OmerGarabagi

Maybe it will help if I elaborate on how it happens in different sceneries. If I start the car and immediately start driving (very bad, only for test purposes), it will drive for a minute but then immediately (with no stuttering) the engine stops responding to any input and if I shift into neutral it just dies (the car moving in gear keeps the engine spinning). When I park on a hill (facing downwards, thank god for my house being on a hill) and try to cold start the car and it stalls as usual after a minute I simply roll it down the hill in neutral and I put it in 1st gear and it starts but responds intermediately for a few seconds (gain and lose power on and off for a few seconds) but then its ok and doesn't stall anymore, maybe because nothing is stopping the engine (the car rolls down a hill in gear) the problem resolves a lot quicker (in a matter of seconds). I cant relax until I find what's causing problem, I've been dealing with this for a few months and it drives me crazy 😂.

So I tried it, held the fuel line going to the carb with a vice grip, started the car, it ran for a minute and then stalled, went to check if there is no fuel in the carb (to check if it stalled from lack or fuel or because of the mystery problem) and when I pulled the accelerator pump it was still spraying fuel in to the carb so I think it stalled before running out of fuel. After that I tried starting it again for a couple of minutes without the vice grip (usual morning routine😒), it sometimes started and idled for a few seconds and then stalled, but if I gave it some gas exactly when it tries to stall I did manage to keep it running but a few second later it stalled as usual even when I still gave it some gas , after a few minutes of fighting it did eventually agreed to not stall and run normally. About the fuel return line, I did check it about a month ago by spraying compressed air in to the return line from the engine and it was free, went to the gas tank with no problem. So frustrating...

You are right, both the old and the new carbs are Jikov 28-30 LEKR, I thought they were pierburg because they look almost identical and I didn’t give much thought to the stamps (IKOV) on it. Havent tried the simple test you mentioned yet, but when I cleaned the junk yard carb before installing it I did check the float operation, I exhaled in to the fuel supply to the carb and played with the float simultaneously, it did work properly. Because both of the carbs have the identical stalling issue I now tried to take a look on the old carb’s float needle to see if there is anything wrong with it but it works good too (didnt remove it completely because I could not remove the float pin that holds them in place because the good tools are at my dad’s house), maybe testing with air isn’t good enough for checking if it will work with fuel pressure? It just seems so weird to me that both of the carbs fail the same way and under the same conditions 🧐. I will soon do the test you mentioned and will give you an update after that, and again thank you 🙏.

I still have the old carb, its also a pierburg 2e3 and it’s the original carb (1 owner car so I know for sure). The “new” used carb which is also a pierburg 2e3 I removed from another skoda favorit that was sitting in a junkyard after being in an accident, I assumed it was running good before the accident and the adjustment was correct so I just gave it a good clean inside and installed it on my car and it felt much better than my old carb. I will reduce the fast idle speed and upload pictures of the plugs once I have some time (I have an important job interview next week), hopefully next weekend and will give you an update. I also tried removing the distributor vacuum line about a week ago and it didn’t make any change. When rotating the idle mixture screw counter clockwise it should increase or decrease the fuel flow? and If its running too rich when cold can it stall the engine after a couple of minutes? Because the stall happens instantly, it doesn’t show any signs of it about to stall and doesnt lower the rpm gradually.

Hi, thank you for responding. - About my previous topic, I had 2 issues, one was “fixed” by replacing the carb to the current one I have on the car, the other still remains even after the carb replacement (this topic). - I have a used pierburg 2e3, cleaned it from the inside, new accelerator pump, didn’t need any tuning because it runs great. - Havent touched the idle screws of the carb since it runs great and with the previous carb I had the same issue so I thought it wasn’t the carb causing it. - The carb has an earth connection to the engine and the engine is connected with a good earth strap to the chassis. - I have checked the solenoid, it gets constant 12v (with ignition on) and has good earth connection. - Fast idle is set to around 1800+/- rpm, choke closes and opens as it should with temp. - The exhaust smells like an old car’s exhaust, doesn’t smell really bad or makes me ill, can I check the spark plugs after it stalls and if they are too wet from fuel it means that its too rich? - The car starts like it should on cold starts, fast idles on 1800+/- rpm, choke partially closed and slowly opens, feels like a normal car for 2 minutes but after that it stalls then starts for a few seconds then stalls again and wont even start at all for about 10 minutes, even if I hold the throttle when it runs it stalls, like I cant control it. After about 10 minutes it starts and drives great like nothing happened, and after I finish my drive and turn it off and let it sit for less than 5-6 hours it starts up like a champ. I tried playing with the choke flap and held it on different positions, tried adjusting the choke, tried disconnecting the choke and even removed the flap completely, tried starting with no fast idle. No matter what I do I cant prevent it from stalling after 2 minutes on cold starts. Because I replaced the carb (to the current one I told about in the beginning) and tried all of the stuff I said again and this still happens I thought on moving to ignition stuff. I hope this information helps you, and again thank you for helping.

Hello wise people of the internet. My Favorit has an issue that if I start it after sitting for more than 5-6 hours it will start normally but after 2 minutes it will stall and wont start for almost 10 minutes, after that it runs and drives great like nothing happened. I have replaced the carb, choke and distributor and still this happens. Even deleted the choke completely (in my warmer climate its not needed so much) with no change, checked for spark and was getting spark (cant tell if weak or not). Thinking about changing the ignition module and coil with hopes that it will help. No mechanic would have a look on it because no one works on older cars here so Im on my own. If anyone can give their opinion on this please feel free to do so.

Hi everyone I own a 1993 Skoda Favorit (1.3 carb), 2nd hand with 117000 kilometers. I rebuilt the carb a month ago and went to a shop to tune it, ever since then the car doesnt respond well when it gets to operating temperature, it idles rough at around 700 rpm and when i try to rev it up it chokes on the first second and then revs up, but when the engine is cold it responds perfectly, instantly revs up and idles smoothly. I tried cleaning the carb again, replacing the spark plugs and the carb mount. I checked for vacuum leaks when its hot but could find any (I'm not an expert so maybe I missed something), went to the guy that tuned the carb and after examining it he said that it needs to be replaced but the carb worked great before I rebuilt it (if it aint broke dont fix it...). I'm probably going to check with other mechanics (because I dont believe that the carb cant be fixed) but before I do maybe someone here has an idea of what the problem is, if so feel free to give your opinion.