firejinx

Hi @Breezy_Pete Thanks for your reply. If I can replace the resonator I will but can you show me where it is. I Guess on the driver's window motor electrics board. Where can I buy the resonator? Or is it something I can find on old circuit boards? I have tons lying about. Cheers.

Hello Guys. I am helping my son restore a 2007 MK1 fabia. we have come across a issue with the front electric windows not working, and no matter how much ive searched i cannot come across anything to fix them. both windows used to work until the battery died, then nothing worked. we replaced with a new battery and still nothing. i checked the wiring and repaired most of the wiring in the A pillars on both sides, some were cut through and some questionable. now im finding the passenger front will work intermittet from the passenger door swich but not the drivers, bought and replaced drivers switch and still nothing. i took off the drivers window motor, opened it cleaned the contacts/brushes and tested it with 12v and it worked fine, put the electric board back on plug it back into the car and nothing!! no noise, clicking or anything. can i presume the board is dead? or is there a fix for them, all the joints look ok under the microscope and the capaciter doesnt look blown., i can solder if there is a fix. failing that a new or 2nd hand motor? i am waiting on a kkl and hex-2 cable and vcds so i can check the control moduel under the dash but thats probably weeks away as coming from china. is there anyone with a fix or suggestions. thanks.

@SilverTabby I'm glad you found the issue. My son's was the same it was intermittent. Now that one job down 100 more to do lol.

Hi Guys while looking at my sons mk1 fabia 1.2l 2007 i see that both front driveshafts are knackered, drivers is bent and passengers inner cv is siezed solid. this is a project car we bought so never been on the road yet. I am buying new ones and cannot see a definitive answer for the torque settings, especially for the 6 inner bolts where it bolts onto the gearbox side. does anyone have these settings please. TIA Matt

@SilverTabby I checked all that I could and couldn't see any issues with the wiring. In the end I bought a new door actuator from eBay. My son fitted it and it seems to be working fine now. Sorry can't be any more help. The door actuator was only about £20 so It was worth a try at that price. I might buy an original now I know that was the issue.

Thanks @Breezy_Pete I can get the 893E for just under £80 It's the 891F I can't find for love of money. As it's the low pressure pipe I might see if it is salvageable. Both pipes are heavily corroded so was just going to change them as I'm changing the rack. Neither of the pipes are leaking but still I wouldn't trust them without cleaning them up and checking from there. Worse case scenario would finding someone who can fabricate new ones from the old ones. Thanks again.

@Breezy_Pete I have found the high pressure one I believe on autodoc 6q242389e it's the last one in stock. Going from rack to pump. I can't find the low pressure one 6q2423891f rack to pump, anywhere and can't see anything that has an updated part number. The last 8 digits from the chassis are. 74150432 if that can help somewhat. Thanks

Thank you so much mike. I will have a look just now Thanks @Breezy_Pete there is only one number for the low pressure return which is easy to hopefully cross ref. There is 3 of the high pressure one tho all same number but each with a different letter at the end. I will have to look into that. I will head to autodoc again and use these numbers and hopefully I can find something. Thanks again 👍

Hi guys. Does anyone have the part numbers for a 2007 MK1 fabia 1.2 bme engine steering rack pipes. ?The 2 pictured in blue. I ordered some from Autodoc and they sent ones for a left hand drive instead of rhd. Pics of the RAC and pipes needed attached. Thanks

I've seen ignition barrel and key replacement for less than £20 with the key and chip in it and the barrel has the transponder on it I might just give that a try. It's a cheap test. I just wish I could find a actual barrel rebuild kit . I used to make up locks daily when I worked at ford. They came where you could build up a barrel to the key number. This was on the chubb and tibbe keys. However I can't see anything like that for the fabia.

Thanks. I had no idea where they were until now lol. I will have to make sure I get one with the smaller box then. Most I have seen don't come with that so thanks for pointing that out

Thanks mate. That would explain why they are selling everything at once. I am fairly sure if I match up the numbers on the parts it should be a straight swap more or less..worth a try anyway.

if i remeber right the key light on the dash does flash, i havent paid too much attention to it, im getting really frustrated with it lol. i would have thought the diagnostic would have shown a crank sensor problem if there is one, im not saying its not tho im no expert . regardless of what the issue is i still need to get a complete set of locks as one key isnt enough. can i ask if you know if i buy a 2nd hand ignition barrel and door locks with remote cental locking keys it is plug and play and engine will start, (presuming the car was all ok) or do i need extras like ecu, fuseboxes , modules etc. I can get ecu, ignition, doorlocks, 2 keys,etc for around £100ish. still way cheaper than getting a key cut and possibly a new door lock anyway as its siezed .

ita either 128k or 138k cant remember of the top of my head

Last week it was hit or miss when it started. It would crank but not start. I would leave it then go back later and it would start no problem and run fine. Now it's just crank no start. My thoughts were crankshaft position sensor amongst other things but something is telling me it's all to do with the key and immobilizer Fuel filter, plugs etc are all new. Done them first as no history in the last 5years . Coils seem ok on multimeter. Nothing untoward showing on diagnostic either. Only codes was for the power steering which I'm tackling in the next few days hopefully. Injectors firing all ok (when running). I'm just trying to eliminate what I can.

I would be telling a lie if I said yes or no that the switches light up or not. I will check it later when I get home. All the fuses are ok. I have checked them a few times as the numberplate bulbs kept blowing the fuse ..mainly.as someone had rapped the light in foil and it was touching the bodywork. Sorted now tho and the lights on chime also works now when the key is left in the ignition.

No the electric windows don't work neither does the central locking switch on the driver's door.

Hi Alisdair1 The key won't turn the door lock at all. I have put WD40 in it but the lock seems seized. Leaving the car unlocked so I can get in to work on it. The key won't start the car either now so I'm presuming the chip is fried or the receiver. Yes I replaced the battery as a matter of maintenance as it was a little weak to start with . Having to press numerous times to open and lock the doors. I've looked at the fabia keys on fleabay and all seems to show a rectangular key fob where I have a oval one. (Pic attached). Timpsons want £ 163 per key. Nearest store 40miles away Cheapest locksmith £184 per key. 70odd miles away. I think I'm going to have to buy 2nd hand bits. So what will I need?? Ignition barrel and keys. The chip receiver which I presume is connected to the barrel somewhere?? Door locks I see people selling the whole lot including ECU and I presume a matched fusebox of sorts and also the dashboard. Do I need all this or can I get away with just the ignition barrel and receiver and door locks? Thanks.

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/7m0721431-self-locking-ring-genuine-part-23595.html

Hi guys working to get a cheap fabia back on the road for my son and yesterday the remote central locking stopped working. The key wont work in the drivers door and is tempremantal in the ignition. I only have one key as well. My question is what do i need to get to replace the whole locking system on the car? obviously i need door locks and boot as well as ignition etc, but i dont know what i need as for immobilizer wise. I really need 2 keys as my son has a habbit of loosing them. i called VW today and they want just shy of £270 plus vat for 1 key to be cut which has to be sent to germany and will take around 2 to 3 weeks. £80 plus vat each to program the keys , half a deposit up front and the car for 2 days. the car wont be roadworthy for at least a year so out of luck there. my local timpsons want £280 per key to be cut and programmed and thats if they can do it they say. Do i need anything like ecu's , or something to read the immobilizer chip in the ignition what other cars have the same locks as the fabia that i might try get from.. at a push i can get someone with vagcom and i think epromm programmer or something to read the key and let me program it but i need some sort of cable for the laptop to do it. (cant remember what its called, laptop to obd cable anyway). but i still need to find fresh unprogrammed keyfobs to do that. Any help is appreciated. Tia

Thanks mate. Yes agreed a lot looks a bit brittle with ages and heat like you say, the more I'm looking then more I'm seeing that it has some sort of Nsf collision damage. Fairly new wishbone Drop links Radiator Burst CV boot Driveshaft only held into gearbox with 3 out of 6 bolts. Heaps of broken parts etc So it will take some time but I will get her on the road again.

@Breezy_Pete thanks. If your referring to the large brick looking thing then I may have found the issue. It is currently nearly in 2 prices hanging down. Not attached to anything. It looks like it has had a nasty hit against something. The car under tray and wheel arch cover are broken quite a bit. So I'm guessing someone has run over something at some point and damaged it. I will look up later tonight when I get home and get a replacement ordered and also fabricate a bracket as well as one for the ECU on the bulkhead. I'm trying to juggle work and the car. We are too busy to get the fabia in to get it welded and painted but it will all get done at some point

Thanks mate. That's one of the things I looked at right away. Thankfully all the original books came with the car which is unheard of. Regular services until about 2021 then I would say just forgotten about . COVID probably didn't help either Just got the v5 back today with my son being the 8th owner so a bit concerning there as to why so many owners.

I think there maybe some issues further up the wiring loom or a faulty fan. I can't see anything that's broken . I will get the multimeter out later this week and test the loom I bridged 2 +1 then 3+1 and got nothing with ignition off and on. The fan does spin freely manually tho. I did see another few issues while checking the switch. The 2 power steering pipes are almost corroded through and the pass front driveshaft is 1. Only held on with 3 bolts at the gearbox and 2 the outer CV joint has all but collapsed and the boot split. I have spent all afternoon searching for this power steering leak that the last owner said she had. I've checked the complete system and nothing although the pipes will soon burst. The rack gators are fine and no sign of a leak anywhere. She said she had to put about a ltr a week into the car and also bought a 2nd hand rack. All I needed to do was too up about 150ml of power steering fluid and bleed it and it seems to work fine. (Touch wood). I have a date for the water pump stuff coming 29th June so a little wait there. I do see it's a fairly new radiator on the car also. Thankfully it's all minor stuff to me and a good verity of repairs for my son for him to learn on.

It is a 1 fan radiator. The radiator which is attached to the fan is fairly new looking. Nice and shiney. Ok I have my injector back in and she is running now. I've switched on the AC and set to full cold. Although it could do with a recharge but works still. NO Fan whatsoever comes on regardless of it running for 20 mins. I checked the expansion bottle and water is recirculating in it . The top radiator hose is hot but the bottom is cold. I would say either air or a blockage of sludge. Especially with the amount of sludge in the expansion bottle . The water pump is quite noisy also . I have bought all that anyways so waiting to get from Germany. I will then try to flush the system and then fit new parts. I will buy a rad temp sensor also and try to eliminate all I can. I am going to get under the car later and try test the fan as I'm not sure it is working as the fuses all seem fine. I've just checked that fuses. No 6 has a fuse but nothing connected to it. I then have no 7 to eleven all fine . I will have to check the ratings of the fuses as I'm not quite sure they are whats in the picture. At 103°C measured with coolant temp sensor you're probably not quite hot enough to trigger full speed fan action based on coolant temperature, as the (dual) thermoswitch is at radiator outlet, so ought to be a fair bit cooler than cylinder head even if fan isn't working. A/C-mediated fan action is independent of coolant temperature, being controlled by refrigerant pressure instead. One or two rad fans?