OmerGarabagi

Hi all, the orange oil level light on my 1.2 tsi octavia turned on a few days ago, checked the oil level and it was at the low mark so I filled it up but the warning light wont turn off. Since then I drove the car more than 50 km , checked the oil level every day and it was still full but the oil level light still wont turn off. I have read on a few forums that the warning light will go off if the car has enough oil AND that the hood latch sensor was reading that the hood was opened for more than 30 seconds (or something like that), and if one of the sensors goes out then the light wont go off. Since the oil level light turned on when the oil level was low Im guessing the oil level sensor works so Im left with the hood latch sensor, but I didnt find any real solution on these forums (a workaround or something). Does someone figured out how to override this issue and make the oil level light turn off?

So I did a homemade vacuum leak test, used a vape instead of a smoke machine (removed 2 years from my lungs) and I found that there is a quite big leak from a hose connector going to the brake booster (lower red circle in my first image) that I tried to tape but I probably didnt do a good job. So I need to replace that hose and maybe (I hope) it was the cause of these issues I was having.

So I cleaned the camshaft sensor with electronic cleaner spray, I also replaced the ignition coil pack, and nothing has changed. Maybe I need to check for vacuum leaks in the air intake, the old plugs were probably telling the truth.

Yes, I changed the plugs and wires to try and solve this. I will take a look at the camshaft sensor, clean it and see if it makes a difference. The less money I spend the better 😅. Thanks.

Well it didnt seem to make a difference. Thinking on replacing the ignition coil because the engine hesitation feels like a random misfire on load. It just doesnt explain why my old spark plugs look like they were running lean.

I love that car, so simple and easy to service and very fun to drive, like a big go kart. I bought it a few years ago from an old lady that bought it brand new, Too bad the rust is slowly taking over.

It is usually felt in 6th gear when accelerating at 2000+- rpm at the highway entrance on my daily commute to work so tomorrow I will give an update. I also have a 1993 Skoda Favorit (carbureted) and its rubber vacuum lines are so easy to deal with, I hate new stuff 😒.

Hi all, my 1.2 tsi isnt running the best, in higher gears and higher rpm the engine hesitates a bit and the idle feels like it could be a bit better, there is no check engine light or something. It has new spark plugs, new spark plugs wires, new air filter and new throttle body (when replacing the spark plugs it looked like they were running a little lean) Before I replace the coil pack I decided to check for vacuum leaks and I saw this line super cracked and more lines going to the brake booster to be cracked also. Can I replace them with rubber lines? these ones are rock hard.

Update: After a long hour that broke my back I managed to remove the rubber boots that got stuck on plugs 1 and 2, then I removed and inspect them and they seem ok (I have seen worse, I was so stressed that I didnt buy new ones because I just wanted to fix the mess I made). Then I bought new spark wires that cost about 75$. After replacing the 1 and 2 spark wires the car ran great and after a short drive I think it even fixed the original problem I had with it.

Something went bad, I tried today to replace the spark plugs but my socket (16mm) would not fit because the plugs have a rubber boot on them (maybe from the spark leads?) this is how the 1 and 2 spark leads look like (1 on the left, 2 on the right): So I connected them back because i couldnt remove the spark plugs but then a random misfire started (Im almost sure from cylinder 1 because I put my ear near the engine and everytime a misfire happened there was a click (probably a short?) coming from the 1st spark plug. I went for a small drive and if I put some load on the gas pedal the car shakes and cant output power at all, I need to give it a gentle gas to drive smoothly. I tried to connect and disconnect the number 1 spark lead several times and still no difference. The only thing I did to the engine is to disconnect and connect 1 and 2 spark leads, can it be that the number 1 lead is failing?

Yes they have the armour around them, they are even ziptied so I guess they have been previously replaced. I still havent checked the sparkplugs so it will be a task for the weekend.

Hi all, I recently bought a 2012 octavia with the 1.2 tsi 105 hp engine, it has 235000km but drives good. The only issue I have is that when I give it some heavy gas when the rpm is 1500-2000 it feels like the engine hesitates a bit and has small inconsistency in power delivery (more noticeable on higher gears acceleration), also I can feel the car shake a tiny bit when it idles. My mom has a 2013 octavia with the same powertrain and much less miles so Im familiar with how the car should feel. I have read that the ignition coil or the ignition leads (typically cylinders 3 and 4) could fail, how can I test them to be sure that they cause the issue and not just throw money on new parts that maybe didnt need to be replaced? Im good with carbureted engines (as my profile picture would suggest) but not so much with new cars. Thanks in advance.

They are not just hanging under the dash, its a picture I took right after I installed the switch and before I did any cable management to the engine bay so the cables were not attached to anything and were just sitting in the footwell What is BTB?

Now that I have installed this button that goes parallel to the switch I can truly check if its the sensor or the wires because the button is connected to the wires going to the thermoswitch (these are not speaker wires they are thicker) Also my electrical work isnt the best but it is safe, I also used A heavy duty 12v switch from old military jeeps) I still have the old sensor, maybe I will try to replace it back (even though it was also problematic)

I replaced the thermoswitch a few months ago, and sometimes it works and sometimes doesnt (maybe I bought a faulty one from ebay). I even bought a laser thermometer and tested it when the temp guage was in the middle (yellow line in the first message in the post) and at the temp sensor it was about 105-109c and at the thermoswitch it was about 88-90c which i think proves even the new one is faulty. Eventually I installed a manual switch for the fan inside the cabin (the yellow thing) which is a perfect fit instead of the plug where the cigarette lighter should be that the original owner didnt spec

Thank you for replying. I drove this car almost 10000km and most of the time in normal driving (highway and city) the needle would stay at the green line and the fan would turn on just above it so I consider it as normal operating temperature. Maybe I should try testing the temp sensor with boiling water to see how accurate it is and where is the needle pointing at a specific water temperature. I did flush the radiator but not the heater core, the water that came out of the engine and radiator did look quite good so I guess the heater core is fine. After installing the new thermoswitch I tested it at home by letting the car run (when parked, didnt drove it) and seeing when the fan will kick on, and it did between the green and yellow line as it should, but maybe because the car was stationary and the radiator wasnt being cooled by moving air the temp gauge and the thermoswitch were reading the same temperature (because the hot coolant wasnt being cooled in the radiator). I drove it a few hours later and when I got off the highway the temp gauge showed that the temperature was rising (as expected, to the yellow line) and the fan didnt start working even until a arrived to my destination a few minutes later, I suspect its because the radiator was still "cold" after the highway driving and was still cooling the coolent inside it, so coolent temperature at the thermoswitch was colder than temp at the temp gauge and thats why the fan stayed off. Maybe I should let the temperature to go even higher above the yellow line to see if the fan starts working because every time I would shorten the 2 wires of the thermoswitch because I didnt want the engine to overheat. So basically I need to test the temp gauge and let the coolent to got hotter to see if the fan turns on at high temperatures.

NOTE: This could all be because Im misreading the temperature gauge because it doesnt have real temperature numbers. Hi all, for a while i was having issues with the radiator fan not working correctly, sometimes it turns on properly when needed and sometimes doesnt at all even when the temperature rises up. When it doesnt work I shorten the 2 wires that connect to the thermoswitch and the fan starts working so the fan is ok. I replaced the thermoswitch (82c), flushed the engine, replaced the thermostat and added new coolant but still have the same issue. The thermostat opens below the green line and the fan usually turns on just above the green line but when it doesnt the temperature goes up to the yellow line and even higher (I live in the middle east with hot climates). On highway speeds the temperature is steady on the green line and most of the time when I get off the highway the fan doesnt turn on and the temperature reaches the yellow line and even higher before I shorten the thermoswitch wires. Now, can it be because of the different locations of the temp gauge and the thermoswitch? The temp gauge is located right after the hot coolent leaves the engine at their hottest temp, and the thermoswitch is located at the bottom of the radiator where the coolant is at its lowest temp. So maybe the thermoswitch is working properly and the temp gauge shows very different temperature than the thermoswitch? Again, this could all be because Im misreading the temp gauge and the yellow line is a safe operating temperature, but because I own this car for a couple of years and Im used to the temp being on the green line in normal driving (city and highway) Im a little bit concerned.

I cold started the car, it ran for 2 minutes and then died (as usual), I opened up the carb and this was the amount of fuel in the bowl (marked by the red line). Correct me if I'm wrong but this isn't enough fuel to run, right? I already replaced the float and needle so the fuel pump is my next priority, maybe its not working properly when the engine is cold, @nta16 the electric one I have ordered should arrive in the next couple of days. The weird thing is that I can see fuel being pulled from the gas tank through the clear plastic filter that is placed before the fuel pump, maybe its not pumping good enough when cold (I hope).

Another update. I replaced the float, needle and pin that holds them and it didnt help. After a cold start the car ran for 2 minutes and then stalled. My next step is to try a cold start again, let it stall then open up the top of the carb and see if there is fuel in the carburetor's bowl, if not then I will try replacing the fuel pump, maybe its acting up when cold. if there is fuel in the bowl then god help me because I replaced everything (except the fuel pump). Hopefully I will update you guys soon.

I think I was lucky that one time, tried the same thing for a couple of days, the car did stall after all of them, but getting it back running was less of a fight than before. I need to take a look at the float of this carb and see what is going on with it.

### UPDATE ### @R_Blue's float needle theory did make sense to me and I wasn't very satisfied from the result of the test with the vice grip. So I took a small hammer and gave the top area of the carb above the float needle (green circle) a few hits so if the needle was stuck due to temperature maybe the hits will free it. Got to the car after sitting all night, removed the air cleaner, gave the green circle a few hits, went inside to start the car, and the car didnt stall! I was so sceptic but it worked, but before I do anything I will try tomorrow morning to start without trying to free the float needle and see what happens, and the day after that I will try to free the float needle and see if it doesnt stall again. I will update you guys soon.

I have an inline filter before the pump, its about 1 year old and clean, I also cleaned the filter inside the carb when I replaced it (the filter in the old carb was clean too). I need to check on the pickup pipe inside the tank but it seems odd that it will be an issue only when the engine is cold because its on the other side of the car and not affected by it. I think I have a small electric fuel pump laying around in my garage, I can try bypassing the mechanical fuel pump with the electric one and see if it makes a difference. Oh and I replaced the coil a few days ago. by the way, I just noticed that both of the choke pulldown units on my 2 carbs are cracked in the same place, I did check if the pulldown unit on the carb holds air by breathing in to it and it does so maybe its good and just the plastic case is bad, and because this issue still happens even when I removed the choke completely maybe the pulldown unit doesnt contribute to this. The picture if from my other carb that’s not on the engine.

Maybe it will help if I elaborate on how it happens in different sceneries. If I start the car and immediately start driving (very bad, only for test purposes), it will drive for a minute but then immediately (with no stuttering) the engine stops responding to any input and if I shift into neutral it just dies (the car moving in gear keeps the engine spinning). When I park on a hill (facing downwards, thank god for my house being on a hill) and try to cold start the car and it stalls as usual after a minute I simply roll it down the hill in neutral and I put it in 1st gear and it starts but responds intermediately for a few seconds (gain and lose power on and off for a few seconds) but then its ok and doesn't stall anymore, maybe because nothing is stopping the engine (the car rolls down a hill in gear) the problem resolves a lot quicker (in a matter of seconds). I cant relax until I find what's causing problem, I've been dealing with this for a few months and it drives me crazy 😂.

So I tried it, held the fuel line going to the carb with a vice grip, started the car, it ran for a minute and then stalled, went to check if there is no fuel in the carb (to check if it stalled from lack or fuel or because of the mystery problem) and when I pulled the accelerator pump it was still spraying fuel in to the carb so I think it stalled before running out of fuel. After that I tried starting it again for a couple of minutes without the vice grip (usual morning routine😒), it sometimes started and idled for a few seconds and then stalled, but if I gave it some gas exactly when it tries to stall I did manage to keep it running but a few second later it stalled as usual even when I still gave it some gas , after a few minutes of fighting it did eventually agreed to not stall and run normally. About the fuel return line, I did check it about a month ago by spraying compressed air in to the return line from the engine and it was free, went to the gas tank with no problem. So frustrating...

You are right, both the old and the new carbs are Jikov 28-30 LEKR, I thought they were pierburg because they look almost identical and I didn’t give much thought to the stamps (IKOV) on it. Havent tried the simple test you mentioned yet, but when I cleaned the junk yard carb before installing it I did check the float operation, I exhaled in to the fuel supply to the carb and played with the float simultaneously, it did work properly. Because both of the carbs have the identical stalling issue I now tried to take a look on the old carb’s float needle to see if there is anything wrong with it but it works good too (didnt remove it completely because I could not remove the float pin that holds them in place because the good tools are at my dad’s house), maybe testing with air isn’t good enough for checking if it will work with fuel pressure? It just seems so weird to me that both of the carbs fail the same way and under the same conditions 🧐. I will soon do the test you mentioned and will give you an update after that, and again thank you 🙏.