Fotobob

Thank you. I suppose the bad idle is not helping. Planning on taking off the ignition coils and plugs to inspect. The idle is pretty bad and hoping it is just the plugs. Noticed that. Thank you for the reposne.

Also, I see oil in the square marked blue in the image. Why would that be happening? Plan on opening he ignition coils and removing spark plugs for inspection. Crank sensor is a difficult location to reach but will do if the inspection does not yield any results. Do comment to help resolving. Thanks

So the current update i that the engine cranks but badly. There is a l.ot of misfiring and the idle is very poor. There is a lot of hissing. Now to research why and how. Do share your thoughts. Will update as and when I do make some progress

Will make a proper step wise record on how this was done and maybe help someone stuck in the same situation as me.

Thank you for the diagram. It cleared up the confusion on the wiring and help trace the fault. The relays can be safely blamed for it. Minor wiring issues were there but this probably is relay. I still don't get fuel level reading in the display. Will tackle that later, need to resolve the erratic idle. Guess I must not assembled the air supply correctly. Thank you once again for the support.

Pete, wanted to share this with you. The car cranked and started. Hesitant at low rpm but it started. Cleaned the contacts again, back of the fuse box, battery connectors and Most importantly replaced the fuel pump relay. Cannot thank you enough for the guidance. The car starts, such a relief. Now to work towards sorting out the low rpm struggle and stabilizing the idle rpm. Too much hissing and vacuum sounds. I may have installed the air filter box incorrectly I think. Thank you once again.

I do understand. Thank you so much for the help so far. I will continue posting on this thread and whenever you do find the time do browse. I won't tag you

When you say, you mean the ECU in the engine bay. I see no wiring damage in and out of the box. Not wanting to open the ECU is my strategy unless you think it is required. What else could be the reason for not getting the fuel level reading. What should be the voltage on the inner pins? Do these pins indicate the fuel level? Currently I get no reading on display and not warning of low fuel.

Yes did that. The readings mentioned above are with relay in position in slot 13. Also, when I jumped the point 30-87 and 85-86 the fuel pump started. Such a relief. The display did not show any fuel level and neither did the car start. But jumping the relay seems to have done the job. I suppose not clicking in relay is clear sign of relay gone bad. Will buy in new ones tmrw and see what happens after that.

Correct it is 0 and ignition position it shows 12v. When you say ECU pin 26, you mean the engine bay?

Will have to do this tmrw. Pretty dark and bulbs are out of power. Glad there is some progress

Jumping the relay point got the voltage to the pump and it's working now but getting no reading of fuel level nor cranking

These are the reading on the probes. Getting reading on 85 and 30 in ignition on position. Non of the fuses in the lower panel are showing any voltage. Port no 85 reading.

I have extended the battery ground and connect to that to measure. Will do that. Breaking this down into smaller steps seems better way to go. Thanks

Will check voltage in that one too. The voltage checking is to be done in position 30 and 87 right?

Fuel pump supply relay is relay 14 and fuel pump relay is 10.1 In position 30 87 is should get 12vni suppose

Also, is there any other point in the engine bay where the ignition status of the engine can be tapped. The rat repellent system had a circuit which cut of power to the unit when the engine was on and would power up when ignition was off. I am hoping that could be a fault point?

Got that. Will check voltage on the busbar with ground connected to see if these are getting power. If yes, then will move onto the next one to check for voltage when switched on.

You are right. With the relay out of the socket I measured bottom to top considering these to be the supply terminals. Should have checked the 30 87 for 12v supply. Sorry about this.

Btw, with ignition on, which fuses should show voltage readings and how much? Presently I get nothing on fuse 30. Should I check and take readings on the rear of the fuse? I have the whole thing opened up and have access to the rear of the fuse box.

Yes there is rust. I had cleaned these earlier but will do it again and also put in copper paste to prevent further rusting. Yes the instrument cluster lights up, the sound system works, the display lights come one. I also think that there is a partial loss of power somewhere, either chewed up wire or I don't know.

That I can do. I can take a lead from this to fuse and check for continuity. Will look up ignition switch opening diagrams on Google. In the fuse box I do see these 2 red wires terminating.

Sure. You mean I wire from here all the way to ignition switch? Also, do share dismantle steps to reach ignition switch. Also, my lock is in trouble and it does not unlock with key but with key fob and does not unlock with keyfob but with key. Hope thus has no repercussions on the current scenario.

And also where is the ignition coil innthe engine bay. A rat repellent system was wired to the ignition coil and then taken off. I need to trace that and clean up.

Great. Can you please help me with location of ignition switch and which fuee to tap to ignition. Thanks