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Stuck top glovebox
I think this is because the outer cable pulls out of the brass ferule. I fixed mine by filing the sides of the plastic outer so it fitted back into the ferule so more or less the same as you’ve done. I agree it’s super sensitive to being pushed too hard by someone who isn’t mechanically minded and once that ferule is off it’ll never stay shut
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
Back, ok the warm weather means it’s been nice and quiet recently but a drive this morning after a very cold night showed the glovebox rattle still occurring. So today I removed the vent to right of glovebox and the glovebox too, with the button still in the dash you can get to the mechanism ok. I used a long wooden skewer to apply the JB weld glue to the tabs holding the latch mechanism onto the side of the glovebox. Here’s a photo with some masking tape under a tab just in case it dripped out. So will need another cold morning to see what difference it made.
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
bad news the rattle that can be stopped with a very light finger touch on the top right corner of glove box has not gone :( gutted tbh. Not sure what to try next, its conceivable that one of the glued supports between the skins has cracked - def a possibility given the state of the roads around here... in which case the original plan to inject the lid with low expansion foam might be back on. but its safest before that to revert to previous plan gluing the tabs that the latch mechanism is attached to side of box with.
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
Back and the road 90% likely to trigger the rattle was silent!! Looks like success but will need a few more test flights first
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
Ok today is the day... v cold overnight and still 8degrees now so conditions are good for rattle... Have replaced the pin with the m4 bolt, you need to wind it in so it doesn't protrude beyond the damper mechanism so you can get it all back into the dash. V easy, you pop the pin out and the mechanism doesn't freak out so v easy to hold in place while you wind the bolt into the hole. Images show box with all the deadmat, pin location and replacement bolt. It's all back in place now and am off for a test drive soon.
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
Nope! The lube made no difference to the rattle so it’s time for the pin/bolt swap next
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
(expensive but only tiny bit needed and works really really well on almost anything lasts ages too), bike shops stock it in smaller cans for less £££
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
Heh cheers I bought it because our garden trampoline sounded like hell
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
Well the good news is a tiny wipe with this stuff has removed the test glovebox left hand latch creak when lid is flexed…
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
After this, it’s possible to isolate the other sounds more easily and the left hand latch creaks against the main body of the box with slight sideways flex of the lid - probably the closest to the original creaking situations! So I’m going to try a bit of light plastic lube spray on the latch hook area shown here. Won’t have time to do the two fixes on the actual glovebox for a few days though
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
Dear rattle diary: Ok so that very loose pin is easy to pop out and can be replaced with an m4 bolt. The bolt has just enough purchase in the centre of the three parts to screw in by hand and won’t be coming out. The result is much much much less wobble and noise without any extra washers required. The spring opening mechanism is not overwhelmed by any additional friction. Before: IMG_5948.mov After: IMG_5956.mov
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
I know right. Well that bottom pivot pin is going to be replaced with an m3 bolt I hope with some giant washers to hold everything in line and some felt bearings I think. The peacemat made a big difference to the sound but not enough!
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
Glovebox rattle - removed both vents and added damping mainly in case they ever start creaking again. Removed glovebox (but not the button) and found a lot of play in the damping mechanism, like tons, and noisy, so I made a quick shim for the pivot with most play and glued it on, pretty rough and ready but much less play afterwards. Test glovebox showing play and a test glue of the shim material IMG_5902b.mov And the quick dirty shim! glues on in a couple of dabs just in case. Sadly this STILL isn't the source of the glovebox rattle!! it's still there and although more muted because ive covered the glovebox with dampening mat, it's, still, there... So going to find time to glue the right hand mechanism tabs but my real glovebox has far less play in the tabs than the 2nd hand one I bought to test on so maybe it'll do nothing at all... I suspect the VERY loose pin at the bottom of this picture, as teh rattle happens when going around a right hand bend, or on a camber leaning to left a bit, need to think of a way to gum it up without adding friction
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
Great ! All those thumping crashing holes in the roads that I was unintentionally hating every time suddenly seem much better! Will do all the doors in the end I think.
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Noisy door - creak hunt diary... 69 plate
Back to the original topic! Annoying creaking from top area of passenger front door. Took door card off today - much easier than expected. Used butyl rope around creaky as hell interface of main door and the top trim stripe. Also added some to other material joins. Then a single layer of peacemat over those areas and the main flat panels. Then about half the card covered with hydroweld sound absorbing fleece. Not going mad with it just want the creak to stop and the speaker to sound a bit better. Pics before the peacemat really got going. Also added the mat and fleece to window switch panel which appears to be a 3rd party thing hence the blue colour and was super thin plastic
Adamo
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