RR-Vliet

This is wonderfull to read! I am so happy that my build inspired someone else to do something silly with this puny 1.2 engine. I lack the theoretical knowledge to calculate how a turbo should perform to be able to sustain 230hp, I just went for the marketing number. Seems that this number might have been too positive. I am hoping to attain 200-205hp after the tune, which is much more in line with your calculations and probably also the max for this turbo. This means that custom conrods might not be worth it, but I am going to inquire nonetheless. I bought a 200 cell kat from UPP: https://www.upgradeperformanceparts.com/product/downpipe-golf-7-1-2-tsi/. This cat did not throw any CEL codes even before tuning, and is APK (Dutch TUV) compliant when warm. The quality, fit and finish are very good, I am more than happy. This, together with a mid-pipe delete, has completed the exhaust side. It is combined with a K&N Filter, MST Intake elbow and some piping on the intake side. Unfortunately my gearbox did not like the extra power, this was from before the downpipe. My driveshaft bearings came loose, and the gearbox started leaking oil. I replaced the gearbox with an overhauld MYF MQ200, I hope it will last longer than the previous one. And that is not all, my stock clutch (with 230kkm on the clock) also gave out. Shifts were imprecise, revs sometimes flared and launching was impossible. I replaced it with an upgraded Sachs organic clutch disk and upgraded pressure plate. Not cheap, but it has fixed all my problems: https://www.zweimassenschwungrad.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_category_id=4010&virtuemart_product_id=7204&Itemid=165 And because the car was much faster than its suspension could take, I also upgraded the front end with poly bushes, fitted a new gearbox mount to improve shift feel, fitted Bilstein B6 with Eibach springs, braided brake lines, chassis stiffening bars and the list goes on and on. I am not going to post any pictures of that, as this is an engine tuning topic. For the future: I did log my intake temps last week in England in the mountains on hot days. When going full throttle 3k rpm+ up the mountain, air temp before the IC was 110+, while air temp after IC remained ambient +20, between 40 degrees and 50 degrees. Very happy with that. The engine sometimes pulled 3 degrees of timing from a cylinder to protect it, but immediatly recovered back after the knock was contained. I also logged my fuel pump, which never went over 55-58%. EGT before catalyst peaked at 640-670 degrees after which it dropped while pulling, which made me very happy. I think you should add another +150 degrees to get the actual exhaust temp (as this was just before catalyst) but I do feel safe. Below a screenshot of one of the logs. I did NOT log my wastegate duty cycle, I will do that soon. I just changed the oil and installed 4 new spark plugs for my tuning session next week. As I said, I am going to discuss the merits of conrods and I am going to share my dyno results and my tuners opinion. If you have ANY questions, need help with ordering the downpipe from this Dutch company, need more logs, need special info .. Whatever, don't hesitate to post! I am very willing to help, and I am looking forward to your experiences and possible improvements for this platform! I am tuning for the hobby, and I love that someone else shares the same passion.

Oh, and one more question. How much ho can this turbo flow? Mine is advertised as a 230hp turbo. Really curious what the differences in spool time and top power between our turbo's are.

That's wonderful to read! Please keep us updated. I installed a downpipe 4 weeks ago, and the dead feeling before the turbo kicks in is much less, driveability has improved greatly. My turbo now starts chugging at 2200rpm and is whistling by 2500rpm. Proper power is available from 2800-3000rpm, for when you want to overtake on a small country road. I am going back to the tuner next week. I will update this topic with new dynograph. I am going to discuss custom conrods as there are no conrods available for the 1.2. I want to seeehat the next restriction will be when running custom conrods. Not sure if it's worth it, we'll see. Also thinking about shorter gears, my mq200 manual has economy gears which means 5th and 6th, and to a lesser extent 4th gear suck. 3rd gear is already 160kmh...

Bought an Octavia 3 1.2 TSI with 190.000km on the odo and oil consumption of 1L every 4.000km. I had it tuned to stage one, but this barely improved the power. Furthermore, there was a lot of detonation. My tuner changed the stage one map to fix these issues but the power never came. His conclusion was that the intake tract was completely gunked up. The oil consumption got worse over time untill it hit 1L every 1200km this summer. I contacted Biggelaar Motorservice in Nuenen (The Netherlands) to fix my oil consumption (https://www.biggelaar-service.nl/). He also installed a new hybrid turbocharger which I bought through my tuner, Rica Engineering Wateringen (https://rica.nl/nl/). When Biggelaar opened up the motor the damage was obvious. A completely gunked up intake tract, 8 burned up exhaust valves, 3 bent connecting rods and a lot of carbon deposits. Biggelaar replaced the exhaust valves for 8 new ones, installed 4 new and modified pistons with upgraded oil scrape rings and replaced the bent connecting rods for new ones. Unfortunately we couldn't find any upgraded connecting rods for the 1.2 TSI. He also installed a hybrid turbocharger which I brought along. This turbocharger was purchased through my tuner Rica Engineering. After doing a good 1000km (easy going, letting the new rings settle etc. etc.) I went back to the tuner to get the hybrid turbo mapped. The first run showed that the stage 1 map with the hybrid turbo only delivered 124hp. This is due to the changes that my tuner made to the stage 1 map when we found out that my car was detonating. After a lot of back and forth the tuner finally got the lambda values where he wanted them. He then started feeding in the power. As you can see on the dynograph below (the final result) the turbo shoots up to 1.1 / 1.15 bar as quickly as possible at 2200 rpm. After that, the turbo pressure build-up is slowed, to reach a maximum of +/- 1.4/1.5 bar at 3200 rpm. This slower pressure build-up (hopefully) prevents the connecting rods from bending again. 'The internet' says these connecting rods can handle 280nm, my tuner indicated that he could achieve that if we let the torque hit full force at 2200-2400 rpm. Because of my previous experience with these 1.2 connecting rods I didn't want to push it, so my tuner kept max torque below 260nm and spread the torque out over a greater area. That doesn't take away from the fact that the car now drives really nicely, these power figures work very well for this 1150kg car.