peternsomerset

Just for completeness, fitted the dash-cam a couple of weeks ago and all is OK. FWIW I piggy-backed on to fuse 43, bought a cigarette socket and used the supplied lead as a voltage reducer. Fed lead with a thick wire across to LH side and up and across windscreen as advised. All invisible except about 20mm across to the lower door seal but does not show as both cable and plastic are black! Tucked excess cable in space with cable ties. PS I got the tip to use socket with original cable from a local professional fitter, he did not like to use Ebay power converters! Hope the above may help others.

Just for info and a sum up. I put two foam filter strips between both top corners of the digital dash and another between the bottom left corner of the right front vent, drove along the problem road and all very quiet. removed each one in turn, the two at the top of the dash were my main problem but the vent joint was making a slight noise. The filter foam can be compressed very small so used a very thin blade to push them in and they cannot be seen, problem solved. I do still have a slight problem under the passenger side facia but have seen other cures for that and is not a priority ATM. I also have a hearing aid it amplifies the higher frequencies, so I could have removed it to stop the problem!! Glad the info has helped.

I feel I should explain a little more background, the car, as you say, is well made and a pleasure to drive and is generally very quiet, but near where I live is a long road that is worn but no potholes. When I drive along it I get a continuous rattle near the digital dash, it is noticeable because the car is quiet! I have already taken it to the dealer who admitted is was rattling and had it for 3 hours, they told me they had cured it but it still rattles. I admit most cars do this to some extent but mine was particularly annoying. I just thought my info might be useful to others who might have this problem. PS I have now been told by a couple of Skoda owners near me to avoid using the garage as they do not have a good reputation! Thanks

Hi, I have read through various blogs etc about this topic and have the dashboard rattle since buying my 21 reg last December. Took it in under warranty and the garage said it was fixed but it was'nt. I have now positioned some foam strips around the top corners of the dash black hard plastic and it seems to have cured that particular problem. I will gradually remove each piece to find if it only needs one piece. FYI I did not use ordinary foam with adhesive as it was a little too thick, I wanted something less dense that would reduce to about 1mm and found the air filter for me old Vax did the trick! Its about 5mm uncompressed and can be inserted easily between joints with a thin balded knife. PC fan filters are very similar. I still have a couple more to find, one very anoying seem to close to my right ear on RHD car! I will silicone the door seals before going further but the hard black plastic around the digital dash was the worst as others have found. what also made it worse were the 18 inch wheels and summer tyres in cold weather, As the fronts were over half worn I changed them to Continental All Seasons which have a "V" shape tread which also improved rattles. Hope the above is of some help to others.

Thanks for the info that will further reduce risk of problems! I am still deciding on a dash cam but have a hard wire kit and hope to do it next week.

I was going to attempt it today but weather was bad! A brief video would be great showing the routing and tips, but in the meantime ...... could you please confirm the following regarding the front camera fitting: did you need to remove any of the sound proofing under the dash/stowage box to route the cable? did you route it between the roof lining across the joint at the top of the A pillar (by releasing the the top of the A pillar cover) then around the door seal and back at the joint towards the stowage box? Sorry if terminology is not 100%! Thanks

Thanks aubrey, that's what I was thinking of doing and I will try it.

Could anyone confirm my assumptions as I intend to fit it in the next couple of weeks!? Thanks

Just for clarity, the green line is where the cable should be tucked in, it cannot/should not be pulled or inserted on the route shown in red!? Thanks

Hi, I have read various article and checked some videos on hard wiring a Dash Cam but before starting can simeone confirm if the wiring can be easily looped from the LH side of the mirror towards the RH pillar towrds the fuse box behind the coin box on the RHS on a UK RHD Kamiq? I assume the cable will have to "loop" around the edge of the large centre plastic mounting that contains my road sign camera! Thanks

I fully agree with you, I took it in today mentioned the pressures and was diplomatic, they could not confirm if they had checked them and I agree 2.5 bar does seem a bit high. They did conform it was a bit "creaky" on a test run and there was also road sign error message, I was told I could have it back later today but they were still working on it at 5pm. In my sort of twisted mind, I am a little encouraged by that, assuming it was actually worked on when I left it!

Hi, I have now resolved my problem, I had a mirror to line up my nearside wheels which was too low because the running or head lights would blind me and couldn't see the arrows on the cardboard fixed the back of the cupboard. I raised up the mirror so I am no longer dazzled. A picture paints a thousand words!

Thanks for the info, I was not aware the effective pressure was calculated by variation in circumference. Just checked and mine seems to be the same as your Karoq. My main concern is that the dealer lowered the tyres significantly (27%) to help stop noise from the digital dash/black hard plastic surround. There was and is no warning and I think it was reset at the lower pressure. The problem is it may or may not cost me to put right as per other posts I have seen! The car was bought on the Skoda Approved Car Scheme with a "100 Point Check" and did not get a report on what they actually did and I assume they checked/set the pressures.

Thanks for the replies. I am a bit more wiser now and will try to get the dealer to say he had checked the tyre pressure when they did the 100 point checks! If he does, then I think either the service department or sales deliberately reduced the pressure to help quieten the rattle which has got a little better with the recent higher temperatures . FWIW in reply to an earlier poster, I have hardly driven the car since I bought it and checked water/oil in the first week of owning the car. I am quite a practical person although a little ancient, have rebuilt wet cylinder liner engines with paper gaskets and have some knowledge of engine oils and their use, I also have recently replaced front struts on my old car to get it to pass its MOT!

How exactly does TPMS monitor tyre pressure? I am asking this as I bought my car via Skoda used car scheme which has a 30 day exchange! After a couple of weeks getting to grips with driving a DSG and all the electronics I decided to check pressures which were all 1.85 bar instead of 2.5 bar. After resetting I now have a dashboard rattle (stops when pressing between top right corner and top cover). This seems to be a well known problem and the local dealer is investigating next week. I think the dealer may have reduced the pressure to stop the noise and would like to know what the pressure differential is to illuminate the warning light, is the a set percentage or actual value? The dealer is supposed to have carried out a 100 point check before I bought it and I assume they checked the tyres! There was over 26% drop in pressure and no pressure warning light but from an email to "sign in" next week it states I could be liable to costs which others have said are likely to be high. I really like the car but the rattle is about 30mph and quite annoying. I think this might well have been known to the retailer. my very old Peugeot 307 had this problem and I cured it by wiping some silicone spray around plastic dash surround but am reluctant to do anything as the car is under PCP contract ATM. Any info and advice as to what to do would be appreciated. Thanks