harrysprout
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Posts posted by harrysprout
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1 hour ago, varooom said:
There is a list of forum members with VCDS, I might be close to you and willing to try and assist.
Thank you. I'm in Harrogate
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4 hours ago, TheClient said:
I've had 3 x dq250s. 2 I have had until 70k. The third I still have and is 72k rising.
I don't think problems are the norm with this box. They're very proven in a lot of vehicles and can do a lot more than 60k. They've been around for what 18 years and with only software changes really being upgraded along the way.
Yes, they are complicated in terms of the mechatronic set up. Yes, mechatronics can fail. But for the numbers out there it doesn't seem a huge vulnerability.
Clutch packs should do double 80k miles - if not abused.
Back to your fault, the shunt. A slight delay taking up drive in 1st or R. I'd say - do a gearbox clutch adaption. Is that what you mean by reset?
On top of that, it took me until the 2nd dsg to get my driving style right starting on inclines. What works better is say hand brake applied when car parked up, foot off brake, allow a second or so for the clutches to take up drive, release hand brake, accelerate. If you go straight from foot on brake the clutches are disengaged and applying power before they are engaged could be slip or free spin before they clamp. Give it a try.
Just had a look regarding gearbox, clutch adaption. Garage job for me. I don't have the kit. Or find someone with VCDS?
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3 hours ago, TheClient said:
I've had 3 x dq250s. 2 I have had until 70k. The third I still have and is 72k rising.
I don't think problems are the norm with this box. They're very proven in a lot of vehicles and can do a lot more than 60k. They've been around for what 18 years and with only software changes really being upgraded along the way.
Yes, they are complicated in terms of the mechatronic set up. Yes, mechatronics can fail. But for the numbers out there it doesn't seem a huge vulnerability.
Clutch packs should do double 80k miles - if not abused.
Back to your fault, the shunt. A slight delay taking up drive in 1st or R. I'd say - do a gearbox clutch adaption. Is that what you mean by reset?
On top of that, it took me until the 2nd dsg to get my driving style right starting on inclines. What works better is say hand brake applied when car parked up, foot off brake, allow a second or so for the clutches to take up drive, release hand brake, accelerate. If you go straight from foot on brake the clutches are disengaged and applying power before they are engaged could be slip or free spin before they clamp. Give it a try.
Thanks👍l turned ignition on and depressed accelerator pedal for 20 seconds. What is gearbox clutch adaption?
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59 minutes ago, toot said:
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Petrol or Diesel?
No matter really it should not behave like that. The miles have not rolled on. 60,000 miles is nothing.
Was the last DSG Service @ 40,000 miles. Was that done at a Main Dealership?
Try another Automatic Specialist, or maybe someone with a car like yours can try yours ot you theirs.
As posted Petrol. Box serviced at 40k. Not a main dealer. The miles have rolled on from 50 to 60. I know it's nothing. I rang another specialist and they say they are problematic. In fact on researching, they seem to be a bit of a nightmare.
I re set it though and seems to have resolved it. But that was only after a short drive, so the gremlins might return
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Years since I have been here. Appreciate some help if possible. About 2 years ago my 14 plate VRS petrol started to develop a shunt or a delay on engaging first or reverse from start. This is only occasional and seems worse in reverse, particularly when reversing from a standstill, up hill or over a slight bump. Just after lockdown I took it to Huddersfield Transmissions, DSG Specialist. I was expecting the worst outcome, but the guy there told me it was fine, and they tend to behave like this after the miles roll by. The clutches were all OK and I think he might have re set it. My local garage also said they pretty much behave in this way, the older they get.
I am 10K further down the line at 60K, the problem seems to be maybe only very slightly worse, maybe not at all, in gear shifts are as smooth as ever. I kind of thought I would ignore it and buy a new one in time. No chance now, I just don't have the money. I still live in fear of a stupid bill for a new Mechatronic unit looming or worse clutch pack as well! I want to keep the car and run it til 100k if possible, it is in fantastic condition apart from knackered leaky alloys
I wondered if anyone else has had similar problems? Would a gearbox re map fix this ?? Feedback welcomed.
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On 2017-6-13 at 23:59, ChrisHooligan said:
Have the same model but not come accross this. Is it under warranty?
Just run out. I think I might get a screwdriver to it. Or maybe a hammer.
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Any quick fixes for this? I have a vRS estate and the thing has gone baggy on one side due to not tensioning properly when I close it and engage into the slots.
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Amazed at why this question is asked over and over again. It's not a1954 Wolseley for Christs sake!!
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I thought the MFGV (Minimum Future Guaranteed Value) and the final balloon payment of a PCP were the same thing?
There is only one final amount in the paperwork? Pay the MFGV / balloon and own the car or take the difference between the MFGV and the the cars actual value and use the equity as a deposit on another car.
The MFGV is deliberately set low at the beginning of the PCP, this way there is more likely to be equity in the car which will make it more likely for people to use that as a deposit and roll it into another PCP.
In other words the dealer knows the car should be worth more at the end of the deal. Are you suggesting the dealer should be willing to sell you the car at less than the MFGV?
My fault here. What I was trying say, admittedly really badly is that IF the car is worth more than the MFGV. Which in my case is £8865 at the end of a 42 month 0% pcp, I will be paying just that and not a higher figure over and above 8865 which in effect would be equity towards a new pcp. But we all know that he @rse has fallen out of residuals for the Octy :-(
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Depreciation arguments aside...... my idea of the MFGV is that is the amount left on the finance. So if you hand the car back, then that is the debt that needs to be cleared.
That is very different to what the car is worth at the end of the term - whether it be positive or negative equity.
The MFVG and the balance remaining ( balloon ) are not the same thing. Mine is on a small deposit 0% pcp and I will be keeping mine by paying it off at the end of the PCP. I banked the final payment from the proceeds of a private sale of my old car. I'm done with the treadmill, paying for cars for a while, so come next spring I will give the dealer the balance. MFVG is the amout the dealers give you IF you want a new car on a PCP. Not sure if you can transfer to PCH, see no reason why not. If they want the MFVG from me, they can have the bloody car back!
I intend to get the 'new car' feel back by spending a few hundred on suspension and wider track mods. I shall then run it till it falls apart.
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I am a designer
So am I, and I think looks great.
As for the crap youre talking about turning on full lock, there are many options to get your car that low and still be easily drivable.. Static or Air
All depends on how much you want to spend.
I'm happy to leave it at the spacers and H&R springs I bought from another member these days, but, the actual height to the press shots is very misleading...
Thanks for your input. I have taken it on board and given it a massive dose of healthy disregard.
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I see this, but it don't bother me. Show me a lowered car where this is not evident, fuss pot! ;-)
Matter of taste I suppose, I am a designer, I like things to look right. Form and function and all that. This is neither form nor function, it's almost laughable. What must it be like on full lock listening to the growling of the tyres against the wheel arch linings? Sweet! What must it be like sitting in it driving over a pothole and smashing a rim? Nice! Not nice.
Sorry
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Not against lowering at all. Standard the vRS looks like it's on stilts. But this!! Just looks so wrong, The wheel arch gap is wider at the bottom at the sills. The wheels don't follow the arch radius. From a design standpoint, a bloody carbuncle. Why can't people see this?
Baffles me tbh.
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Well I ain't finished yet. I just got so used to mine doing the impression of a Morphy Richards steam iron, I forgot about it. So I went to the running club tonight and thought I'd tear the ass off it and watch the vapour. Guess what? Nothing, nada, zilch. I'm quite disappointed tbh
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Mmmm that's interesting mine does it as bad as this .......
Yes mine does it about the same, but under hard acceleration in damp humid air. I think the atmospheric conditions can make it look really scary.
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As a postscript to this issue, I have had both MKI MK II petrol vRS's, one a TFSI and the latter a TSI. Neither spewed out steam like this one.
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Does yours do it all the time mate ?
Yep! Always done it. Had it two years now, not missed a beat. When a first saw it I carked mesen, looked like something seriously wrong. I'm sure there is a thread on here somewhere. It is normal by all accounts. Few on here with TSI's have noticed it.
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I have a TSI, it does the same under throttle, ton of water vapour spews out. Looks like the fookin' Flying Scotsman when I look through the rear view mirror. Perfectly normal though, I would be a lot more worried if it was blue smoke.
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Don't know as I don't have Amundsen. What version are you on now?
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Have to have a look.
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If you are feeling brave you can update the firmware on the Amundsen yourself
What is the gain? is it worth it??
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All mp 3's on my card are 320. Anything lossless is frankly pointless, unless you are sitting in a Maybach or a Rolls Royce. Some stuff on my phone is uncompressed and it's still very average in the sound department. I have to have to sub on 10 to get any fullness and warmth to the sound. I had the misfortune of sitting in the back of it the other day whilst the Canton was on and it was a really unpleasant audio experience. Just a dull muddy plodding thump with no attack or control, overwhelming any other frequencies. Dreadful :-( Now I know why my kids are always complaining about earache. Shifting the sound focus cures it a little I suppose. But it's still nowhere near as good as the standard set up on the MK II, which despite it's limitations had at least a semblance of a cohesive balanced soundstage.
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Evenin',
My 14 plate Petrol vRS is in for it's second service at just over 15K. Can I expect 'owt in the way of firmware upgrades or new maps on the Amundsen/Canton set up? Will this firmware improve the sound, as I find Canton a bit of a let down tbh. Will I have to pay for the firmware upgrade? I know the maps should be free, but will the dealership do it? Really can't be arsed upgrading the maps after I did it last time, complete pain.
I have also noticed that the drivers seat seems to shift laterally, ever so slightly when cornering, like the seat chassis is moving in the rails. Anybody encountered this??
Cheers All.
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Skoda majorly getting the specs of what they offer wrong.
Octavia 3 has the fuel tank ie 50 litres (and therefore range) of a small family car.
Superb has a decent sized fuel tank but no 1.8 TSI in the range.
Six speed DQ250 is a 12 year old piece of technology that harms CO2 rather than improves it like it should and like it does in BMWs, Jaags and other competitors cars with gearboxes like the better VAG ones and the ZF boxes.
Skoda (VAG) need a darn good speaking to IMO.
Absolutely NOTHING wrong with my six speed DSG on my petrol vRS. Never understand why people bang on endlessly about it's 'supposed' shortcomings. It changes quickly and seamlessly, that's all I want it to do and that's all it does, twelve years old or not.
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Mine does it too exactly the same whine
Wiring harness coil conduit
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
Posted
Took my car in for a service, new front brake discs and the garage did not do the plug change. They said the leads had melted onto the coils, so to save me money they did not change plugs. This could be done when they do the dsg oil change in the spring which will be at about 75k. The mechanic said l would need new coils as well because they were a pig to separate.
I had a quick google and seems this is a problem. His description was somewhat inaccurate. The connectors do not melt, but become brittle and break. Seems you can tease them out and save them, or simply buy new d connectors, so not so sure why he said need new coils.
Anyway, l had a look and found one of the connectors slightly broken on the cover, but still securely connected. All four seemed to be ok, but the odd thing is that the conduit harness carrying the wires between the coils was absent! Has he bust this and binned it, or do some not have them?
So, the car is a 2014 vRS 2.0. Can anyone point me in the direction of decent plugs and maybe new coils, should l swap them out any way? The car is running fine, on 71k, no misfires etc.
Thanks