Outfoxed

Update- I spliced in a magnetic adjuster cable acquired from a scrap engine and once the magnetic adjuster was also replaced the engine now operates normally. This is after a year and a half of messing around and no-one being able to diagnose the fault-however, the valve timing still lags in the low rpm range. Not a problem , just noticeable compared to the higher rpm range

If the intake cam magnetic adjuster is replaced , should the exhaust cam adjuster be replaced too? Engine is still not revving cleanly under acceleration.

Does anyone know if the cable that plugs into the camshaft magnetic adjuster is 2 pin or 3 pin? I want to replace the existing plug and cable as I am pretty sure this is causing an intermittent fault.Both the camshaft oil control valve and the magnetic adjuster have been replaced .

Does the camshaft have to be locked in position to allow the oil control valve to be unscrewed?

Does the camshaft need to be locked in position to allow the valve to be unscrewed?

I have the correct removal tool but need to know what the correct procedure is to unscrew the valve . Application of moderate force did not move it even slightly.

Thanks. As soon as I realised the valve was not unscrewing, it was time to hand the car over to my local garage!

I have tried to unscrew the camshaft oil control valve using the correct removal tool but it will not move even using a long torque wrench. I know it is reverse thread. Has anyone done this and is it supposed to be as easy as unscrewing the valve and extracting it? I am at the point of asking my not so local specialist garage to do this job for me.

I am now aware that this pin is supposed to move in and out freely per my photos. My next move is to replace the camshaft oil control valve as I believe that is part of the fix.

This is a very obscure question.Camshaft adjuster magnet.The centre pin on my current part does not move in and out when unpowered. Is this normal? I found a used item and an aftermarket item where the pin does move freely in and out when unpowered. Does anyone know the answer to this? Reason for removal is engine does not rev cleanly through the range under acceleration. Thank you guys.

Too long!Major main dealer screw up. I did extract all the debris from the cylinder and it was confirmed no damage done . We think the faulty injector did not help… I would add that I am fully confident that this is a reputable engineering company with the ability to diagnose and repair major engine faults. My original post was whether a 2011 Superb can be considered an end of life vehicle given the number of faults it has picked up I agree with that analysis but the cost of that degree of strip down and parts replacement would definitely take it beyond the value of the vehicle.

A full engineering inspection was carried out which verified normal cylinder compression,no issues with piston rings and no damage to cylinder walls or pistons. The definitive diagnosis was the valve stem oil seals for No 3 cylinder. There has been high oil consumption with this engine.Hopefully things will improve once the required work has been carried out .

Interested to know if a 125,000 mile Superb 2,0 TSI (2011) can be considered an end of life vehicle . I had a spark plug disintegrate a few months ago . It was heavily carbonised so my first move was to have the injector replaced. However, the spark plug still showed contamination. It was then determined that the valve stem oil seals for that cylinder were faulty. In addition, a replacement turbo actuator was required. DSG oil service also due. My question is whether such failures (including recent water pump replacement) have been experienced by other members at this level of mileage/age of vehicle

I have lived with rpm specific vibration buzz for months and you would think 3 garages and a Skoda dealer would have seen this before -no. Finally found a mechanic on YouTube who realised that it is the fuel pipes vibrating in their enclosed tunnel under the car floorpan. I injected expanding foam into the space-no more vibration buzz. Hope this helps anyone who is still being tortured by this issue!!

18 inch alloys with Nexen 225/40 R17 94V tyres. Tyres fitted 6 months ago.Asking £400 (Nr Glasgow)

Whilst driving to work at 04.45, EPC and EML lights came on with rough running and limited throttle response. Nursed car to work and back. Despite the published descriptions of doom, I thought this may be due to low battery voltage. Very quickly discovered one of the battery terminals was not tightened. Everything now completely normal.Result! Posting this to highlight that battery issues can cause electronic gremlins. Used to be a common problem on BMW e39…

This may have been covered before …EPC and EML came on suddenly with very rough running and limited throttle response. Nursed car to and from work. Despite the published descriptions of doom, I thought this may be due to low battery voltage. Very quickly discovered one of the battery terminals was not tightened. Everything now completely normal. Result!!

I am trying to gain some familiarity with all this before I look at fitting the unit so thank you for explaining things

Thank you for that confirmation. What about the thin brown wires?

My car has an ‘upgrade’ that is of little use to me! Would prefer to revert to Bolero multi cd unit. For now , could someone please enlighten me as to identity of pictured wires. Was thinking brown insert block is speaker wires…Many thanks,Stephen

I see 16 inch alloys are not listed as OEM for my 2011 2.0 Tsi estate so would this have to be declared as a modification for the insurance? Also, is it acceptable to go from 225 to 205 ie 205/55 R16 ? Thank you for any comments