MW206

I realise I'm late to the party on this, but I have been able to get it to timer charge by using a mechanical timer (it didn't like an electronic one that I could remotely activate) **Note it only works if the timer is OFF when you first plug it in and only works ONCE. that is, if its been charging for any time at all and the timer switches off, once the timer switches back on it doesn't start charging again

So, I put a multimeter across the pins in the USB with car "On" but no engine running, and car On WITH engine running - 5.29 Volts both times so it doesn't drop with motor running. Also bought a second Hardwire kit, used its fuse link to plug into Fuse 47 (so no usage of old parts), grounded it, but kept it all outside the glovebox in case there was something in the fusebox or nearby that was interfering- Results the same - camera turns on, Wifi is detectable IF MOTOR NOT RUNNING, not detectable if motor running (I use this language because the dashcam has a button on it to turn wifi on and off, as well a voice command, so the dashcam is saying that "Wifi on" and Wifi off". Oh, and for completeness - SOMETIMES, the phone does detect the Wifi when the engine is running, so I'm guessing it is always there, just "jammed"?? Also tried a different phone same result. I'm moving on from this as the cameras work, and if I need to retrieve something I just have to make sure the motor isn't running. (the fact that it does connect if I use a battery pack... I will bury deep in my brain so that I don't twitch) I will be putting a dashcam WITH screen in the wife's Octavia using the extra Hardwire kit so she doesn't have to faff around. (Probably a more expensive one too, realising that may be the problem ) If this saves someone some skinned knuckles or broken trim attachments pulling things in and out then happy days.

Not sure about the pin layout. Was unaware that differences existed! I'll pull it out in the morning and have a look. The restricted voltage idea kind of fits, but why only when engine running? And also would expect the dashcam to just quit , don't think it's expensive enough to prioritise systems (all power to the shields Scotty) I was wondering whether there was something that was known to interfere with wifi when engine is on?

Hi All - I have gratefully followed the posts by BAP33 which showed me how to remove the A-pillar trim panel and several posts by JR RS and others about using fuse spot 47 for the hardwire kit. I tested it all before putting it all back together and everything was fine, but as per title the wifi seems to disappear when the car is actually running. I thought perhaps the USB C wire was faulty, but I connected it to a phone battery pack, and the wifi signal returns. (BTW, the dashcam continues to work just not its wifi) The Hardwire kit is the Gator GHWCUSB2 which gives you a USB port to plug any USB C cable into, and both front and rear dashcams are Kawa Mini 3. (Oh I also swapped the front for the rear, and both cameras wifi works on the rear plug.) I'm hoping its just a bad hardwire kit - would happily pay for a better one, but most seem to have the USB C plumbed in rather than having a port. (Managed to do the A-pillar quite neatly, so loathe to do it again unless I really have to) Apologies if this has been answered somewhere - would be grateful for any hint