Doily

The flexi needs replacing on my 1.2, CGPA petrol engine. As the front end of the flexi is very close to where the pipe starts to bend up to the cat, I'm wondering if welding the new one in will be necessary, rather than clamping. Has anyone come across this problem when replacing the flexi section only? TIA

On my HTP engine I did not have to remove the inlet manifold to get at the crank position sensor. I got away with undoing the (5 I think) bolts that hold the manifold to the head and then pushing the manifold against the bulkhead. There was enough flexibility in the wiring and hoses etc. to be able to reach down to the sensor without having to do any more dismantling.

Yes thanks. Yesterday I gave it a waggle and it works fine. I have given the selector mechanism a quirt of WD. Thank you for your input.

This morning I could not change gear (5 speed manual) and had to leave car at home. Last night I had to negotiate some floods. Is there a connection?

Are the backs of your rear seats secured correctly?

I'm sorry to read about your problems Jogon. I replaced the coil packs. Like you I was concerned about arcing etc. I could only find replacement rubbers on line from China and I wasn't able to wait for delivery. I did not know Skoda called them coil pack towers. I searched under coil pack rubbers. Good luck.

My 1.2, 12 valve, petrol never starts on first turn of the key (hot or cold). It cranks over normally but will only start when I return the key and then turn it a second time. Then it starts straight away and idles and drives normally. I get no codes on my VW code reader and no warning lights. I can hear the in tank fuel pump running for a few seconds on each turn of the key. I'm wondering if there is a non return valve in the system somewhere that is meant to retain pressure for the next start? Any ideas on the cause would be very welcome. TIA.

Why does my 1.2, 12v, CGPA never start on first turn of the ignition key but always starts on the second turn of the key (hot or cold)? It's only behaved like this since I recently changed the timing chain etc. (involving removing throttle body and inlet manifold). Once started it idles and runs perfectly. No codes are shown on my (fairly basic) reader. No warning lights on dash. Have I disturbed something when doing the chain? TIA

Got back to working on car yesterday. After undoing manifold screws there was enough flex in the hoses and harness to move the manifold sufficient to give access to the crank sensor (thank you again Breezy_Pete). The sensor pulled out without a struggle and the locking pin slid in likewise. Day off today. Back to working on car tomorrow.

Thank you for your replies Breezy_Pete. Was the engine out of the car?

Are there any tricks of the trade for fitting the crank timing tool on my 1.2, 12v, CGPA please? I can't see or feel what I'm doing when reaching up from underneath. Thanks very much.

I've got into a bit of a pickle whilst trying to change the chain etc., on my 1.2, 12v, CGPA. With the old chain still fitted, as I slowly turned the crank to get to TDC with a spanner on the pulley nut, the chain jumped on the crank sprocket. And now, when I get to TDC (by lining up the dots on the crank and balance shaft gears), the slots on the end of the camshafts are a mile out. Thinking I might be at TDC on the exhaust stroke, when I turn the crank about 45 degrees it comes up against a dead stop. I'm thinking that is a piston hitting a valve. Is there a way of finding out if I'm at TDC exhaust or TDC compression? I'm thinking that if I knew it was the compression stroke then I could adjust the cams to fit the locking tools after I remove the old chain. Thank you for your help in advance.

When I pulled the coilpack off each plug on my 1.2 , 12 v/v, CGPA, HTP engine the rubber (plastic?) sleeve detached from the coilpack and was left behind on the plugs. I damaged each sleeve to fit the socket to get the plugs out. I thought changing the plugs was going to be straightforward - I never learn. Can I refit the coilpacks without the sleeves? TYIA.

Breezy_Pete, for future reference, would you say brush replacement could be a DIY job?

Sold my Mk1 with 1.2 HTP engine with a timing chain, tensioner and guides that had done 160k without any problems. Just the normal "death rattle" on startup.