Light981

Ok, so for further updates with new mechanic number 6: We took it to a new mechanic, who was apparently the first to check if combustion gases were actually getting into the expansion tank; we got that color change test kit, and it stayed blue. Next the mechanic first bypassed the EGR cooler. I drove the car for about five minutes, but the expansion tank immediately started filling with air and pressurising again. I drove it back, and he kept the car until the following day. He then also bypassed the water-cooled charge-air cooler integrated into the intake manifold, which is the large metal unit that takes the compressed air coming from the turbocharger. With both the EGR cooler and the charge-air cooler bypassed, the expansion tank is now holding coolant normally and, so far, is no longer filling with air.

I'm interested in the part, but I can't DM you directly.

2014 Skoda Octavia Mk3 2.0 TDI – Coolant Loss / Possible EGR Cooler and/or Head Gasket Hi all, I’m looking for some advice regarding an ongoing cooling-system problem with a 2014 Skoda Octavia Mk3 2.0 TDI, 6-speed manual, with roughly 300,000 km. I bought the car on 25 July 2026. It drove reasonably well initially, but after a little over a week the coolant warning came on and I found that the coolant level had dropped. Sometimes I just release the presher in the expantion tank and the coolent comes bubbling back, after about 20-80km of driving the next day I find that the the tank needs to be topped back up. So far, the following has been done: Coolant/antifreeze was replaced and the system was checked. The water pump was subsequently replaced after it was suspected of being faulty. Despite the new water pump, the coolant problem continued. Several mechanics have looked at the car. The main possibilities suggested have been either a head-gasket problem and/or a faulty EGR cooler. Most recently, a mechanic carried out a cooling-system pressure test. The tester was left connected for essentially the whole day and the system did not lose pressure. Because of that, the mechanic could not conclusively say whether the problem was the head gasket or EGR cooler and did not charge me for the diagnostic. One mechanic has verbally stated that both the ERG and the Head Gasket have failed. But would not give me a hard quote for how much the repairs would cost. The strange part is that the car can apparently hold pressure during a static pressure test, but it is still losing/using coolant when driven. At the moment I’m trying to work out the best way to distinguish between an EGR cooler leaking internally and a combustion/head-gasket-related problem before spending a large amount of money replacing parts. I’d particularly appreciate advice on: Whether an EGR cooler failure on the 2.0 TDI can cause coolant loss while still passing a normal cooling-system pressure test. The best way of testing the EGR cooler specifically. Whether there are any particular 2.0 TDI coolant-system faults I should be checking before condemning the head gasket. Whether there is any value in doing compression or leak-down testing on the engine in this situation. (Finding a mechanic willing/able to do this test has been next to impossible in my neck of the woods.) Are there any known signs that would distinguish an EGR cooler leak from a head-gasket failure on these engines? The engine otherwise runs and drives, and the most recent pressure test showing no pressure loss has left us without a clear diagnosis. One mechanic has suggested trying Steel Seal/head-gasket sealer to see whether it changes the symptoms, but I’m hesitant to put any type of sealing product into the cooling system before properly identifying the fault - since the car is legally under warranty. Any advice from people familiar with the Mk3 Octavia 2.0 TDI would be greatly appreciated, particularly if you have encountered a similar coolant-loss problem. Thanks.

Turns out this add was worse than that, from what I can tell it was a flat out scam; the seller provided fraudulent maintenance reports. Real Mechanic, fake invoices. Called up the garage and the owner was not pleased and planed to call law enforcement over it.

I am considering a 2014 Skoda Octavia Combi 1.6 TDI manual with 196,000 km, advertised for €4,000. It has recently passed the Irish NCT and is valid until July 2027, with road tax paid until August 2026. The seller claims it is in excellent condition and recently received around €2,500 of work, including a timing-belt kit, water pump, clutch, four injectors, suspension servicing, tyres, brake pads, fluids, filters and engine oil, with invoices available. Before arranging an inspection, I would appreciate advice on the main problems to look for at this mileage, how believable the specification and repair claims sound, and whether there are any particular engine, gearbox, DPF, EGR, turbo, injector or electrical issues I should consider. Here is the description, is there anything here that seems like a red flag? I'm just looking for a reliable car at the lowest possible price including running costs. "Description For sale is a 2014 Skoda Octavia Combi 1.6 TDI manual. The car is in excellent mechanical and cosmetic condition, fully serviced and ready to drive away. No money needs to be spent on the vehicle 2014 1.6 TDI Diesel Manual 196,000 km NCT until July 2027 Road Tax until August 2026 Road Tax: €180 per year Average fuel consumption: 5.5L/100km Approximately 3,000 km ago, the car received a full service worth around €2,500. Fully serviced suspension. 4 brand new tyres. New brake pads. New timing belt kit. New water pump. Brand new clutch. All four injectors replaced. New injector. Fresh engine oil. All filters replaced. All fluids replaced. All work is supported by invoices and receipts, which will be provided to the new owner. Driving Mode Selection: Sport, Eco, Comfort, Comfort+ and Normal. Large touchscreen infotainment system. Satellite Navigation. Apple CarPlay. Bluetooth. AUX. USB connectivity. Dual-zone climate control. Cruise control. Front and rear parking sensors. Automatic headlights. Rain sensor. Heated mirrors. Full electric package. Electric mirrors. Tow bar. Alloy wheels in excellent condition. Roof rails. Large family-size boot. The car drives perfectly. Engine, gearbox, clutch and suspension are all in excellent condition. Interior is clean and well looked after, while the bodywork is in very good condition. This is a high-specification model with selectable driving modes, including Sport, Eco and Comfort, offering a more enjoyable and versatile driving experience. A reliable, economical and spacious family estate with low running costs. No investment required – simply get in and drive. Any inspection is welcome. Test drives are welcome. " I pulled whatever history I could, the car was a write off in 2017 - Class C, so according to the insurgence company it was cheaper to replace than repair. It was then imported to Ireland in the same year and driven ever since. The car has a few scratches on the front and back bumper, but I'm not picky about cosmetics. One thing that does bother me about the listing is that they clam that the car has Regenerative braking, and they talk about "selectable driving modes" but it is a manual gear box so I don't see how that works.

Ok, so it’s been a while, but I’ve managed to get through a lot: High beams not working – I just got the stalk replaced today and now the high beams are working, and the turn signal is working too. (New problem, though – the cruise control no longer works. But I’ve got light now and will be doing some troubleshooting to see if I can find the problem.) Fog lights not turning on – The bulbs and the two new housings were busted up. They both work perfectly now. I’ve not messed with VCDS. We’ve gotten around the auto-locking by having a dumb spare key (no chip) to unlock the car if it auto-locks. By the way, it auto-locks when parked and the key is in the ignition – no motion required. I’m inclined to think it is the microswitch, as Breezy_Pete suggested, since when I took apart the door someone had already been in there, cut the wire for controlling the passenger window, broken both speakers, and unplugged the mirror control. I’ve cleaned that up a bit, but I’m still not sure about the auto-locking.

Hello, I recently acquired a new Fabia MK1, and it has several electrical problems. I’m a complete newbie when it comes to DIY car repairs (or any car repair, for that matter), and I’m not entirely sure how to perform detailed surveys on this website just yet. I apologize if this has already been covered elsewhere. Here’s the list of known electrical issues: High beams not working The high beams do not turn on when the lever on the steering column is pressed. I checked all the fuses in the side compartment with a multimeter (continuity check) and confirmed that all the slots with contacts were populated. Two fuses were fried, one related to the radio. The high beam indicator on the dashboard does not light up when the lever is depressed. Both bulbs have been replaced. Fog lights not turning on Both dashboard lights turn on when the fog light dial is pulled out, but the fog lights themselves don’t work. Constant automatic locking The car locks itself automatically: After 10-20 seconds of driving After being parked for over a minute (this led to me locking the keys inside, and I had to break the small back window to regain entry). Fortunately, it seems like a cheap part to replace. The driver-side unlock button does not work. Both the driver and passenger doors look like someone may have attempted to work on them before. The car appears to have an auto-locking feature that’s difficult to disable, and it’s even locked one of my parents inside without the ability to escape. My main questions: Is there a dedicated relay for the high beams on the Fabia MK1? 1.1. If not, has anyone had this problem before, and if so, what was the remedy? 1.2. Does the car have a Body Control Module (BCM)? If so, where can I get a replacement? I’m not sure where to start with the fog lights. Are they related to the headlights at all (besides sharing a common ground)? Is there a way to safely disable the auto-locking feature? Are there any recommended OBD scanners for diagnosing these issues? I don’t have a good OBD II scanner and am not sure if this car requires a specialized one. I currently use a “mucar OBD2 Scanner Universal OBD II code reader.” Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading!

About Me: Hi there! I’m an electronics engineering student doing my best to keep an old car on the road for a few more years. About My Car: I drive a 2005 Škoda Fabia 6Y5 1.4 TDI 75 CV / 55 KW Diesel with 144,000 km on the clock. It’s been well-loved, with the dual mass flywheel replaced at 120,000 km and a fresh timing belt recently installed. I chose this car for its durability, great gas mileage, and low maintenance costs—practicality all the way! It seems to have had a few bumps along the way—there’s evidence of one fender bender that required a headlight replacement and a couple more that pushed in the side wings. The bodywork looks manageable, though the window washer reservoir will need replacing since it leaks when filled over halfway. Electronics: Here’s where things get interesting (and tricky)—the electronics are questionable, which is the main reason I made an account to say hello!