NewTimer

Thanks for the reply guys! Yeah I’ve had similar experiences regarding bodges, current Mk1 VRS had all the warning lights plugged with putty when I bought it 🤣 The TDI is something I’d be interested in. Good to hear both sides of the argument. Service history is definitely a must, I’ll just be wary if buying something with a replaced turbo!

All, I’ve trawled through all the very helpful posts but I’d like you to either talk me in or out of buying a high(ish) mileage MK3 TDI VRS. Currently own a MK1 Octavia VRS which is sitting on 135k quite happily. Still going strong. I do however want something more economical to do about 15-18k a year on Motorways alongside the MK1. I have a budget of between 6-8 thousand. For that price, there’s plenty of cosmetically good looking examples between 100- 140k miles. High mileage doesn’t put me off, providing the DSG has been serviced, possibly new flywheel etc and all associated servicing. Before I pull the trigger, am I going to be playing a dangerous game? I’m not familiar with the 2.0 TDI!! Cheers!

In the end it was definitely the thermostat. Quick and easy fix, changed the car completely!

Yeah, I’d like to know what it is that’s making people just scrap/break them. Perhaps just wanting something modern or finding it too expensive to put through an MOT.

Seems to be becoming more the case in the UK now as well. Rarely see another VRS. I always check the MOT database for ones I see in images and they always seem to be off-road now, shame.

Second the above, I bought some parts off him this week for one he has advertised for breaking on eBay. There’s quite a few on eBay at the moment to be fair for breaking.

All sorted!! Thermostat has completely resolved the issue. Sits at 90 now, solid as a rock no issues. Runs smooth as and with a handful of bushes replaced it’s a hoot. Haven’t properly given it the beans since I bought it because of it not being up to temperature, so now that I can it’s putting a big smile on my face. I can finally move on to the bodywork. 128k, 05 plate. Plan to keep it on the road for many years to come! Thanks for all the replies. I’ll post a thread at some point with the full journey.

Hopefully you’re right @Alasdair1, I can’t see any evidence of the car having had a new thermostat at any point so seems like the next best step. As for the fans, I’ll have to do a check myself to be fair and have a listen. I haven’t noticed them coming on from cold, not unless the air con has been left on. Did you ever find a resolution to your issue?

Thanks for the suggestion! Can't see any corrosion so going to go ahead and replace the thermostat and go from there. Hopefully this can get sorted, not really wanting to push the car at all without it being a solid 90.

Thanks for the reply! Took the car out today after doing a bleed. Doing some short drives around and about I managed to get it up to around 80, but this took around 20 minutes worth of driving. Most of the roads by me are long country lanes, national limit. The moment I started going down those at the speed limit the temp would drop to around 60/70. Still the same really, short journeys or at the lights and the temp will creep up. The moment you’re on the move at a decent pace or on motorways, it will drop right down. MPG is still around 40 and there’s no running issues. Thanks again!

All, I’ve seen some posts on this previously and just wanted to get some thoughts as a good decade has passed since some of the previous posts were made. I’ve got a recurring code, P1296, throwing an EML. I’ve replaced the CTS twice, one with an off brand crap one which did not resolve and secondly with a genuine. Still no fix. The car basically doesn’t get up to 90. When driving, if you’re doing short journeys or sitting in traffic it might creep up close to 90 or even sit at 90 at the lights. Never goes past 90, never overheats. The moment you start driving, the temp drops again and will sit around 70. During my commute which is mostly motorway, I can do a full 45 minutes worth of driving and the car won’t get beyond 60. Due to the horrific pinch clips on the vacuum lines teamed with me being fairly lazy, I’ve asked the VW specialist I use to replace the stat along with some other suspension work next week. They did clear this EML for me a couple of weeks ago, took it for a drive and said the stat seemed to be opening when it should, fans were coming on when they should etc. They don’t think a stat would throw this error but we’ve agreed to replace it and continue investigating if issue still persists. In my opinion, I think the stat is opening too early on motorway drives. After a long drive where the car should be up to temp, put the heater on 25 and it will be luke warm. I’m no expert, would love to know other people’s thoughts. Cheers!

Yeah you’re absolutely right! Ordered some from a breaker on eBay and they’re looking much better now, hug the frame more! All sorted!

All, Any ideas on where best to get OEM or equivalent window trims? The window trims on my VRS are now looking a bit tatty. I’d be ideally looking to replace the full external window trims surrounding both windows drivers and passenger side. Cannot seem to find part numbers anywhere!

Thank you both for your replies! Apologies for the delay in responding. I took the cluster out in full and removed the Speedo film. You were right @Alasdair1 in that the needles came off with some gentle prying. I dug out all of the ‘white tack’ that had been stuffed down the EML light port, inspired by the thoughts of having to spend significant time and money re-coding a new cluster if I didn’t make the effort. EML light now works, comes on and goes off with ignition. I suspect someone has done this previously to get through a cheeky sale or MOT. Easy enough to remove the cluster though!

Hi all, I am a complete newbie to the world of Skoda but I’ve fulfilled a childhood dream and bought a very well maintained Mk1 VRS for the grand total of £1800. It might have been mentioned in other topics but I just can’t find a definitive answer. My instrument cluster has no EML light when ignition is on. I suspected someone had possibly blanked it out in a previous life and upon removing the cluster today, someone has indeed siliconed the EML LED hole. (No codes from the OBD, don’t worry I have checked). My questions: How do you remove the Speedo needles on the Mk1, is it a spoon under the needle and pull job or is it a twist anti clockwise? If I were to replace with a new cluster from another Mk1 VRS, can this be recoded to work with my car using Vagcom or another such software? I’ve seen some people say yes and others say no. Cheers!