Jogon

I did think it a little weird that the needle didn’t even move not even a tiny bit, that was on 2 of the three cylinders, I was thinking it might just fluff the needle but there is nothing. I will give it another shot tomorrow, it’s why I tried it on an older Peugeot engine first to make sure the compression tester functioned. I havent as yet tried the 3rd and final cylinder but if the weather leaves me alone tomorrow i’ll try that one also and come back here. I guess swapping back from the intial odb reporting faulty cam sensor to the replacement that she got was will make an difference to the test?

Ok, so the compression testers arrived, don’t need the more complicated one, used the cheaper one, identical to the one alasdair posted up further uo, I first checked it one cylinder of a Peugeot 205 petrol, registered 155 and stayed there. So, pulled all the electrics of the injectors first so no fuel being dumped, pulled 1 of the 3 plugs again on the Fabia and put the compression tester, zero compression, tested it on the 2nd plug which I had also managed to finally get the rubber sheath from the surrounds, zero compression. I checked the battery, was resting at 12.6v and I’d charged it a few days ago, but just to be sure I gave it a boost from a powerpack. One assumes this is now worst case scenario? It does of course crank , can see movement in the engine etc?

Thats helpful, thankyou, I’ll try Skoda on Monday (or vw as assuming they’re the same coil packs on a Polo as they are on a Fabia

I ordered both the sets, they should be here in the afternoon (Saturday) From what I can make out the rubber is part of the coil pack? see this post on the forum and which i’ve just posted in https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/534182-can-i-use-damaged-coil-packs/ Noted regarding the acceptable percentages, will come back here when i have something more to go on (dependant on what time the items land later today Saturday. Ok re the easy start, next up is compression testing and checking out the fuel pump Thank you again those adding input, it really is much appreciated.

How did you get on with this, I’m mid way through trying to diagnose my daughter's non starting fabia (have posted my dilemna on here) that just stopped on her, same engine code as yours and I’ve removed one coil pack so far and encountered the rubber issue, destroyed the rubber to get a socket on it. (taking plugs out to check compression test/see if i can see any physical damage from a potential slipped chain, Did you end up having to change the coilpacks? or did you leave the rubber off (would that not cause some arc’ing?)

Is this the same thing? I can get one of these or one like yours for tomorrow, this one is £23. (just thinking it may be more idiot proof for someone like me, or then again more technical? The description for the one in the photo is as follows Automotive engine cylinder leakage test kit:Cylinder leak gauge set is designed to detect a variety of common engine faults such as worn piston rings, cylinder head cracks, worn valves and blown head gaskets. It checks the amount of leakage in an engine cylinder and helps determine the source. The cylinder leak tester is suitable for detecting whether the air-tightness of the cylinder of the automobile engine is within the allowable air leakage range. It can also further judge the leakage location and cause from the analysis of the failure phenomenon, so as to take measures to eliminate the failure. Double scale compression testers with measuring range of 0-7bar and 0-100psi, suit for any petrol engines fitted with 12mm or 14mm spark plugs. For use with most makes and models of vehicle with petrol engines (12 and 14 mm spark plug thread), the measurement range up to 7 bar / 100 psi is measured with an accuracy of ± 2.5 %, flexible hose with quick connector and dual pressure gauge. Car leak tester kit detector tool is designed with rubber protective cover on the pressure gauge, anti-drop, anti-scratch, ensure the safety use.

I’ll keep trying to get the other two plugs out if i can work out why there is a rubber surround on them making plug socket impossible to get on, I couldn’t see any damage on the one piston, as in if it’s smacked into the valves, i’d have thought if they had even a light tap they’d be some metal damage viewable. I have no idea what these rubber surrounds are doing as photos of the coil packs/spark plugs don’t appear to show any inserts/covers

Does this render the engine dead or is it not quite as bad as that?

I enclose a photo of the plugs in situ, but one has the rubber surround, the other which i first took out and left some rubber debris when taken out has no longer got any rubber around it? I have tried to remove the second plug but cannot get the socket round it due to the rubber shield, on the first one it was sort of prised off a little with a long handled screwdriver by the initial recover guy who then managed to get on the socket to get it out, alas when it went back in some of the rubber was still around the shaft and fell into the block, which i then managed to get back out via some stickytape wrapped securely inside out mainly round a long pices of hard wire which lifted it out. I guess the valve timing is to check the chain hasn’t broke? Thats beyond me at this point

Thanks again for the replies, still stuck on the drive. I can confirm there is a spark from the plug, I have took a plug out and placed it against the block whilst my daugther turned the ignition, the spark was there. I can hear the fuel pump engage when first turning the ignition on, or at least I think it’s that, it comes on for a second or so as if priming and then stops. Thanks re the rubber in the plug, think thats it (from a socket that was applied from a lawn mower long reach one. In edit to the above, I’ve took off the coli pack to a second plug and that two has a rubber sheath around the top of the plug which makes it impossible to get the plug out with a conventional socket, i’ll put up a pic if i can get one from my phone How does one compression test it? I’ve stuck it in gear and pushed it a little, seems to be as normal when you trying pushing a car say for jump starting, it engages/jolts a little?

Apologies for the delay, I was away at the weekend with zero internet which was a pain. Thankyou for your input Alasdair1 / Warrior193 / Breeze Pete On returning home earlier today it was noted in the cylinder that was open via removal of the plug that when the person removed the plug for me there was an amount of rubber on the top of the plug which came off, when he removed the plug some of the rubber went into the opening, I've fished it out luckily but I have a notion they tried to start the engine with that bit of rubber in there? I confess to being a little out of it with engines, I'm struggling to get anyone to take a look, although it won't start I'm told that a compression test would help diagnose further. I'll be fully checking the alternator wires tomorrow, I've checked every fuse under the steering wheel, the only error code I can find on my icarplus obd is the camshaft sensor which as stated previous my daughter had replaced roadside before it was recovered back to our address, didn't make ay difference. I can't even tow it to a reasonably local garage that I sometimes use (they stated they'd have a go at diagnosing it if I got it to them) because the power steering isn't working due to my not being able to get it started, making it pretty heavy on turning the steering wheel. I'm at a loss as to what to do, my daughter is fretting as she has Uni restarting real soon and no car at her disposal, I don't want to write it off as prior to this issue it really has been flawless and she has really gotten on well with it. If anyone has an idea/ can come take a look, give me a reputable garage in the east mids (I'm near Ashby de la Zouch) or can come speng a bit of time on it at my address to at least get it diagnoses (expenses paid). failing that I don't have a clue. Thanks anyway for your input, it's much appreciated.

Hello Alasdair, thanks for your input. I checked the wiring, there are two wires, red and blue that go to the top, they appear intact? I’ve since managed to remove one of the spark plugs and turned the engine over via the ignition and although it wont fire/start the piston was moving freely inside the barrel of the spark plug. One thing i did notice was the plug that came out seemed a little dry but came out ok, but the gap seems artificially wide but maybe thats me, does the plug look healthy/unhealthy? I checked the spark on the plug (placed it against the engine) and no problem with that either.

Hello, 1.2 Fabia, 2013 engine code CGP - 12v 3pot - 101k on the clock - 51kw. Power? Vehicle is well maintained, regular oil/filter services, clutch replaced at 85k. Last week my daughter was driving home, 10 mile journey, engine management light came on 3 miles from home, she pulled over to see if there was anything untoward but nothing, vehcile felt ok, no overheating etc She drove the 3 miles home, stopped for a short while and then had to go back out to her friends a mile away, when she got in the car the engine light after starting did not come on, she states she thought the EPC light might have come on. As she was approaching her friends, car seemed a bit ‘off’ and then came to a halt and would not start. She tried starting it, car seemed to turn over but not quite the same as usual, her mates dad came out to her with his OBD, error stated camshaft sensor (i think) they went off and bought a new sensor, put it on to the car but it was still the same. Prior to this there were no knocks, no rattling, no misfiring no jumping, nothing. I enclose a short video of them trying to start the car, I’m not a mechanic, but if the timing chain had broke what would be the tell tale signs? Hopefully I can enclose a short video of them trying to start it after they attached the new sensor I’m in the east mids, my daughter uses the car for commuting to UNI, I have no idea who or where or even how to get it anywhere for a formal diagnosis. Thankyou in advance for any points/advice given IMG_0161.mov

I can buy just the arm, for about a £5 but how do they actually fit? there are no bolts/threads just a bush.... Burt yes may just buy the whole thing if it's not too much of a faff to fit. I note they sell a set of repair clips that hold it on once attached, presumably this would be a short term fix.

Ok, have gotten a bit further and it looks like the bushes on the arm that goes to the passenger side is goosed It look like one of the rubber bushes has dried of any grease it may have, do I need to grease it and try and 'pop' it back on or is it a complete new wiper linkage that is required as presumably the rubber bushes are not available separately?