Sco22y

I went our to the car this morning with the intention of trying to take as much of the Akf assembly off. I managed two of the clips but I struggled with three others (in photos)-two hoses and one electrical clip (photo with arrow pointing to clip). So just leaving it to the mechanic. I can't order the part yet as the mechanic that is visiting my home, does not fit any part supplied by clients-so he will have to order. I was also under the driver's rear wheel and seen what I appear to be the charcoal cannister. This seems pretty straightforward to change over as well but I might as well get the mechanic to do this if he's doing the other things as well. I've not been able to source a charcoal cannister but going by what others have paid online, it should be about £90. When I add that, the Akf assembly and about £40-£60 for spark plugs-parts should come to a total of £250-£270. With labour, surely £400 all I would cover it. Maybe an extra £20 if I also add a new fuel cap. My mind goes into problem- solving overdrive when work needs done to my car. Hats off to all the mechanics and car enthusiasts out there-as its hard to switch off from it. 😁

Although, looking at the the Akf valve and the connecting tubes, it looks like just three tubes to connect. Maybe if I take enough photos beforehand I could just swap like for like. Then take the back wheel off and change the charcoal cannister after taking off the trim, the bolt and two clips. Ahh, I can't make up my mind, there's a part of me that wants it done as soon as possible rather than wait until next Thursday for the mechanic to look at it. I reckon if I were to change both these parts, that would probably solbe my problem.

I've made contact with a mechanic who is going to look at my car next week. After everyone's advice, I will probably get the akf valve with connecting tubes and the charcoal cannister changed- as I read this is suggested. I think I might also get a new petrol cap to cover every possiblity. Also mentioned to him that I would also appreciate it if he also changed the spark plugs. I thought that perhaps this was something I could do myself but I'm afraid, I'll just take the hit and let a professional do the job. Hopefully after this has been sorted my car will run as it should.

Wow, that's quite a difference from the £20 parts I've seen for other purge valves on other models. Taking this into consideration, I think it's unwise of me to try and change this myself. If I get a mechanic to change this over, I could get them to change the spark plugs at the same time-I should have done this when I done the other service jobs but this seemed more difficult. Thanks for taking the time to research mate.

Thank you, much appreciated. Vin number: TMBFP6NJ7MZ045173

I took these photos of the part you are referring to, as I thought it could be it. I will check more thoroughly when I've got time to go to the car. I dint think the one I've got is that great. I suppose it could be this as well.

I don't suppose anyone knows if this is the purge valve?

Having real dramas finding it. I've Googled what it looks like but still can't see it. Looked on YouTube but can't see any related to purge valves and mk3 fabias. The search continues tomorrow when I have a day off from work. 😁

Thanks, will give this a try. Hopefully when I finish work.

Yeah, this could be the problem.

As I mentioned. It could just be coincidental. However, as I done the service just before the EML first came on, it's making me wonder.

Hopefully not. Although I damaged the head of one of the torque screws, I didn't think I tightened it up that much to break the housing. I will have a closer look when I manage to take it off again.

As some of you may recall, I made a post earlier in the year about self-servicing my Fabia for the first time. When I completed the oil and filter change, pollen filter and air filter change-I thought all went well. It all seemed OK, however within the week, my engine management light came on. Luckily I had an reader which threw up the P0441 code (incorrect purge flow in the evaporative emission). I checked the fuel cap and cleared the light. I read it could be fuel in the charcoal cannister after being overfilled and if it is this, it can go away over time. Over the coming weeks it came back every now and then (after approx 10 days driving) and I just kept clearing it each time. When doing some reading, I read that when a air filter change has happened, if the seal isn't as it should be, this can throw up codes like the one I have. When I reflect on the air filter change, one of the screws heads was damaged, as I over-tightened, and I was u sure if I properly sealed the hose closest to the windscreen, using the spring jubilee clip. Something makes me feel I should take the air filter off and try again. Firstly, trying to take the damaged screw out and put in a replacement and then making sure that I fully reseal when placing the air filter back on. It might just be a coincidence that this code has happened after my self-service-it might not! I could have accidentally knocked, clipped, nipped, damaged or not put something (hoses, plugs etc.) where it belongs. Should the code appear after I try this, I will then look at replacing purge valves, and charcoal cannisters ect. The car drives OK and I can't smell fuel. If anything, it i might a little sluggish and I'm now just used to it. when I accelerate into the 3000 rev territory, this tends to be when the code throws up. If I drive conservatively, the engine management light tends to stay off. Has anyone else had any dramas regarding this particular code with the 1.0 tsi mk3 Fabias?

Thank you to everyone who has replied and given me advice. I just went out there and changed the air filter. The only drama I had was I over tightened the screw in line with the air pipe and damaged the screw head, so the next time I go to undo this I will have to do some problem solving. After everything Was back in place, including those pesky clips, I then took the car for 5 minute drive. After I had parked back up on the flat, I waited five minutes before checking the oil. Once again I was baffled. When I inspected the dipstick, one side was just under maximum but the other side was a good couple of mm above my red line (on the photo above). The same happened the 2nd and 3rd time I checked. Surely if there was a pool of oil at the base of the dipstick, the oil would surround both sides of the dipstick when I push it down-seems not in my case. I think I will just order the syringe and take about 400ml when it comes tomorrow, just to be on the safe side.

Well yesterday I managed to change the oil with the help of my wife as my assistant. I found it went up the ramps quite easily and did not hit the bottom of the bumper. I've got to say it seemed to be relatively OK. However, I found it difficult to read the dipstick with accuracy. I have seen the diagrams that are readily available online for this model but it was so challenging to make out a definitive line-mark. After leaving it overnight, I must have checked it about 10 times this morning as there were often several oil lines in various places. I have came to the conclusion, I think I may have slightly overfilled (4.1-2 litres). I attached a photo with a red line, where I believe the oil mark is (but still not certain as its so hard to see the new oil). I'm contemplating getting an oil syringe rather than going back under the motor and taking off the protector and releasing some oil out the sump. This will probably be delivered tomorrow, and I'm not really needing the car today anyway. Does this sound sensible or am I overreacting. I also changed the pollen filter and realised it had been in the wrong way. The one I took out was facing the passenger window and the videos I watched stated the arrows should be pointing towards the middle unit. The rain started to come on so I have left the air filter for a time when it won't be wet. When I was under the car I noticed that the exhaust was starting to rust so I will do some research on how to deal with this and prevent it from happening further. It's actually quite addictive, this car maintenance malarkey, when you get started. 😂

Thanks for the info and advice. Having watched so many videos I'd say the thing that I'm most apprehensive about is driving the car up the ramps I bought. They are the halfords 2 ton orange ones and there doesn't seem to be much space between the ramp and the bottom of the bumper when put in place. I've got some planks of wood I could probably add to give the car a wee lift up. I'm aware you can get extenders but I'm sure the wood underneath will be fine. And there's also the chance of me over-shooting it over the ramps. I can just picture it, and my wife's face as she watches on after helping me position them in place. 😂

Thanks for the suggestions and info. I'm quite impatient when I want things done so just before you replied I went on eurocarparts and bought an Audura oil and air filter and a Bosch pollen filter. I then bought the Quartz 0w-20 long life from Amazon. All arriving tomorrow in preparation for me completing the jobs on Friday. Perhaps next time I'll go with your suggestions. Thanks again!

It turns out the cable snapped on the window regulator. Managed to get it replaced for just under £200. I think the part was about £50 and the rest labour and vat. I was advised to use the windows more often due to the low milage on the car-16000 for 4 year old in July.

Hi all, I have a Fabia 1.0 tsi 95 hp 2021 (mk3) and I'm wanting to try and service it myself. I have done some research and it seems to be the 0w-20 that is suggested so I think I'm going to go with the Quartz long life (unless there are better recommendations). The real drama I'm finding is comiting to an oil filter as there seems to be a few options. I would be grateful if anyone could direct me towards one they might suggest. I have went and got most of the tools and ramps etc. and watched plenty of videos, to try and make this happen. Next I'll tackle the pollen and air filters. I'm usually quite handy with home DIY but normally leave the servicing to the experts but for some crazy reason, I thought I'd give the car servicing a go. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Of I has to hazard a guess, I'd say the window stayed where it was for some reason and the mechanism went down and is probably now not clamped onto the window. Here's hoping it isn't too much of a drama when I put it into the garage.

Thanks for the reply Alisdair. I'm really hoping it cN be sorted by my local independent garage tomorrow however, I'm not sure it is something that can be sorted in a day. I've got a feeling that when it happened initially,I heard the sound of glass crack (or scrape), so I think I might need a new window also. I won't know until they take the door off I suppose.

A few weeks ago, I went to use my driver electric window and when I pressed the button the electrics kicked in as normal, however, as I expected the window to go down I heard a noise, and it never moved. I tried again and the motor seemed to be working but the window would not go down. When I got out the car the window could move slightly up ans down when I put pressure on it using g my hands. I then pressed the window fully up and it seemed to secure it in place and it would no longer move. The motor still seems to work so I'm thinking it is no longer attached to the lever it should be. Has this happened to anyone else? I have it booked into my local independent garage tomorrow for them to have a look as they are very busy but I'm unsure if this is probably one for the main dealer. All help is much appreciated.