Adamo

Hi ive been doing some investigations on another thread here but have found that if you are willing to use pry tools you can remove the lovely shiny outer skin of teh box and reveal the really simple latch inside it, if you did that you can open the glovebox , remove it, and fix it possibly with the fix also in that thread. you would need to be willing to glue the outer layer back on again with something, poss jbweld or airfoil glue im not sure.

Also, the jb weld worked perfectly with the two plastic types of the main box tabs and the very stiff plastic of the mechanism.

You can see where I started to file the outer so I could get it back on. With some more filing the plastic outer fitted back inside the ferrule and the latch now has a really positive action and doesn’t pop open on ‘bumps’. This self opening glovebox thing seems to be common I think this is at least one reason and fix for it I didn’t even have to push the ferrule far onto the outer but at least 3mm did the trick.

Made a discovery ! The 2nd hand box had the issue where it opened itself on ‘bumps’ or with a slight push . Closer inspection showed that the ferrule had come off the cable outer , in effect making the cable longer and not leaving so much movement possible for the latch. hHere it is removed from button but it looked the same when fitted to the button. The wire outer should be inside the brass ferrule.

Here is the mechanism both clips circled in yellow allow it to rock slightly and create a knocking noise . The hatched area has room for a layer of deadening mat whatever else, and the mechanism was very easy to remove . Will be able to add the mat and then reattach it with some jb weld on the clips .

This is fun, ok the main body of the glovebox being single skinned is a giant resonator , the latch mechanism is kind of clipped onto side of box and can rock slightly because the back most clip has play in it and the box turns that play into much more noise than you’d expect. Resting a finger against the loose clip stops the noise. I think this is the same as the pressure on the knuckle I’m finding its way to the mechanism. so : a) make some felt washers for the pin and see if it does the trick on real glovebox if it doesn’t solve it: b) find way to make that clip solid, I’m tempted to use JB Weld instead of trying to wedge stuff behind the mechanism which might come loose or compress over time. c) bite bullet and remove real glovebox , check and glue that same spot and then if room add some deadening mat to the glovebox rear. You have to remove the vents to get the box out so I could check that creaky thing out too while I’m at it

Ok so the pin is made of a rolled piece of something with a split along its length I pushed it out with a 3mm Allen so can try out some soft washers ahead of the real in-car glovebox. There seems to be too little room either end to convert it into a bolt with nut. here is the pin, in and removed

@Dappernut well I can take a look with my sacrificial glovebox but I can't see much else in the mechanism that it could be.

Bothered by the creaky hollow sounding lid I decided to drill some holes in the inside face, squirt in some expanding foam (low expansion stuff) and make it more solid. The inside face gets a felt layer on top when dried and tidied. Had some second thoughts but tormented by noises I bought an identical model glovebox 2nd hand on eBay to take apart and learn from for this and teh knuckle sounds. So, the inner and outer skins come apart with a prising tool but they are actually glued together on an inner framework. Also inside there I found the simple mechanism that works the pair of latches and the spring that operates that. So I can see which parts to avoid squirting foam into - don't want to bind the latches!. Some photos of the inside layout, and the roulette the expanding foam will play with the latch...

Ok the noise is a constant loud rattle coming from this glovebox knuckle , any slight pressure on the closed glovebox will stop it until pressure released, if glovebox open then any slight pressure on knuckle towards the right stops noise too . Looks like the pivot is a hollow tube with allen key internal shape but 2mm is too small and 2.5mm is too big. Planning on trying a couple of felt washers slipped between parts soon

Still going crazy with this, narrowed one down to the resonation of the glovebox layers as @skomaz said , seems to be the knuckle of the hinge making the noise but made louder by the hollow facia. Have some plans to try and will post updates here for posterity.

Hi all usually my fan speed is set at 2. Sometimes when I get in and start the car it has reset to off, but sometimes it’s still at 2. Mysterious?! A clue perhaps? Googling didn’t get me far sorry

That’s good ! Sadly todays early morning drive showed the creak/tickle to be present still, argh

Hooray!! New part arrived (from LLLparts £22.50) with new clips too. Looked identical except my broken side tabs were now whole of course. Two or three more side clips made a big difference it CLACKED into place and two drives later i think its all good!! That means I can now hear the glovebox lid more clearly of course… Anyway a few more drives are needed as weather temperature sometimes affects the creaking but so far so good.

Still waiting for new part to arrive, during the last week or so the left centre front air vent started making an incredible rattle unless light finger pressure on the slider! Omg annoying anyway a hair bobble from one of the girls twisted around and behind the slider has silenced that one …

Mainly constant but sometimes totally absent. I’ve lined inside face with self adhesive felt sheet and it helps a bit but really I’m tempted to drill two holes and fill it with expanding foam just need time to check out how that might go wrong

The kids can make the rattle stop by pressing glovebox centre gently in. I’ve started adding felt behind the closure to try to hold it more in tension when shut, no success yet

Mine came with Skoda branded and I thought “ugh” but they’re brilliant in reality , great shape and fixings don’t move at all, and you can mop up the water after a wet day out. But really yeah I’d imagine they’re pricier than they should be .

Long drive today, starting to wonder if there is a second noise from top glove box mechanism too... Noticed a couple of the locating tabs on the handle cover are broken, don't remember breaking these but with the oddly coloured window switch panel perhaps previous owner broke those tabs when replacing window switch. Bit the bullet and ordered a new handle cover for £15 and will see if that helps. then I can move onto the glove box...

Yep good reference material thanks for this

ok! so todays small step was to finish putting small foam pads on the clip mounting tabs, basically a round pad about 1mm thick, self adhesive and 6mm diameter, placed on top of tab then the clip pushed on as normal but with less room to wriggle about. Then various foam pads stuck to flat areas to help suppress any resonance. will test drive it tomorrow. foam pad before pushing clip on:

Nope, two clips with foam and no change, will do the others when I get a moment

Closer inspection shows that the little yellow metal clips might have room to rattle even when engaged so put tiny foam piece on the tab to hold the clip in more tightly let’s see how that goes

Tried a short drive today with handle cover removed , got a slightly different noise now I think so will still be investigating the window switch next

Dear diary Ok so didn't have much time today after work so put a blob of silicone grease on every spigot that the metal clips attach to, door side and handle piece side. Quick drive confirmed this made zero difference. When I get time I will have to try what rbss suggested. After that it will be trying to get the electric window control panel out for a look-see