FabiaGonzales

There is a gasket set available on AutoDoc for around £25 or so. They're not difficult to fit. If the oil drain isn't leaking i'd suggest leaving that one as it's a pig to get out (the o-ring sorta welds itself into the turbo, i was able to hang my whole bodyweight off it and it didn't budge, there's almost no room to get a pick down the side either). But beside that, the oil feed and coolant gaskets are easy enough to change.

Overboost means the turbo is exceeding what the ecu is requesting, perhaps the wastegate is sticking a bit. You don't need to change the map sensor. Custom tune would be a dyno tune for example, where they tune the car specially for upgrades you have done like turbo.

You need it properly custom tuning to increase the boost, the 1.4 turbos can handle 1.5 bar boost and hold that pretty steady up to around 5000rpm on the 1.2's, you should be able to reach 180bhp with a custom tune

The head unit comes in two parts, the display unit and the control unit itself. Looks like you've only got the display unit there.

Does the light on the fob flash when you press the buttons? I found that shop-bought batteries were dead out of the box. Had great success with Duracell CR2025's ordered directly from Amazon. They sell alot so it's always fresh stock, rather than ones in a shop that've been sat on a shelf for several years, potentially baked by sun etc.

Stock mq200 clutch can take around 280-300nm torque, or about 210ftlbs ish, stage 1 shouldn't be pushing it far past 240-250nm, or about 185ftlbs ish. The low end torque you lose is below 2000rpm, however i found it actually makes it easier to use less fuel since the turbo is less agressive at low rpms. There is also the "small" 1.4 turbo (from the 122/125bhp variants) which will make about 160-165bhp, and a little less peak torque, but it is more responsive than the bigger 1.4 turbo.

Part Numbers: 6V0 863 242 * xxx * is the revision letter: No letter - 1st Revision B - 2nd revision C - 3rd revision All will fit and are identical in terms of apearance etc, 1st revision has no sound deadening, 3rd revision does, i can't speak for the 2nd revision. xxx is the colour code: 9B9: Satin Black FSW: Cherry Red HUS: Wild Grey LIG: Stone Beige I'm soon to be swapping out my satin black one with a new red one, wish i'd known you wanted a black one as i'd have done swaps 😂 There are a few available on eBay but obviously 2nd hand, they cost about £70 ish brand new from Skoda. If you'd be willing to wait, you could have my old black one for free (provided you cover postage or collect it yourself) once i get to a point where i'm able to fit my new red one (i'm waiting on parts that are still on back order, so i don't have any kind of timeframe for that).

These are standard parts on Monte Carlo trim cars. You can get the parts seperately from dealerships, they are quite expensive though, and usually require painting before fitting.

I could push mine out i think another 5mm, but i decided to err on the side of caution to avoid any rubbing. I've never had any rubbing on mine as they are now, front or rear. Are yours ET35?

Yeah they're 30mm front 45mm rear. I'm also running 7J ET46 wheels with 11mm spacers at front, and 16mm spacers at rear. I'll hazard a slight guess and assume your aftermarket wheels are 7.5J, which will make the tyres look a little thinner, and it doesnt look like you're running spacers?

Downpipe (with cat delete) will make it louder somewhat in general, you'll gain maybe 5-10bhp over a stage 1 with a downpipe, with a little more noise but nothing major. I've attached two pictures of my car running eibach pro-kit springs. Running standard shocks for now, but with shorter rear bump stops from the ibiza cupra r, as it was bottoming out a little too often with the standard bump stops.

IIRC the particular one im thinking of comes with attachments for both charging an external battery and via 12v socket. Could be wrong though

What about one of the CTEK chargers that uses the 12V Cigarette Lighter socket, easy enough to install/remove too.

I'm not aware of any clutch issues? It's the same clutch on both the 5 and 6 speed too. The stock clutch seems to be generally able to hold up to around 300nm. My clutch has now got 101k miles on it, 181bhp and 285nm for the most recent 28k of those, and it's still rock solid. I thought i'd finally killed it a while back but it turns out it was just contamination, still kicking on lol

2.0T Golf R engine and IS38 swap? (Or that new garret one?) I imagine it'll take a bit of wiring work swapping the ECU across though.