fabiamk4man

Just checked the Skoda recall website and it tells me to contact the authorized dealer - obviously because there is something regarding this particular car. I contacted them by phone but they assured me that there is no recall for my chassis number and to ignore it.... I guess there is nothing else I can do.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003428227182.html#nav-review

WRONG – WRONG – WRONG.... In Greece we use the metric system so i have learned and become accustomed to measuring consumption in liters/100 km. When i was writing the above, knowing i was referring to UK readers, in prior i converted the consumption numbers to mpg via an online calculator. Just yesterday quite by accident i realized that there is a huge difference between the mpg they use in the USA (and the on line calculator was using) and the mpg you are use in the UK... That is why i was having such a hard time understanding how different the consumption numbers i read here are compared to mine... So, my corrected to UK mpg numbers are: - In the city (depending on the traffic conditions and with auto start-stop system mostly deactivated) about 44-47 mpg UK - On highways travelling with the cruise control set around 80-83m/h (about 130-135 km/h) i see about 48-50 mpg UK. I have seen that it can go much better with 15-20 m/h lower speed, but ... - So far the best consumption i manage on country roads with relaxed and "eco" driving which is around 62-64 mpg UK - and i don't see how it can go more economical than that..... All above based on trip computer Hoping now my consumptions numbers are making more sense than before...

I am not familiar with the trim levels. Mine is a 12/2022 STYLE edition with some additional extras. I bought it slight used 6 months ago and i don't know if the full led lights were part of the style edition or have been paid as extras. But they include the auto on/off function, the auto leveling system, and the corner lighting assist (not at the foglights but on the main Leds). And i have seen at the light menu that there is a configuration option for left or right driving (which i have never used). As i wrote, the combination is excellent

They are just awesome... Great "white" light with full road coverage in any situation. The darker the road the most you love them... Together with the auto leveling system, the corner lighting assistant, and the auto-on/off function you have great lights everytime without even touching a switch ever. High recommanded to my opinion

nta16 As i wrote, i almost always disable the function myself, so it's not that important for me to waste time, energy and constant searching in the hope of finding a solution - which may or may not exist. I wrote it to the forum just in case there was a simple and define answer from the community. I will follow your advice and charge the battery - not exclusively for this, anyway i have been doing it preventively for many years at least 2-3 times during every winter and even more often as the battery ages (that's why I have also purchased the charger long ago). But i believe that a safe conclusion will not be drawn since the malfunction occurs randomly and at inopportune moments at rare intervals of time, so i will never know if something i did or did not do played a role.

Αs i had predicted, today without me doing anything at all the start-stop system was working normally again. After i tested it 2-3 times and made sure it was working fine, i turned it off as usual. 😇 After 4-5 times it has done the same, i tend to believe that it has nothing to do with anything other than bugs in the software and/or its algorithm. P.S Seems to me that many of the modern digital features are not that smart as they think they are… I have the same bad opinion about the system that suggests gear changes that are driving the engine (which is not the most torquey below 2.000 rpm) at absurdly low rpms without taking into consideration either the car's load or the slope of the road, with the result that its suggestions are often laughable and possibly harmful….🙄

nta16 I own the car only for the past 6 months but at it's service history i can see that original battery has been replaced under warranty 15 months ago. Don't know the reason, but the fact remains that is a fairly new battery. Anyway, i have a CTEK charger so i will give it a full charge and see what happens. My guess is that regardless charging it will fix it's self randomly just as the previous times

Thanks for the info. I have absolutely no indication that the battery is weakening but i will have it in mind.

SKODA FABIA MK4 Style – DLAA engine – 6speed manual It has happened to me 3-4 times that the auto start-stop system does not activate with the relevant indicator on the dashboard coming on. This happening completely randomly and for no apparent reason. The same completely randomly and mysteriously works again... It doesn't really bothers me much since most of the time i disable it myself anyway, but it annoys me psychologically when something doesn't work properly even if i don't use it or need it. Any idea ?

For me, the main reason for rear disc brakes compared to drums is aesthetic. Rear disc brakes look much nicer when paired with beautiful aluminum wheels. My style edition MK4, which has rear disc brakes along with beatiful alloy wheels, looks much nicer than the basic versions i see on the road that have drum brakes and steel wheels with hubs. Functionally, i don't think they make any difference for 99% of users and cases.

I confirm that Fabia’s mk4 brakes (mine has rear disc brakes but don’t believe that it matters) in 1st contact it surprises with how hard and sharp brakes with barely reasonable/usual force on the pedal. Of course after a while you get used to it but in first contact or when you drive it after another car you always notice it and it takes a little driving time to adapt. I don't consider it a “problem” but it is something observable without me knowing or having bothered to find out what is causing it. Seems to me more like a choice of the vw engineers than anything else.

Mine is a Fabia mk4 Style - 110PS - DLAA engine - 6speed - December 2022.. . How can i be sure about ?

Because i'm also interested in the topic, i'm looking at both the VD700 https://www.anceltech.com/product/detail?id=1166651578459877376 and the VD500 https://www.anceltech.com/product/detail?id=1085346504295575552 and I don't see anywhere that it says they're not compatible with VAG after 2022. Where did you see that ?

@Evolution13 Only 3 months with the Fabia and I haven't had the chance to drive in very different weather conditions. Mostly dry with temperatures of 20-30 degrees Celsius. But I don't think it will make that much of a difference.

Fabia mk4 - 110hp – 6 speed manual. In city driving (start-stop system mostly deactivated) consumption is usually about 37-40 mpg. About the same as in the city i see when travelling at highway with the cruise control set at 80 m/hour. In country roads with relax and “eco” driving i manage the best results about 52-54 mpg. I can’t see how it can go better than this… All numbers based on what trip computer indicates

My Fabia mk4 is in extended warranty plan with “free” services that expires at late 2026. Until then all 3 until now lubricant services done at official Skoda dealer. I didn’t want to mess things up so i didn’t intervene at all and let them doing the changes with the Castrol 0w-20 they use (that’s they claim on the invoice). From the next change on (which will be at 10 months from now and around 35-37K km from new), i will be free to use any independent technician and any oil i will choose. Until then i have to decide if it will be a 0w-30, a 5w-30, or a 5w-40

Since we are talking about oils, i will tell you what i have conclude over the years and how i deal with the lubricant issue in all my cars – i consider it successful since for +35 years i have never had a failure that was indirectly or directly related to lubrication and all my cars had negligible/almost zero oil consumption even after 140-150k km. - Short oil change intervals regardless of what the manual says. I change my oil around 8-8,5k km (before full synthetic oils even lower). Mainly because that is how far each of my cars travels each year and i don’t want to keep the oil running in for more than a year. 3-4 times happened to travel near to 10k km in a year while there were also times when traveled below 7k km, but as a general rule and as an average i change the oil around 8-8,5k Km. Almost never above 10k Km and definitely once a year regardless of mileage. - I always use synthetic oils (for the last 20 years at least) that meet or exceed the manufacturer's requirements. I'm mainly talking about the specific class/spec of the oil that each manufacturer requires, while i adjust the viscosity to the climate conditions in which i live and drive (going for the higher recommended limit due to warm climate). In the case of MK4 It is the first time i consider to go for an even higher than the recommended viscosity because I believe that 0w-20 is way too thin (obvious to me just for consumption/emission reasons) and will affect the long-term engine’s life. - I always change the oil together with the filter from a manufacturer that is considered quality and reliable. - Whenever i can (meaning most of the times), i force the technician to remove the oil while the engine is hot and i insist on letting them drain as much as possible. Also, whenever i can i supply the oil and the filter to the technician who will be doing the change and i am present during the work to make sure everything is done properly. - Although my intervention is rarely needed, i monthly check preventively and always make sure the oil is at the maximum level or at least slightly below it. - In the few cases where i bought a brand new car (only 2 out of a total 11 cars), i had the first oil change at about 1,5K km regardless the manual said it wasn't necessary. - I change the gear oil to my manual transmissions at about 80k km point regardless they are referred as “lifetime” use. - I have never used oil additives, no matter how fashionable they are. My opinion is that anyone who follows such or a similar lubricant plan will have the best possible longevity and reliability results.

I will certainly wait another 10 months and 1 more oil change until the car is out of warranty. Until then i will stick with Castrol LL-IV 0w-20 that local Skoda dealers use (at least that they are writing at the invoice…). By the end of this period the Fabia from new will have total of 4 oil changes and about 35-38.000 km covered with the recommended 0w-20. But right after warranty expires and as mileage goes up i strongly believe i must change into something slight more viscous for better long term protection. I didn't know that there was a 0w-30 oil meeting VW 504 specifications. I thought there was only 5w-30. Been the case, 0w-30 sounds to me like a good alternative. As you mentioned i am serious thinking even to a C3 5w-40 which i was using for 6-7 years in my previous Fiat T-Jet with great results…

Because in my opinion, many of the choices made by manufacturers over the last 10 years have been made with the aim of achieving maximum economy and emissions, often at the expense of other parameters which in that case have to do with reliability and long-term durability. After all, what they care about is that the car comes out of the warranty unscathed, whether the engine will survive half the kilometers than it should and could is not concern them - perhaps they even seek it. That is why in recent years you see oils becoming thinner and the change intervals getting longer. Personally, living in a warm climate (which certainly to some extent affects the choice of oil viscocity) and wanting the best in terms of longevity, thinking about such a change (which is not miles away from what is recommended – the same engine basically called for 504 5w-30 a few years ago) is not unreasonable or unheard of – combined with the fact that such thinking seems to be supported by many experts in the field as reflected in dozens of discussions/videos/interviews/tests… Anyway, i still have almost 1 year until I decide whether to change or not

My 2023 1.0 tsi 110hp MK4 Fabia according to the sticker requires oil of the specified wv 508-509 0w-20 specifications. Because i live in a country with a warm climate (southern Greece - even in winter it very rarely drops below 5 degrees Celsius while in summer temperatures above 30 are daily), and since the warranty expires in 2026, i have had the idea to go back to the older specifications wv 504 5w-30 from now on (i have already used 2 times the specified 0W-20). I read a lot of bad things about the 0w -20 on the net and in general i see the prevailing opinion is that their use is mainly imposed for fuel economy/pollution reasons and that is not the best option for the long-term maintenance of the engine. What is your opinion ?

Can you send me a link where ?

I would like to ask where i can find a complete detailed maintenance program for the Fabia MK4- 1.0 TSI – 110ps - DLAA engine. I don't want the classic “ book for the 1 or 2 year service plan at the dealer” but a full/detailed list of what work is required in which kilometers or time passed (filters, liquids, spark plugs, belts, timing etc). Looking for something like the old school user manuals (i am posting screenshots from a Fiat Bravo T-Jet owners manual service plan that i previous owned for reference and for better understanding of what i am looking for) who were much more detailed and owner involving at the maintenance field. I want to know these things mainly because i like DIYing,and i want having control and decide for the maintenance work, without depending to what dealer says or what is trying to shell...

Too much discussion for almost no reason… Ever passenger vehicle I am aware of suggest around 2,1-2,3 bar for partial load with a slight increase of 0,3-0,5 bar in cases of full load (mainly increasing the rear tires). All above valid for “normal” size tires, for “normal “ cars, and for “normal” use. It’s the first time i see 2,5 bar as recommended “minimum” pressure in a normal passenger car and also is the first time ever i see a very high 3,4 bar as a recommended pressure in general. I already explained why this happens to my opinion, and after have driven the car under different situations and pressures i concluded that for a MK4 the best all around pressure is 2,2-2,3 bar when we take account all aspects of driving. But that’s only my opinion and everybody is free to drive his car in any pressure he likes…

Not much different as you may image. Specially from 2000 and up most higher tier superminis and almost all class c passenger cars were fitted from factory with 15 – 16 inch rims with tires of 185-195-205 width of 55/60 ratio and they weighed more or less the same as a today’s MK4 (most class c even more…). 4 of my previous passenger cars manufactured after 2000 (2 superminis and 2 class c) were no different than the 16 inch -195/55 of my current MK4 and in all of them the manual suggested 2,1 – 2,3 as optimal pressure (with a slight increase in full load cases).