peternsomerset

Thanks for the replies, I need to firt check the wear is actually 70%! and make the decision when or if I need to do it. I will then get back to confirm the tool that worked!

Hi I have a 2021 Kamiq and the MOT has advisory note that the rear pads are 70% down. It has a manual handbrake and before deciding to do the work myself I have the following questions: Do i need a rewind tool to compress the pistons? Would the following tool be suitable (Screwfix: Hilka Pro-Craft Brake Caliper Rewind Tool (4119R)? Some information states pistons can have left and right hand threads, are Skoda pistons normal RH threads? Thanks for any information/advice before deciding!

Update Some more information for those annoyed with rattles around electronic dash. After quit a while with thin plastic strip in top left corner of the bezel I decided to cure it properly. Removed strip to check if it had distorted enough to stop the problem - it hadn't. Removed the bezel and all metal clips were present and tight fitted. On checking the "tabs" I found they all had black cloth stuck on them. It looked professionally fitted but my dealer did say they had not removed the bezel when I mentioned the problem previously. After looking carefully at the bezel and its location into the soft dash surround I suspected the rattle was due to the edge "lip" and the other "locator" strips rubbing against the surround (the likelihood of plastic rattles increases with time as it progressively hardens). As I wanted to prove my assumptions and before fitting foam (as suggested), I decided to use silicon grease. I placed a very small amount on a cloth and rubbed it on the the extreme edge of the bezel and plastic locating tabs, refitted the bezel and no rattle. The above may also be accomplished by cleaning the interior plastics with cleaning sprays as they seam to contain plastic lubricants. I will resort to fitting foam should the problem re-occur! Hope the above helps anyone irritated by any small rattles around the dash.

Thanks, I do agree its the best course of action. this seem to be a knowm problem in general with modern cars but maybe quite rare. The roadside assist did say (in effect) try rebooting the system by switching off the ignition and locking the car for 10-15 minutes, and when asked if this was common, was told no really but sometimes cures the fault and doesn'y seem to happen again. The dealer (Mon Motors) would not commit to doing the diagnostic FOC if there was nothing found faulty or it was not covered under the Skoda Extended Warranty. So if there was NFF I would need to pay about £90 but at least could insist on it being registered. I was told a year ago that S/W would not usually be updated unless there was a recall or there was a fault attribuated to it. I think this is short sighted and S/W should be updated at any service as it does not take much intervention by the mechanic.. I have to decide if I want peace of mind and pay the cost or live with the uncertainty of it happening again. Out of interest is there a way to find out what the latest versions are for my model, and are the responses given by my dealer common? Thanks

I just found my old ODB2 elm scanner and run a "Torque" Android app. No faults logged Did an OBD sensor teat and all OK. Assuming my basic scanner is working OK, I may cancel the Skoda booking. There were quite a few sensors and it took about 2 minutes to un through them all! Just to make sure it was working, is ther a simple way to put on a fault condition that would prove it was picking up a fault code!?

Thanks for the info, I have booked the car in for a diag check but its not until 24th July and they will not guarantee I wint have to pay! They said if it happened again, to get roadside assistance to take it to them and they would treat it as urdent, but if it clears itself i doubt if they will do anything. I have an OBD 2 scanner but cannot find it ATM to just see the fault codes stored. Will have to just wait and hope which is a bit disconcerting.

I have a 21 reg 1.5 DSG that dies on me tonight and need some advice. I satrted the car OK and drove 1/4 mile to trafficlights when the engine died. The engine light came on yellow and red triangle but did not see any text to point to the failure. Tried to restart, turned ignition on and off but no starter and both engine and triangle remained lit and constant. Phoned recovery (Skoda) who suggested I switched off the ingnition, locked the car and waited about 15 minutes. As time had passed (about 8 minutes) with the ignition off but car not locked, I thought I would try again ....... and it now runs OK. I then cancelled the call out and drove home (5 miles). The breakdown person suggested it maybe a software "glitch"!! I assume there are failure codes I should be able to see in the OBD or should I ask the dealer to do it as it is still under the extended warranty? The suspicion I have is that the dealer will delete any fault codes and say they cannot find anything wrong! I would not like this to happen again so I would like to know what caused the problem, was a S/W problem or other sensors nearing their working limits. I just want some reassurance It wont happen again on a moterway on when abroad. Any advice appreciated Thanks

Not tried to pull it out yet but did you need to use any tool or was it just brute force!?

Did you have to use any tool to prise it off or just finger nails!? I was thinking of trying a wide piece of plastic with a small thin right angle end (if I can find or make one). Thanks

Thanks Ryan-vrs for the photo, very useful. Whilst I agree with Carefree about rattles, in the past there were lots of different ones and were more accepted, nowadays cars are much quieter and my Kamiq was and is, the quietest I've ever driven. The problem for me was that it always rattled on a 1/2 mile stretch of road near where I live that I use almost every day and was very annoying. The clips are of the types commonly used and I have had problems with them over the years. FWIW I have found either the clips get slack in their mounting holes/slots or the plastic pins/pegs become loose and cause light plastic rattles particularly if the car is old and plastic hardens, The area around the steering column/dash is often a problem with vibration/rattles as is heating/cooling of the air conditioning behind the dash. To cure problem with these clips, if they are in good condition, I bend the locating tags so they fit tight in their mountings and also bend the metal in the slots to make sure the plastic lugs also fit tightly. I also wipe all likely plastic interfaces with a cloth sprayed with silicone, this normally solves the problems. Assuming the car has been engineered well, I would replace any broken/missing clips to ensure the surround fits centrally. The above is just based my experiences over the years and my be of benefit to other readers, I have still got a plastic wedge in the surround but now i know how it is fitted I intend to do as detailed above. Thanks

I had used some very soft PC fan filter foam slightly to the right as shown in ryan-vrs's photo. This eventually seemed to start again and i definately think its behind the dash and putting a wedge at the top between the hard and soft plastic seems to stop something further inside rattling. I have now used a very thin black plastic spacer used to centre double glazing windows into frames, it is harder but cannot be seen when pushed in hard and my Kamiq is now very quiet, not perfec but am happy. hope the info helps others.

Update The query was raised directly with Skoda, who seemed to be in Germany (VAG I suspect) who then passed it back to Skoda UK! Yesterday I got an email stating exactly the same answer as verbally given by the local dealer, which quoted the manual again! I was told to call in if I still could not sort out the problem. After 3 minutes at the dealership I found the "Skoda Crystal Lighting" units needed to have deflectors fitted and the manual does not cover my lights! They are indeed not matrix but have cornering (not sure if it makes much dirrerence). On rechecking against a smoth white surface (which my garage door isn't!) I found the beam does have a slight increase in beam height on the left but nowhere as much as my old 308 Pug, so it may be possible to get away with lowering the beam but I have not took the chance of an instant fine and bought deflectors which are a little difficult to position because of the curved surface and four square internal curved lenses. This problem has waisted my and Skoda's time due to the many variations of the car not being covered in one complicated manual which is a shame. I hope the above helps clarify the position. Thanks

logiclee no reply from Skoda ATM. I am now certain they are non matrix, but what is the difference between projector and reflector LED's? (I assume these are all LED types) I only have a ridged door but fairly flat and they did seem quitea flat beam, but might be wrong. They definately are not as high on the left as my old 307 though! If I don't get an answer before I go on holiday then I will buy deflectors as advised just in case!. Thanks

I did read your earlier email and others. There are different types and I was told yesterday by the local dealer that there was no need for any adjustment BUT due to my previous experiences, I had a "chat" with Skoda UK who were not sure but confirmed they were not Matrix but did have "cornering"! They said they THOUGHT they did not need any adjustments but suggested I consulted Skoda direct where I sent details. Their phone number is in Germany which seemed strange so I assume its VAG. I await a definative answer and will post for info here when I get it. As an ex-tech author I think a manual for all possible variations is confusing unless it is complete which it does not seem to be in my (and others) case! Thanks

I just tested the lights as suggested in another thread. Lit up garage door on main beam then dipped, no sideways movement, so the manual is not for earlier LED headlights and they have flat beams so need no adjustment or beam deflectors on the lenses. I maybe wrong but this is what I now assume.