 4500 constant rpm, but did not seem to do awfully much The car has 467775km on the clock, and I am not experiencing any performance issues. My engine code is CEGA and unfortunately VAG dpf lite does not support it. Any help would be apreciated.

They unwilling to check for this type of modifications as they do not work with them. Basically its not something standard for them and they won't do it. If there was an ECU issue (which isn't) they would just reset everything, which may or may not reset the map, depending how it was done, if there is a modification. So, in order not to mess with the car, they wont poke around that bit. I never said they know or don't know if its remapped. I stated that I tried to ask for help from my Skoda dealer, just in case anyone would suggest that, here. To be clear, their answer is "No" and I totally agree with them, its not part of their job. If this was an issue, which I need to stress the "not an issue", then they woul've restored everything to factory defaults, which I don't wan't them to, if there is a modification. Probably overexplaining, sorry!

Hello All, Had some car issues recently which got resolved, and wondered if it affected its performance. To my surprize, for a 440k km car, its really snappy. Did not know to ask this when I bought it, but was through an intermediate and probably did not knew either. The car was taken care of really good, and still looks good, and I am trying to take good care of it. The dealership told me that they do not work with remaps and would not go into checking for one. The other day, I found this post https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/463072-chippedremapped-how-would-you-know/ -- Specifically, this So as a good boy, I've done what was listed here, and these are the results. Could not find an empty street, but florred it on straight ones once traffic was empty. On the highway it actually goes to 25, but could not make a screenshot when driving, and Torque wiped the data when I stopped. I also have a VCDS but don't know how I can go about checking with it. So, is the engine remapped or I did not check it correctly?

Hello ALL. Despite receiving no replies, I am compelled to share the solution I've discovered for the benefit of anyone encountering a similar issue in the future. Following the replacement of the EGR and intake manifold due to substantial carbon deposits, the problem persisted, albeit with less frequency of triggering limp mode. However, with warmer weather towards the end of January, gradual improvements became apparent. Even when faced with cold mornings, the car had no issues. Yet, my confidence in its reliability remained shaky, particularly as it would occasionally stall during highway acceleration attempts, prompting further investigation. In a curious turn of events, after getting a rescue cat from Facebook and subsequently taking it to the vet due to mouth odor, upon returning to the car, I noticed the "Check Rear Left Foglight" MIL illuminated. A simple tap on the light module miraculously resolved the issue, sparking my curiosity. Reflecting on the timeline, I recalled that this entire saga began the day after navigating heavy fog on the highway, prompting me to replace the fog lights, which appeared dim. So I visisted the dealership and asked them to check the wiring on the read lights, as juttering the lightbulbs did not produce any effect, other than turning them on sometimes. Upon revisiting the dealership, it was discovered that they mistakenly inspected the front fog lights instead of the rear ones. While awaiting an electric diagram from the dealer, impatience led me to inspect the car's rear thoroughly. Surprisingly, no anomalies were found everything appeared intact. However, upon closer inspection, one fog light was found to be completely non-functional, with two position lights exhibiting a blackened tint. To err on the side of caution, I replaced all twelve light bulbs, leaving no room for uncertainty. After this, I embarked on a 600 km journey with the car, encountering no issues whatsoever. Even during aggressive accelerations, the car operated perfectly. In retrospect, it appears that the ECU's erratic behavior was triggered by the presence of one or two nearly burnt-out light bulbs, a seemingly minor issue with significant consequences.

Hello, Sorry for ressurecting an old thread, have ypu gotten to the bottom of the issue?

Hello gidi, Sorry for replying to an old post. Have you found a guide? Havind the same issue here...

Hello Guys, Today, after I swapped one of my front tires with one on the back, to find the culprit in the steering wheel vibration (more here) I decided to go on the highway, while moving through town felt a violent car shake, and I blamed it on the wind, I was at the peak of a bridge. Everything went fine, I went up on the highway, and then 5 km in, the Glow Lamp MIL started flashing , and the car started shaking, more violent when accelerating and I was losing power, I entered limp mode with 50 km/h max (barely). I got off the highway parked where I could and just let it cool, then started again and went off and it was fine, but started again after 5 minutes, and I limped another 5 km back home. At home, I plugged in my OBD and got the P0203, I opened the cover and messed around the plugs a bit, and then the shaking and flashing went away. To test it, I went back on the highway, and 20 km in, it started doing it again, pulled over, pulled and pressed the plugs again, and went off. But it was not responding as it used to, so I just stayed at 90 km/h and went back home. When I got back I plugged in my VCDS cleared the codes, and tested again, but this time there were no P0200 codes anymore, so I started messing around with the plugs some more. I've now gone on a 10km trip on the highway with high speeds and haven't had any issues, but I do feel some vibrations when accelerating, and I am starting to wonder if this may be the same culprit I was chasing in the post above. The car now runs OK I would say but it's a bit more shaky than normal, or maybe it's just me, but something tells me this issue is not over yet. I would LOVE to take the plugs out and clean them then, maybe there is a bad contact, but I haven't found ANYTHING online, there must be a tool or a DIY way to take them off... I've also I've also read that the brake light can cause a similar issue, but after clearing the fault, it went away, the fault was there because I changed some dim bulbs yesterday. Any help would be appreciated!

Changed all 4 rims with brand new ones. Felt the vibration once, but everything was quite fine afterwards... The road was a bit wet due to fog and I was at the beggining of my drive, could this cause such vibration? More to this, could dry roads cause steering wheel vibration if you have winter tires equiped? The thread on these tires seems to close down when they are dry and open up a bit when they get wet. I am not that car savvy, sorry if its a stupid question. These are my tires https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Dunlop/Winter-Sport-5.htm

Sorry for the late reply. I've bought new rims and installed the tyres on them. The rims are identical to the Original Zenith 2, beeing ATS Anttares 7x17 et54 5x112. The ride feels better now, its no longer vibrating when going straight, but I felt it vibrate when turning with the road and I was at 120-126 km/h at one point, then stopped. Interesting is that it only did it once, and I could not repluicate the issue, so far... Could it be that the vibration is coming from the tyres? It was extremly foggy today and the road a bit wet, and I was at the start of my ride nad the tyres were not properly adjusted to the road surface yet. Also due to being extrely foggy I could not floor it as I was barley seeing 5 meeters in front of me, even with the fog projectors, will give it another try when I get the chance. Is there any diagnostic I can do myself? I only repair the important bits at our Skoda dealer, and they are booked for the rest of the year... I do have a VCDS, but last time I run the diagnostic, which was about 1 month ago, it did not caught any direction issues. I will also need to drive about 400km this weekend (200 on highway and 200 on national roads), do you think it will be safe? I do take my car out weekly on our local mountain roads and indulge myself with tight corners and serpentine roads, so far I haven't had any issues.

I've done that when I balanced the wheels previously and found out that they were not balanced. I will go and do just that, hopefully, this week. I do not feel any vibrations worth mentioning (maybe different things, road, wind, etc) when going straight, no matter what speed I am on. The vibrations do kick in when turning the wheel slightly, but not actually turning the wheel. It's like this, trying hard to explain properly. 1. I start turning the wheel but not committing to the turn, the steering wheel has a small window where I can move it slightly without actually affecting the wheels, this is a very small window. 2. If I pass that free movement window and commit to the turn, I feel a force that is opposite to my turn, it's not that great, but that's when I feel the vibration. 3. When committing to the turn and actually turning the wheels, the vibration fades. I will try to record this if needed, but I don't have a habit of driving on the highway with a phone in my hands.

Hello Paws, Here we call these drive shafts, "planetare", I know that the name is misleading, but that is how we call it, and could not get a translation, also did not know what to look for as I am not that car-savvy. The screenshot is from a random drive shaft (planetara) So....back to the subject at hand. Do you think this is a drive shaft issue?

Hello guys, This is my first time posting, please be kind. Car: Octavia 2 FaceLift 2.0 TDI vRS DSG Wheels: Original Zenith 17" alloy Tires: Dunlop Winter Sport 5 XL R17 205/50 Mileage: near 440.000km, maintained I would say properly. The issue started tires this September, about after I changed the tires, and also had a minor accident where I scrapped the rear of the car a little, which was due to speed + sand on the road. While cruising between 110 and 150 km/h I feel the steering wheel vibrating This is not an issue below 110 or above 150. The vibration seems to be worse when I am turning the wheel, while I start turning, I can feel a force in the Steering wheel that opposes my attempt to turn slightly and starts vibrating. This vibration is only felt when turning slightly, like when following the curve of the road. The car drives straight, it has high accuracy, and there is no vibration, or very little when going straight. Another thing I noticed is that when I am in High RPM at the above speeds, it vibrates worse if I accelerate. The vibrations are not something that causes loss of control, it's just annoying. What I tried so far - replaced front wheel rods - aligned angles - rebalanced the wheels 4 times, in 3 different shops. - the last time I rebalanced at Pop's Corner shop, the owner there took his time, taking the tires apart, which were unbalanced from the previous shop. - after reseating the tires, inflating them to 4 PSI to set properly, and properly rebalancing them, I still get the same vibration, even if it's slightly better now. What I noticed is that my engine, when cold starting, shakes, which may indicate worn Engine mounts, can this cause this issue? I've also been told that "planetary wheels" (I do not know what this is called in English, so here is a screenshot) might be damaged and need changing. How much would this cost to change, the car is automatic, google says not that much, 300 euros, but I've been told that it might be north of 1000 due to the car being automatic. My Skoda dealer, where I've done most of the repairs told me to go to a different shop as they don't have the equipment to align wheels and angles. I've gone to a shop and they low-key told me to change the entire direction system (and car) after I paid them for the diagnostic. Went to a different shop, which told me to change the front rods as they were stuck, and they could not find anything else that could cause this issue. I will go back to Skoda in January to change the Intake Manifold (flaps issue) and also the engine mounts, if anyone has experienced a similar issue, please let me know what you found. Please let me know if I should add more info.