Joja2k

Also, one more question. I have been searching for hours on the internet and am not succesfull. But how exactly do I adjust the carburettor mixture screw and the carb idle speed screw? (without a vacuum gauge)

The only thing I don't get here is where should i set the static timing, to 0 or to 5 (before starting the engine (since the specs say "5 +- 2 BTDC"))

What about the "vacuum advance" that the manual is mentioning. How do I set that? Here are the manual images: https://postimg.cc/XB3pYQQQ Album — PostimagesAlbum — Postimages

If I got this correct, the procedure on setting the timing goes something like this; Locate the timing pulley on the timing chain cover. Mark the V notch with white paint and set it to 0. Connect the timing light. Start the car and let it get to it's operating temperature. Disconnect vacuum tube from the distributor. Unscrew the distributor retaining bolt just enough sou you can rotate it. Point the timing light to the pulley and "fire" the timing light at it. If the timing is above 5 +- 2 (7) Degrees rotate the distributor (retard the timing), if the timing is below 5 +- 2 (3) Degrees rotate the distributor (advance the timing). The timing should now be set correctly. Tighten the distributor retaining bolt. Connect the distributor vacuum tube. Adjust mixture screw on the carb untill you get a smooth idle. Is this procedure correct? Ps. The Haynes skoda favorit 89-92 book says the timing should be 5 +- 2 degrees at 725 rpm (for my 136 engine). Cheers!

Hello again, Today I bought a timing light, this one; https://www.kroftools.com/en/regulation-and-test/digital-display-timing-light_p1781.html Should be more than enough. I'm gonna try to set the timing today or tomorrow and will keep you updated. Sorry for not responding but I didn't have any time to work on the car as I was harvesting honey with my brother. Cheers! Is the procedure the same with the timing light?

Valve clearances have been checked and adjusted some 2000 km ago by myself to exact factory spec, also if by module you mean the ignition amplifier (module), no it is the factory one in the car, even though i bought a new one. Cheers!

The noise is coming from somewhere between the distributor and the no.1 cylinder (that's how it sounds)

Quick new update, after restarting the car, there is now noise coming from the engine bay, but I can't decide if it sounds like rattling, knocking or pinking.

Hello again, I have refitted the old distributor in and set the ignition timing approximately (I don't have a timing light) And now there's no more jumping on the tachometer so far. The car is working as it should. That makes me suspect bad new distributor quality. Your thoughts? Also if anyone knows how can I set the distributor timing without the timing light, that would be very helpfull? Ps. The way I have approx set the distributor timing is. I turned the motor to 5 Degrees on the pulley, fitted the distributor in and turned on the car. The car was working on approx 400 to 500 RPMs. then I turned the distributor counterclockwise until the RPMs rose up to about 1000 on the tachometer (I have noticed that when the car is off the tachomter sits at some 200 to 250 RPMs on the clock, so I figured that when in motion 1000 RPMs on the tachometer should be about 800 more or less irl) then I tightened the distributor and that's it. Cheers!

It's not the seatbelt creaking, but the steering wheel as I wrote in the post. The base of it is rubbing against the plastic housing, so I need to lube the steering wheel. The new parts look the same, but there's no indication on them what make they are. The one weird thing comes to mind though. The new distributor does not have any markings on it (ie where you line it up so that you know that it's gonna hit the no 1 tdc) I honestly thought about the distributor and I think that my neighbour, who set it up for me did it wrong, I'm gonna check that later today. The engine sits anywhere from 900 to 1200 RPM, but usually at 1000 RPM (I lowered the RPMs on the carb, but when we went lower than approx 900RPM the engine would start "dying" So I figured that the tachometer is ****ed. The RPMs were lowered as much to the spec as I could by my ear (800 +- 50 RPM) So I think the tachometer is giving the wrong reading. After changing the distributor the RPMs kicked up by like 100 though (I think the distributor timing is off). That red thing around the ignition barrel is like an airplane protection clip? Like they have in the cockpits. The engine sounds like it's misfiring, there's a lot of push and pull, power loss (ie the car is not really going faster when the counter flicks) and hesitation (also on the gas pedal there is a lot of movement backwards and forwards (like it's jittering). Could the incorrect distributor timing cause misfiring and all of this nonsense that's happening with the car? Cheers!

Yeah, I do have a cable coming from the negative pole of the battery to the car's body and it's a clean connection. (I was confused because I thought "engine strap" should come out of the engine lol) The throttle body is 100% clean (I cleaned it) All of the vacuum hoses were inspected and none of them have holes and/or are broken, cracked anywhere. Those that were were changed by me. Cheers

Here are the links; PLEASE NOTE: the screeching that is heard in both of the videos is coming from the steering wheel, the base needs to be lubed! New parts fitted: Also check the video description! Old parts refitted: Also check the video description! Again as I said I have checked all of the wiring and it looks good, the engine does not have an earth strap (or at least I'm dumb because i cannot find it). All of the connections are secure and clean (I cleaned them). I would say that overall the car is behaving better with the old parts refitted but the problem persists! Any suggestions? Cheers!

Hello again, After testing the vehicle on road with both the new parts fitted and the old parts refitted. I can say that the car behaves better with the old parts (at least it is more consistent per se). Any suggestions? Videos of the rides coming soon, just need to upload them Cheers!

In short, the symptoms so far are; misfiring in the higher RPM's and the tachometer going crazy in the higher RPM's (above 2500). Could it be an engine vacuum leak? Cheers!

Hello everyone, As of today the only thing I haven't changed is the connection to the board itself. I have checked all of the cables a couple of times and they are fine (not damaged anywhere). I have changed the HT leads, the ignition amplifier and the ignition coil. After all of those changes the tachometer is working a lot sharper (it was kinda sluggish before). But the problem still persists (but not in as it was before, the tachometer jumps here and there again but only when I let go of the throttle). I haven't had the chance to test it while driving the car yet. But yesterday before the changes I was driving the car and in the higher RPM's when the tachometer began going crazy, the engine started to behave like it was misfiring (there was a lot of push and pull in the higher RPMs and it also felt like something was blocking (restricting) the engine at the same time). I will test the car in motion today and leave the info later on. Honestly, if it's not the connection to the board itself i don't know what else it could be? Cheers!

Hello everyone, After testing and probing I decided to change all of the contacts for the tachometer, the "condition" improved so to speak. The tachometer now only goes wild at 3500 RPM (it was going wild at 2000-2500 RPM before changing the contacts) I have come to the conclusion that it's either the ignition amplifier (module) or the tachometer itself. Any thoughts? Ps. As I have understood the tachometer is getting an impulse from the ignition coil to read the rotations of the engine and it is then connected to the ignition amplifier. So given that it could also be a "chain reaction" (meaning that both the ignition coil and the ignition amplifier are at fault). I have checked the spark plugs and the ht leads, both were replaced (and are good) and are fresh (by the previous owner last year, but I have replaced the spark plugs myself after buying the car) Cheers!

Right, recently I have changed the distributor since the old one was on it's last legs. The new distributor is a NOS Bosch unit, so I have no doubts about bad part quality. After I replaced the distributor I also checked that it was in phase and within it's margins 5 +- 2 degrees. The same day that I changed the distributor the tachometer went nuts, but not immediately, a few hours later. And honestly the only thing that I can remember about the tachometer being suspicious was that before the distributor change, here and there it would jump above 4000 RPM during gear shift, but that's about it, actually it did get stuck at around 3000 RPM when I was driving the car and in higher RPM. Could the distributor change have anything to do with this? So far my thoughts are that it might be the ignition amplifier (module). Cheers!

Hello everyone, as the title itself says. The tachometer on my Favorit started going crazy but I can't see where the problem lies. Here are a few words on the issue; When the car is idling and you press the throttle everything seems fine until the engine reaches some 2500 RPM, the tachometer then jumps all the way to 8000 RPM and bounces back. While driving the car every time I shift gears the tachometer bounces up and down to about 3500 RPM (I shift gears anywhere from 2000 to 2500 RPM) How can I fix this issue? Any help is valuable! Cheers

Hello again, after a long time of trying everything that I could again and again. I ordered replacement gaskets for the carburettor together with the new plastic spacer from vika (the finish of the spacer plate was pretty bad) I sanded it down to be flat, sealed it up with reinzosil and a new gasket and left it to cure for 24 hours straight. Then I started up the car and it pretty much worked as it should, a couple of days later a started to notice a strong petrol scent in the cabin, so I took the carb out again and it turned up to be the float needle, so i replaced it and when I put the carb back together and started the car it started to behave like it had a vacuum leak again (I was pulling my hair out at this point (needles to say I was pretty ****ed)) So anyway I improvised a smoke machine but when I used it there was absolutely no smoke coming out of anywhere (meaning the seal was good) So I decided to screw the mixture screw all the way in, but the car kept running (when I screwed in the mixture screw I counted as to how many turns I made) And after a couple of minutes of runing like it had a vacuum leak, I returned the mixture screw back to it's position and voila! The car somehow started running buttery smooth. I said to myself: "**** it, that's it! It works!!" . And so I decided to close it up and not touch it again. And still today, the car is running smoothly! Cheers!

Can you please pinpoint to those posts? Cheers!

Hello everyone, As the post says, I think I'm having a carburettor issue (Vacuum leak??), at least that where everything is pointing to. Let me give you a bit of a background. So I bought a Škoda Favorit 136L past summer, and it wasn't working correctly, so me and my friend decided to try and fix it. We bought a lot of parts for it and fixed almost all of the issues that it had. We changed back shock absorbers, timing chain, brake oil, transmission oil, carter gasket, spark plugs, alternator, starter motor, oil, antifreeze, adjusted the valves etc... you get the point (almost everything was replaced) When I first bought the car the carburettor wasn't adjusted correctly, but at the time we didn't know what was the exact issues so we just increased the idle speed on the careburettor (because the car was stalling in idle). Now after months of work on the car we decided to take the careburettor out and clean it. We did so and since we placed it back we are having an issue with the carb itself constantly and we can't understand what the issue is. At first we thought it might be the ht leads and the distributor timing, so we checked that out (distributor was slightly out of spec, so we fixed it), but the car continued to behave weirdly: The car is behaving very similarly to this one in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VZBIrH_F-o . Now as RicardoM suggested in this post: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/367304-skoda-favorit-pierburg-puzzle/ we used Reinzosil with gaskets (left it 24 hours to dry before staring the engine up (a couple of times)), we also unplugged the 1-pin connector that feeds the carburetor shutoff valve (and the car immediately stalled), also tried to screw in the mixture screw all the way but the issue remains the same, now I'm kinda crazy at this point because we basically tried everything, yet the car is still not working properly (as I wrote above, almost everything was replaced and the car was working more or less fine before we took the careburettor off and cleaned it. Are there any suggestions? We now think that maybe the mixture screw is off and potentially the idle speed screw as well (when ever we were turning those screws we returned them back to the position that they were in) Any help we can get will be much appreciated.