gidi19

Update So the new genuine part came,and ut was the f revision. Measured jt with the meyle one and they are both identical. So either the f revision is the right part or i need the b revision. Spent another 4 hours trying to fit it in,and snapped the top bushing. Out of pure frustration, I just put everything back together again,the best I could and have now parked the car up. Its making a vibration noise, but thays probably because I havnt done a proper job. Just going to give to a mechanic and let them sort it out.

So the first time I got the A revision from ebay. Febi make. Second time I got the F revision from autodoc mylee make. Both are wrong,ive got the CRLB engine so should have got B revision,but chat gpt told me F is the updated revised version. Whay a load of malarkey. Hope the genuine ones turn out to be the right ones

Hi. So after spending another 3 hours today trying to fit it in,I gave up. Out of curiosity I compared it with the genuine one that came out and it seems the mylee one i ordered from auto doc is a few mm bigger then the original one. So ive now ordered the genuine one from TPS for £116 which will arrive on Thursday. Lets see how this one goes. Turning into a proper nightmare. Only place that does the correct fitting tool is laser 9082 but its cost £650. That's just too much

Hi all, Just an update. So it was definitely the cause of my issue. I ordered a cheapy bush removal tool and managed to get the old bushing out. The top part was ripped and I manged to rip the whole rubber apart by hand. Now this is where my battle has began. Trued putting the new bushing in using the tool. Failed miserably and after 2 hours of struggling,managed to crack the new mount casing. Upon further research,realised I had the wrong part.it was off by one letter. So ordered the new updated bushing. That came today but still same problem. Ive ordered a more expensive tool but it still isnt the right tool,its for the old aluminium subframe. I am at my wits ends. Please cam anyone link me to the right tool. I cant justify paying £700 for the laser 9028 tool that im being told i need. Sorry for the long winded text,spent over a week with the car on ramps unable to move

Hi all. Cars been making a horrible sound over bumps,mostly noticeable on the passenger side. Also when accelerating i can feel the left side jerk. Have narrowed the problem down to the sub frame bushing or dog bone collar. Can someone check the attached video and advise if deffo subframe off job or is there a easier way. Also does the amount movement look like the problem. VID-20260503-WA0000.mp4

Hi, Mine has the same issue. When you say mechanic replaced the pcv valve, was it with one of them after market kits,if so it wont fix your problem as I learned the hard way. What you really need to replace is the rocker cover which has the pcv valve built in, cant be replaced separately. Also go for a good quality rocker cover and not a cheapy Chinese one.

To be honest, I don't know how but it sorted it self out. At the time I thought it was because it was getting too hot due to the hot weather we had at the time.

Just a quick update. Managed to have a go at fixing the issue. As Cairus stated one of the green wires was damaged and was barely touching each other. Managed to solder them together. Wasn't the best of jobs but will see how it goes. Was a very tight space

I'm assuming its a steering wheel off, remove left stalk and try find the broken wires.

Hi all. Keep getting an error on the dash saying 'driver assistance button not working' it keeps randomly popping up. Vcds scan shows it as 226843 turn signal switch. Everything works on the car and everytime i try clear the code it pops back up. Read on other forums that it might not be coded correctly so I tried using a different code and that didn't work, just brought up more error codes. Can anyone suggest what might be the problem?

Hi all. New fault with the car. Skoda superb 2016 lnk 2.0 tdi. A message appears on the dash. Keyless access system faulty. Keeps beeping whilst driving. Ive tried turning keyless entry off via vcds and hasn't made a difference. Vcds scan shows short to ground on driver side door. Has anyone had same problem that can advise? So far the solution looks like a new door handle but would like a second opinion before replacing. Only way I can drive in peace is by keeping vcds connected to the car and clearing rhe code whilst driving Thanks

Only way to fix is by replacing the heater matrix. Its not a hard job, just a bit fidly. Whilst replacing the heater matrix its worth replacing the coolant reservoir with one without a silica bag in it.

Shame to hear that. Doesn't seem like mechanics want to do any problem solving anymore. Just a good old, replace the whole engine. Oil light came on again after heading back from the inlaws on a 110 mile journey Stopped at a service station and noticed some new oil marks on the oil pcv valve, I made sure I wiped it clean before I set off and intentionally did not top up the oil. So im going to maybe investigate the pcv valve a little further. Will take a pic and post later

Quick update. Piston soak has not made much of a difference. Car has done currently 400 miles and oil dipstick is below half mark. I had it filled to the top. Im going to keep driving it till the oil low sign comes on. Any update with the turbo check? Car drives completely fine. Managed to hit 110 with no issues, just to try clear any thing out

How did you suck the liquid out? Did u put any oil in the chamber before trying to crank it? Thx